Nordz

So I have MS3 pro that I ran stock tuned with provided aem Uego wideband, then added injectors and tuned then added complete MK turbo set up and drove. During this entire time the gauge and the computer read the same and correct AFRs. Right away I found out the stock clutch would not hold with the turbo, so I swapped in a Supermiata full face. Right away the uego would do a what I believe is a recalibrating. the gauge would show 111,222,333..999 U49 POO and then the actual AFR. I thought I have gotten oil on the sensor and so i removed the sensor and soaked in gasoline for 8 hrs then let dry. I also noticed the exhaust rattled against the subframe so I replaced the rubber exhaust hangers and added hose clamps to help from drooping. The obvious exhaust rattle was gone but I think I still get exhaust against subframe or car. My sensor is still recalibrating every time I rev the engine, at cruz the afr reads a steady number. So I am stumped.
SO my question is can a rattle cause the sensor to auto recalibrate? Can I beat my subframe or should I bend the exhaust to get rid of the rattle?
Is my sensor bad?
Thanks in advance.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Sensor is likely bad. AEM doesn't recalibrate from what I've heard.

And I've never heard of soaking a sensor in gasoline. Where did you get the idea that would be good?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Shoot me picture of where you think its hitting subframe? I assume you mean DP on the front subframe?

Occasionally the wideband sensors do go bad. Your seems like it happened super soon comparably. The AEM should not re-calibrate. I would give AEM tech support a call today and see what they say about it.

msmola2002

My AEM sensor went bad. It would go thru the startup routine, 111,222 etc and then p00, then sweep from 14.7 down to 10 AFR, swing back up and get faster and peg on 18 or 20. Bought a new sensor from ballenger and it's fine. For a 30-4110 I bought a SNSR-01042 which was 70 bucks in April 18.

Nordz

I called AEM and asked about my troubles. He said the only time the sensor is having troubles is when grounds or power sources are bad. I didnt think it was electrical because I had run it for so long without any problems. He also said AEM doesnt recommend cleaning the sensors, they either work or dont. Replace as necessary.
He also said that rattling should not affect the sensor as they run on race cars without troubles.

Six-I googled "how to clean an O2 sensor" and wiki how said to soak in gasoline. gas is a solvent so I thought it might work, worst case I still have to replace the sensor.
I am off to order a New LSU4.9. Will also check my electrical. They only thing I changed was I routed the sensor through the shifter boot, instead of the firewall.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I have never heard anyone recommend that. But then again I've never Googled it. If I was going to ever put anything on it to remove oil I would think denatured alcohol would be the ticket. But I didn't think they were able to be cleaned at all, just like the guy from AEM said.

Nordz

Update. I swapped out another LSU 4.9 sensor and had the same conditions. I retraced my wiring to see if I had a melted wire or loose connection. Turns Out the bolt that serves as my ground at the back of the head was getting loose. I re tightened and its all good. I must have loosened the bolt during my injector swap.
MORAL OF the STORY ALWAYS CHECK YOUR GROUNDS