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Not even remotely relevant to road course driving. Everyone who "drifts" does so on crappy coilovers...just because drifters love crappy coilovers doesn't make them okay for real track use.
Originally Posted by Z33Taxi
One thing I keep trying to remind myself is to have real expectations for the car. Will I ever make it a full track car? Will I ever want to leave HPDE, currently in HPDE2?
Here's the thing man: I'm a penny pincher when it comes to my build. I was on completely stock worn slam out suspension for a whole season while I saved up for coilovers. I did a ton of research and also sought out people to ride with. Every ride I made sure I took note of what their suspension setup was. There was only one brand that truly stood out as feeling noticeably better than the rest: Xidas. Additionally, I had done the whole "buy cheap coilovers first, regret it, and then buy nice coilovers later when I realized I messed up thing" before. It sucked financially and was way worse than just doing it right the first time. Buy once, cry once is the much better philosophy here. Be patient, save your pennies, and do it right. Most people are impatient and settle for less because of it. I still learned a lot on stock suspension and continue to learn more and more with my Xidas every time I go out. It took me a year to save for them, but I think it was well worth it.
Regarding SM radiator: probably overkill if you're talking about a legit crossflow. While they are nice for sure, a decent quality downflow will work just fine at stock (or most N/A with bolt-on) power levels. Especially with some thought toward proper ducting. I run a $250 CSF radiator on my completely stock, unopened BP4W and I hover right at 200*F on 100* August days with my 195* thermostat, which is right in the Miata's sweet spot (190-205*). There is such thing as running too cool and losing power. I just spent $60 last weekend in material for some aluminum radiator ducting and will see if I can get it more toward 190 on hot days just for a little extra insurance, but I don't think you need anything fancy right now. Coolant reroute is nice for more even cooling throughout the head and is worth the money, but ducting will be the real key to dropping temps a bit while at the track.
All I'm trying to say is save your money and do it right the first time instead of trying to justify that getting cheaper suspension allows you to buy more stuff. Saving for a longer period of time also allows you to buy more stuff...be patient!
Only you can determine if the car goes track only or if you decide to move on past HPDE. I'm only still in HPDE myself, but I feel it is better to have the car prepped to move in any direction I want instead of having to upgrade inferior parts down the line if/when I make that commitment. My budget is extremely tight, as it sounds like yours is as well. so you'll just need to devise a plan and stick to it.
Here's the thing man: I'm a penny pincher when it comes to my build. I was on completely stock worn slam out suspension for a whole season while I saved up for coilovers. I did a ton of research and also sought out people to ride with. Every ride I made sure I took note of what their suspension setup was. There was only one brand that truly stood out as feeling noticeably better than the rest: Xidas. Additionally, I had done the whole "buy cheap coilovers first, regret it, and then buy nice coilovers later when I realized I messed up thing" before. It sucked financially and was way worse than just doing it right the first time. Buy once, cry once is the much better philosophy here. Be patient, save your pennies, and do it right. Most people are impatient and settle for less because of it. I still learned a lot on stock suspension and continue to learn more and more with my Xidas every time I go out. It took me a year to save for them, but I think it was well worth it.
Regarding SM radiator: probably overkill if you're talking about a legit crossflow. While they are nice for sure, a decent quality downflow will work just fine at stock (or most N/A with bolt-on) power levels. Especially with some thought toward proper ducting. I run a $250 CSF radiator on my completely stock, unopened BP4W and I hover right at 200*F on 100* August days with my 195* thermostat, which is right in the Miata's sweet spot (190-205*). There is such thing as running too cool and losing power. I just spent $60 last weekend in material for some aluminum radiator ducting and will see if I can get it more toward 190 on hot days just for a little extra insurance, but I don't think you need anything fancy right now. Coolant reroute is nice for more even cooling throughout the head and is worth the money, but ducting will be the real key to dropping temps a bit while at the track.
All I'm trying to say is save your money and do it right the first time instead of trying to justify that getting cheaper suspension allows you to buy more stuff. Saving for a longer period of time also allows you to buy more stuff...be patient!
Only you can determine if the car goes track only or if you decide to move on past HPDE. I'm only still in HPDE myself, but I feel it is better to have the car prepped to move in any direction I want instead of having to upgrade inferior parts down the line if/when I make that commitment. My budget is extremely tight, as it sounds like yours is as well. so you'll just need to devise a plan and stick to it.
I hear you and that's kind of my thought process is well. I hate rework or having to do things over. I'll more than likely buy Xidas just now researching what spring rate, I'm considering 800/500.
The only reason I'm considering buying the more expensive SM rad is the weight savings over the CSF, 7lbs vs 22lbs.
