MAP during cranking should be closer to 100kPa.

timing 7-15 degrees depending on what works best.

and given your stock injectors, i'd suggest almost doubling your cranking ms below about 30C. so at -10C, use like 130 for example.

 

I'll be following this as well. My adaptronic is plugged in but the car has sat for over 7 months untouched. Maybe i'll get time this weekend to do that.

 

Going to try this right now.

 

Doubled all the settings below 30* and played with the timing between 7-15* and still nothing. A couple stumbles and a big backfire, but no idle

 

When you get close, small changes can make a big difference... Going from 132 to 133 for example made a big difference in my starts at a certain temp.

 

I tried setting the enrichment from 120 (in steps of 1) to 150. Nothing really changed other than the smell of raw fuel and a couple massive backfires.

Is there anything else I may want to look for? When I revert to the stock ecu, everything is fine.

While cranking on the Adaptronic, it feels a lot rougher and the whole engine/car shakes and rattles. Is this indicative of anything? Flooding? I do a few cycles of cranking at WOT to clear any possible fuel.

My key light will sometimes come on in the gauge cluster, does this just happen if the engine fails to fire after x amount of revolutions?

So discouraging.... :(

 

Are you sure the MAP sensor is still getting a good reading?

 

I was wondering about the MAP sensor as well. My vacuum pump can go to 2inHG on the gauge, but when at that reading the MAP shows 29kPa

 

2inHg is almost no vacuum... most cars idle at closer to 16-22 inHg.

you sure you dont mean 20 inHg? cuz that's pretty close to 29kPa.

 

You'll find it will be this loud on the stock ECU if you ground F/P on the diagnostics connector.

This is just a guess but I think the stock ECU relies on existing pressure in the fuel system for starting, then fires up the fuel pump after. Grounding F/P will cause the fuel pump to run all the time, like it does on the Adaptronic.

 

You're correct, the pump gauge shows 20inHg.

Makes sense

 

is there something wrong with my ecu?

EDIT: rebooted the laptop a couple times and I was able to reflash the ecu. This is starting to get to me.

 

Ok, first set of spark plugs fouled . Not sure why I waited this long to check.

They're soaked in fuel and black. Gonna pick up some new ones this morning when stores open up.

 

OMG it runs! Got the new plugs in. I cheated and warmed it up on the OEM ecu. Flashed to V2.000 again and all is well. Now I have to wait for my LC-1 to get here to see what is really going on.

How on earth could the old plugs have gotten so bad



Takes a couple seconds to actually start from cranking

Notes to self:
cranking
MX-5 takes ages to start

additional idle tips
http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/i...hp?topic=232.0

 

What do you guys use for your max MAP setting? 5-10psi over the max boost you want to run? I'm planning to run no more than 15psi at the most, should I have my MAP sensor set to a max of 18psi so I can have more usable adjustment range on the tuning tables?

 

So I was in the garage trying to fine tune idle and crank. While I was doing the cranking fuel portion and trying to start it up I had thick grey smoke coming out of the intake filter/header area. I turned it off and went to my room to cry for a bit.

Any idea on what it was? Not familiar with the smell at all. It happened while the engine was trying to fire, but couldn't quite make it and was struggling at 250-300 rpms.

 

Damn... Everyone else's issues scary me from even installing mine. Good luck dgmorr. Hopefully someone else can help.

 

This happened to me as well, exact same scenario. I happened to notice the engine was running backwards (direction of pulley/belt movement reversed), I'm not shitting you.

 

You actually saw it move backwards? This was my first guess, but I was sitting in the car so I couldn't see it in time.

 

Ha...

I've seen model airplane engines do that, but never a real engine! Wow.