Discuss

 

Coanda effect

 

I believe (and correct me if I'm wrong) that the cavity created by the device contains the vortices which allow the air flowing around the trailer to converge in a smoother way thus reducing drag. I think the Mythbusters episode about pickup truck MPGs in relation to the tailgate being up or down is about a similar effect.

 

Aerodynamics 101 - Tractor Trailer Aerodynamics | ATDynamics

 

super original. I know.
If anyone where to want these wing mounts. They are still programmed into the laser. They weld onto an Aluminum NB bumper

 

Thoughts on front splitter, vs. front wing, vs. large front canards/winglets e.g. Nemo Evo, for a hill climb/TT application?

Concerns:
-Front Splitter: Ground clearance, length of fiberglass nose/short frame rails will require a lot of extra weight/bracing to adequately support it. Previous front splitter with spill plates made the car very tail happy without shock/rear wing adjustment.

-Front wing: same support issues as above but may also impact the radiator inlet/cooling, considerable nose weight.

-Large front canards/winglets: Drag penalty, will require some additional support but not as difficult as the wing/splitter mounting, questionable as to how much front end downforce can be achieved with it (needs to offset COT wing with potential for rear tunnels/diffusers).


Any thoughts? Entire car is considerably lighter than it used to be, but much of what has been removed is nose weight.

Splitter with spill plates had the rear end very tail happy, and mounting in the new configuration will be much more difficult/heavier than previously. COT splitter with no spill plates will have the same mounting difficulties, and had limited impact on front end grip.

Full on front wing is an option, but will likely get heavy in a hurry, will be difficult to mount, and will likely be overkill without additional rear aero.

Huge front canards/winglets will likely be the easiest, but I'm not sure it will provide enough front end grip. Mounting a set of "mini wings" that I can mount on either side of the front end that are adjustable would probably be the second easiest option, but either of these would allow me to add a splitter later if need be to offset.

I can go any direction, but am starting from scratch essentially, and am torn...

 

Sounds like you're struggling to find rear grip.. But all your options sound lime they increase front grip..

Why not keep your splitter ans sills and increase rear aero?

 

I'm good on the rear grip. With the wing set dead neutral, and an air dam only, the front end was wandering all over the place even at lower speeds (under 110 mph). With the same setting and the monster splitter, the rear end was comparably loose. I could have added more rear wing angle to offset, but mounting a splitter of that size again will add a lot of weight and mounting complexity issues, while losing precious ground clearance (especially if I run Mount Washington in 2015, which is part dirt/gravel). This is why I'm wondering if I should move to something other than a splitter.

Note that I wrecked with the previous splitter setup, hence the new nose. So, I'm starting from scratch on the front aero, other than the fiberglass nose which has an integral air dam.

 

Sounds like you need more rear aero. Aero is a balancing game you want as much downforce as you can get within the rules without making too much drag, but you want the distribution to be correct.

To answer your question I'd go with the front wing, its going to have less drag and be more adjustable.

 

redid the front end in hopes of more downforce and better aero

1/2 inch birch ply tucked into sub frame, hung with wire. heated up the abs and bent it in toward the radiator.




Don't mind the tape on the lip. I still need to coat the wood and finish up the radiator ducting.

I am hoping with more splitter area and a more attack I will get more front end downforce so i can raise the AOA on the wing and profit.

 

A little sneak peek

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Not sure if I'm supposed to be looking at the diffuser or the finish panel. Either way, what's going on in the finish panel area?

 

Faster trunk access?

 

I think hes just trying to represent PA with that Yuengling plate frame =D

 

It looks as though he has removed the area behind the finish panel.

 

Should remove the trunk floor and cut the bumper cover and run the diffuser all the way up to the trunk lid!

In for explanation of why that's cut out.

 

You are the closest to what I'm doing, so here is your prize

I want to try something new

I'm installing several Naca Ducts in the underbody and am currently working on making a close out panel. The close out panel will go from the hole in the trunk to the rear panel opening, where there is a low pressure area. The exhaust from the 5.3 litre V8 will come out on either side of the lic plate at a upward 10 deg angle.

 

So your running the exhaust threw the trunk? Or did I read that wrong?

 

Yes, he's running the exhaust through the trunk. Although I think it would work better if the exhaust is above the diffuser, where it will help extract more low pressure from the underside.

 

The only other think I was thinking was if he was running crazy ducting from inside the cabin and had the windows rolled down if that makes sense.