My has been and always will be to keep it as reliable and keeping an ease of maintenance. Like you I kind "underestimated my own ability to learn quickly" and I'm no where near having a skill level above a Miata, but I know suspension is something that I want/need going into this next season.
800/500 is what I went with based on the recommendations I've read from Emilio for my 100tw tires (Toyo R888R currently). I also purchased the rest of the Big Grip Kit Supermiata sells.
I haven't run a 100tw tire yet, just my NT01s which I loved. I got an amazing deal on a set of Azenis rt615k+ so I'll be using them this season or until they heat cycle out.However, I think going with the 800/500 is what i'll end up doing with the coaxial mounts
NT01s are a 100tw tire, just older technology compared to the "super 200 street tires" we have now. NT01s are fairly similar to R888s, and the RT615K+ isn't a bad street tire either. I think 800/500 is fairly future proof for the average HPDE driver. I, too, went with coaxial mounts.
Another little project I'd like to run is brake ducts. I'm wondering if I can just drill out my bumper where the fog lights would be and run the singular motorsports kit.
Super excited, will be my first time there and my first event in HPDE2. I know watching videos can be helpful, but they don't always show the elevation change/track conditions properly. Any tips on learning a track the first time visiting? I'm definetly going to try to get someone from a higher class to hop in with me for the first session or two.
This weekend I traded in my Crosstrek for a heavily equipped 2011 Tahoe Ltz.
Plans for it include:
rear airbags
Larger trans cooler
I've never owned my own vehicle capable of towing, so I need to do research on how to use the brake controller and stuff like that. Im excited to save some money on getting the Miata to the track. ANy input would be great
With track days being cancelled the motivation to work on the Miata has been low. However, I have been getting a fair amount done.
I have:
- Completed installing the converted to manual steering rack.
- Yellow PPF on headlights...I am not good at this I learned. The drivers side is pretty good. The passenger side is not the best, but I'll eventually redo it
- Today I got the car aligned and drove it for a bit, which was nice and now Im just waiting on warmer weather.
On the short list of things to do:
- All new fluids
- Install Longacre accutech gauges in the eyeball vents
-Water temp. The sensor will go in a tapped Tstat housing
- Oil Pressure, Im using a sandwich plate
- Rebuild shifter.
- I wanted to get the extended and canted shift lever from Miataroadster, but Ill wait until I can drive someone else's with one to make sure its worth it. They are quite pricey
Did you depower the rack yourself? If so did you weld the pinion, and how hard was it? I'm just waiting on some tie rods and boots to be delivered, will probably take that project on this weekend.
Did you depower the rack yourself? If so did you weld the pinion, and how hard was it? I'm just waiting on some tie rods and boots to be delivered, will probably take that project on this weekend.
I did not. I bought to from advanced autosports. I tried doing it myself, but I absolutely destroyed one of my racks on disassembly, there's a giant nut and it became so mangled I got fed up and purchased an alreadly completed rack. I have an extra pinion if you mess up yours, but I can't imagine it being that hard at all. Plenty of area to work with. Rack disassembly was easy, minus that giant nut on the passenger side
I looked at the wire schematics and didn't see anything, but there isn't an immobilizer if I take power from the passenger airbag switch is there? I recently took out both the driver and pasanger airbags and I would like to install 2 gauges and I'm looking for places to get the power from. I'll be removing the airbag light as well.
I don't believe there is any immobilizer on NB1s (at least there weren't on the few I've torn apart). I tapped the radio power for my gauges though, can be done super easily two different ways: tapped directly from the radio harness behind the dash or use an add-a-fuse in the fusebox into the radio circuit.
I don't believe there is any immobilizer on NB1s (at least there weren't on the few I've torn apart). I tapped the radio power for my gauges though, can be done super easily two different ways: tapped directly from the radio harness behind the dash or use an add-a-fuse in the fusebox into the radio circuit.
The 10A was able to handle to gauges? The longacres have a draw of 62mA . So .124A on a 12V 10amp circuit should be fine. I'm guessing
The 10A was able to handle to gauges? The longacres have a draw of 62mA . So .124A on a 12V 10amp circuit should be fine. I'm guessing
I run all three of my Longacre gauges off that circuit and it's been just fine for me. I've always used the radio circuit for gauges in previous cars as well and never had a problem. Obviously with the actual radio removed because racecar.
Installed my SM radiator today and I'm having a bit on an issue. I've some searching around and it looks like im supposed to be able to keep my hood prop, however it sits directly on top of the radiator cap? The radiator is sitting in the holder, where the OEM one was located, the top brackets fit perfect.
**edit** Figured it out. The bushings on the bottom, where the new drain plugs are, need to be cut a lot more than they were. I followed the instruction book and just cut the tops off, but they need to be trimmed more so the rad will sit lower
It still sits on top..that cant be correct can it? I can close the hood, but shouldnt there be a slight gap between the cap and hood prop?
