The $1500, running, driving, turbo Miata. Boosting like itís 1996! - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-16-2016, 11:35 AM   #61
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My friend is already half way throigh removing it to put the artech/greddy and the td04 on.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:37 AM   #62
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Yup. He was hoping to get to wait until after the move at the beginning of next month, but looks like Ratchet has other plans! More updates later when I can post pics.
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:58 PM   #63
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So some goodies showed up yesterday and my friend tossed them in. '13-'14 GT500 injectors and the FlowForce BYOI kit. Four for me, four for my friend. Total cost will be $190.5 for each of us (set of 8 injectors was $241 after shipping). I am super impressed with the flow force stuff.





While my friend was doing that he found the crack I posted above. So today...



And yeah, that manifold is done, done, done. Ebay manis? Don't do it kids! Explains why it wasn't spooling until 4500rpm...



Can anyone identify the turbo that came off? Sorry about the blurry pictures. I will scold my friend.



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Old 06-16-2016, 10:39 PM   #64
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Someone please correct me if im wrong, but im pretty sure the gt500 injectors have a split pattern and should be oriented so that the plug is pointing straight up.

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Old 06-16-2016, 10:43 PM   #65
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Someone please correct me if im wrong, but im pretty sure the gt500 injectors have a split pattern and should be oriented so that the plug is pointing straight up.

I am 98% positive that they do and I totally forgot to mention that to my friend. Thanks for the catch!
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:51 PM   #66
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Turbo, mani and downpipe are in with temporary hotside piping. He needs to have this movable out of his parents driveway by Friday, so he is reusing what he can.



The turbo tony downpipe is a lot longer than the one that was on the car and runs right into the resonator, meaning the whole exhaust system needs to move back.



I am sorry to admit that this solution was strongly considered for far longer than it should have been.



turns out the resonator is off a hyundia or a kia!

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Old 07-19-2016, 10:30 PM   #67
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Well, everything made it in and the car was driveable not long after the last post. My friend said it was running better than ever (probably the new injectors) and was working on tuning it. Two days later, it stalled out at a light and hyrdrolocked due to excess fuel. With a bunch of testing we concluded it would need to be towed home (though now with a clean spot under the hood from the fuel that gushed out the spark plug holes.)

Between work, a trip, and the move, my friend did not have much time to work on the car. He did a bunch of trouble shooting, checking the ignition system (it was obviously getting fuel!) and the timing as well as other things. Just yesterday, we stumbled uppon a know quirk of the Link ECU. Apparently, if the sensor ground gets interrupted, it decides that that means the engine needs all the fuel. All of it, as in 100% duty cycle. This certainly explains why there was so much fuel. After fixing that, and changing the fuel... I mean oil, out of the crank case, the car is back on the road and running better than ever. Very impressed with the GT500 injectors. I hope to get a chance to drive it tomorrow evening.

Sorry, no picture updates. I will try to remember to snag some when I next see the car! As a side note, I just got my adapter kit in the mail today and will be putting in my GT500's shortly.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:07 AM   #68
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Update! The car ran and drove all night. Between the two of us it seems we have managed to ammass enough knoledge to not blow it up yet. Y'all guys are awesome.

That said. Rubber plumbing bits don't like turbo heat.



We happend to be near a home depot so grabbed another and tried to reinforce it so it would last the evening (which it did).





Getting something made to take the heat is now top priority.

The car is making 140kpa, dead steady. It varries only between 138-140 once spooled.

It makes positive pressure starting at 2300rpm (115kpa or so) and makes the full 140 at 3400 or so. Way bettet than I was expecting. Also, at 2500 or so in 5th pulling up a hill, you can hear the turbo spin up and it is wonderful.

Next big step is a clutch and crank it up. (Though turning it up a bit may happen before then, see if the stocker can hold 8psi).

I have to say I am super impressed with the base maps on the Link. Starts, runs and drives reasonably (certainly not perfect) on the base map. A bit rich, but that is preferable.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:41 AM   #69
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You realize the heat is coming from the turbo and not just being inside the engine -- not sure what you expect to accomplish by wrapped your lunch in tin-foil...

stop being cheap and buy the correct coupler for the application. You're not installing a toilet.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:44 AM   #70
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Well aware. The aluminum tape was more to hold it together and strengthen it than for heat. That stuff is surpsingly strong. Goal was for it to last the night and possibly until my friend gets the parts to make something else.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:48 AM   #71
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So, just to clarify, you put a massive amount of duct tape inside the hot side plumbing? The same tube what sucks all the air your engine uses?

Seems legit. Duct tape has always held up great in my experience, hardly ever melts off grandma's old POS furnace every single year.

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Old 07-21-2016, 11:53 AM   #72
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So, just to clarify, you put a massive amount of duct tape inside the hot side plumbing? The same tube what sucks all the air your engine uses?

Seems legit. Duct tape has always held up great in my experience, hardly ever melts off grandma's old POS furnace every single year.
Aluminum HVAC tape (duct tape is the wrong thing for ducts!) And only on the inside parts that are held by the outlet of the turbo flange and intake pipeing (though we had to take the intake piping side off, since we couldn't stretch it enough to get it on). So only the first 3/4-1". Layring the inside where the air actually flows would have been stupid as it would get blown right out.

Although odds are the intercooler would have caught it had we actually been that stupid.

And for grabdma's furnace. Use the right tape and it will stop doing that. Duct tape is a brand, not a recomended use. HVAC tape is what you really want.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:30 PM   #73
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You're not a HVAC technician either...

besides, im sure a real one would reach for Mastic...
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:46 PM   #74
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You're not a HVAC technician either...

besides, im sure a real one would reach for Mastic...
Never claimed to be. But I do know duct tape is very much the wrong stuff. It will work for a temporary fix, but won't last forever.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:48 PM   #75
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It worked for your mom last night.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh SHNAP.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:55 PM   #76
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It worked for your mom last night.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh SHNAP.
Should be using bondage tape for that. Duct tape leaves an icky residue and gets caught in hair.

Try this stuff next time.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VL...&pi=SX200_QL40
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:16 PM   #77
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So this solution only has to last until saturday now. 1.5" silicone elbow on it's way. It will be red. Deal with it.
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:12 PM   #78
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I find its the blue, that really upsets them.
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:14 PM   #79
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I find its the blue, that really upsets them.
That makes me really tempted to use blue ones when I do my car.

This car's theme is red white abd black though. (Although the caps for the fuel injectors are blue, sadly).
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Old 07-21-2016, 03:32 PM   #80
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From the photoshoot last night.

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