Do I need to get dyno tuning or is the autotune function reliable? I'm somewhat skeptical about it, but it was one of the main selling features for me.

 

It works to get it close, and then go into WARI and hand smooth the untuned cells between the tuned cells. It's pretty obvious. You can see the trend in fuel and make a pretty arc between the tuned cells.

After that I would log driving in an out of boost. Try to have smooth transitions. I also would try to hold acceleration to target each 20 kPa through the RPM band. So, go out and do a pull holding 80 kPa, then 100, and so on. After that I looked at the log and tried to peg high and low AFRs that hit cells and hand tune them. It takes some time but you can get it pretty quick. A couple of logged runs back and forth to the computer will get it pretty decent.

 

Thanks for the tips. I did a bit more of it today. I'm a little more reluctant to mess with the ignition map.

I'm only running off the WG spring which is about 7psi. I can't imagine what 10-12psi is going to feel like.

 

Can you guys critique my timing map? Should I be messing with the timing map first or the fuel?

I'm guessing I can add more timing under boost? I'm only going to be running up to 150kpa for a while until my larger injectors com in.
Also going to be using the stock rev limiter.

 

I never touched the stock timing map. There are gains to be had, but concentrate on fuel now. When you have a nice fuel map, then go to timing. It will be minor adjustments to fuel when you change timing.

 

And this is where all my fun went up in smoke. It appears that some make shift part was used to replace the circlip at the end of the turbine bushing which may or may not have lead to the eventual failure.

 

I'm having trouble picturing what that is. Part of the turbo I assume?

 

It looks like a bearing.

Have a great day
Jared

 

Yup, this is the turbine side bushing. I've got the rebuild kit on the way. I'm debating whether or not I should get a T28 compressor wheel for this or not.

 

Sorry that that happened. How was the car before it went up in smoke? Car looks good.

Have a great day,
Jared

 

The turbo has been smoking since day 1. I put on a DIY rivet restrictor in the oil line and it helped a little, but not by much. I've driven it to tune it up to about 12psi, but I stopped using it during the day because of the smoke. I got bored this past Sunday and decided to take it all apart.

I actually ended up breaking a bolt for the turbo in the manifold and I'm having trouble getting the manifold off the engine. It's gonna be hard times to get it back together.

 

I am sorry that it is beeing a pain in the ***. What was the power you were getting at 12psi? I bet it was a kick in the pants.

Have a great day,
Jared

 

Ah it's not a problem, I was planning to use this as an intermediate step into turbos but I really like how it makes power at low rpms.

I didn't dyno it yet, but I'm guessing around 200whp.

 

Anyone have any tips on how to get two of the inner lower manifold nuts out? My turbo manifold doesn't let me use a socket on these, only an open end wrench will fit. I have an oxyacetylene torch but I'd like to avoid this until the last resort. The nut is starting to round off. I've been spraying it with WD-40 these last two days. The reason I need it off is because one of the 4 bolts holing the turbo to the manifold broke, so I need to drill it out and tap it.

 

Try PB Blaster instead of WD-40 and you will wonder why you ever used WD-40. Also try just heating it and not torching it off

 

U can also try a reversed drill bit. If that is even what you would even call it. Good luck. Pictures of it might be of some help.

Have a great day,
Jared

 

PB Blaster is that much better eh? I'll give it a try. I think even propane might be hot enough, since I only mounted this about 2 to 3 months ago.

It's two of the nuts holding the manifold to the head that are stuck. I'll get pics up later.

 

I was able to get the broken stud out of the turbo flange on the manifold, but I couldn't get the lower nuts off the head to remove the manifold. I guess it will be ok as long as I don't ever have to remove the manifold. I am going to replace the 7 nuts that I can get off. What type of nut should I be using? Is it fine to use a Grade 8 zinc plated, or do I need something better?

Going to have to break out my oxyacetylene torch sooner or later, propane was not enough.

 

You actually trying to cut it off or just using the heat? Manifold bolts can suck.

Edit: and now for something constructive. Just use some kind of locking nut on it. 8.8 or 10.9 would be fine (I think those are the right grade numbers for metric). Off the top of my head, the size is 8mm-1.25

 

And after the rebuild, my turbo still smokes