Its been a long time since I've posted, but this weekend I drove in my first event of 2020.
Impressions of LRP: This was my first time at LRP and it was one of the tracks I was looking forward to being able to drive on. It is a shorter track, but it has a fair amount of complexity to it because its all about momentum. I learned very quickly if you messed up in one area it would slow down the rest of your session. I started the weekend with a 1:18 and ended with a 1:10.008.I was really trying to dip into the 1:09, but I couldn't get find enough tenths. A majority of the track is full throttle with maybe a touch of the brake.
Track conditions: 94-96*F
Raining on and off
135 laps over 9 sessions in 2 days.
Car setup-
Stock Engine
SuperMiata Radiator
180* Tstat
Stock Suspension
Brakes
DTC60 Front
DTC 30 Rear
Depowered rack
falken azenis rt615k+ 205/55/15 on 15x7
This was my very first time on these tires. Previously I was using NT05 and they are a bit different. The Falkens cold have a lot of grip. I was finding on the first few laps they were quite sticky and felt solid. When they started heating up I don't think they were "losing" grip, but they allowed more slip, but they were very predictable and still gave my enough confidence to slide into corners. Maybe towards the end of the 2nd day they gave me a few "uh-o" moments, but they again the stayed very predictable. The Falkens also handled very well in the wet. We had some heavy rain and they performed well. They may have another day in them, but they took a beating this weekend. For their price and performance I would definitely get them again.
What I need to work on: I'm definitely comfortable in the car now and comfortable being on track. This was my first event I was cleared for solo and it took me maybe 2 sessions to get used to the track. I'm still a bit early entering some apexes and I know I can be using more of the track. I have an issue with not being all the way over to one side and I think that's why I'm entering early in some turns. A big positive that came out of this weekend is I'm able to see where I can be quicker and I'm able to fix it over the next couple of laps. That's what I like most about LRP, in a single session you get about 15 laps if you don't get stuck behind someone. There were many sections, like the down hill where I was afraid to take it without the brakes, but after a few sessions I was entering with just a tap of the brakes and then immediately getting on the power. This track helped me a lot with car control too. Big bend is a huge turn and while I need to work on taking corners better after a high speed section, I tried several lines and was able to carry that line consistently.
Here is a video from one of my 2nd day sessions. I pass a few big V8s, a Viper and other fast cars. Felt great getting a point by when we were entering the curvy part of the track
I'm jealous you got out to the track this year. My car is still in pieces lol.
So bad news..... your clutch is slipping Who knows how much longer it'll last..... could go a whole other 2 seasons. Add it to your list of things to fix, though.
I've never been to LRP, so I don't have all the deets. You already mentioned the things you need to work on overall, using more of the track, turn in later/wider line so you're not into it too early. You could possibly do the braking section of T1 differently, later on the brakes but more pressure, trailing off to get it to rotate a bit, and also track out a bit further. Seems like the fast way around LRP in the a miata is rotating on entry and squiggling it around the turns. Hopefully not too much angle, because then you'll scrub too much speed.
I'm jealous you got out to the track this year. My car is still in pieces lol.
So bad news..... your clutch is slipping Who knows how much longer it'll last..... could go a whole other 2 seasons. Add it to your list of things to fix, though.
Yeah I was realizing that as I was driving, especially shifting into 4th going uphill. I'm really hoping I can get away with it until after August, I just signed up for Watkins Glen. I'll most likely go with the SM kit w/ the 9lb fly.
Originally Posted by flier129
I've never been to LRP, so I don't have all the deets. You already mentioned the things you need to work on overall, using more of the track, turn in later/wider line so you're not into it too early. You could possibly do the braking section of T1 differently, later on the brakes but more pressure, trailing off to get it to rotate a bit, and also track out a bit further. Seems like the fast way around LRP in the a miata is rotating on entry and squiggling it around the turns. Hopefully not too much angle, because then you'll scrub too much speed.
I was trying to get more entry by trail braking, but its still a work in progress. I need to work on my heel toe as well, maybe even getting a pedal extension. LRP is all momentum and I instantly knew when I was off line. What I was excited/proud about is that all my times stayed fairly consistent when I learned from mistakes. I think I could pick up another second around the whole track, maybe a little more. T1 and going into the straight is where I think I could make up time. Maybe the uphill, but its an odd spot I'm at the top of 3rd at the bottom and when I shift I don't have the revs to sustain the speed, I tried going up in 3rd, but it was a no go
01-31-2020, 09:52 PM
3
Who knows how much longer it'll last..... could go a whole other 2 seasons. Add it to your list of things to fix, though.
