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1.8 EWG gt2560

Old 12-24-2016, 09:51 PM
  #41  
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that setup/turbo on e85 should hit 330 without any issues.
I bet you can push it to 400 if you really wanted to.
I personally wouldn't go .86 ar, but I guess it depends on where you like your power. I can't imagine this thing choking up top with a vta ewg, unless that funky placement chokes it up
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:00 AM
  #42  
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This setup will hit 330. And I'll keep turning it up until I start breaking drive train parts or most likely a stock piston. It will be fun either way. Im going to have it set up pretty simple where ill be able to pull the engine in an hour or so


I really should go with the smaller housing just to see what it will do. If im happy i could leave it. If not ill try out the big .86. Whats an extra $400 tial housing anyway lmao its a slippery slope for sure
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:10 AM
  #43  
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It just depends on what you really want. For #racecar people throw away powerband for that extra 20hp at redline. those of us who enjoy our cars daily will gladly trade 20hp at redline for 200rpm worth of spool down low. the difference is drastic in how the car feels below 10/10ths
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:19 AM
  #44  
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The car is more of a weekend toy/giggle machine. Im going to start with the .86 housing because my goal is to run 11s with it so i may just need the extra hp up top. If i really cant stand the slower spool then i will try the smaller housing. The only car ive driven with an aftermarket turbo is my own 2560r miata so i dont have a lot of expectations. Imo the gt28 is relatively small anyway.

I cant wait for the spring time
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:48 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by LownSlow616
anyone know if this will work? so much conflicting info on deleting the heater core and coolant routing...

The heater core is a good heat exchanger. If it doesn't leak, don't block it.
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:58 PM
  #46  
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Its been said before but ill say it again: if the heater is needed to cool the engine, then I have bigger problems.

Have you had to deal with the rubber hoses on the firewall? Royal PITA. I want simplicity. So when I break a piston i can put in another engine in an afternoon
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Old 12-25-2016, 01:52 PM
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I'm running the GTX2867R on a built NA8 engine on pump 93 with the .86 housing. My build thread has a recent virtual dyno with a FM log manifold. I'm putting a tubular manifold on it this weekend and will have updated power and spool results within a couple of weeks. I went with the. 86 to give up spool for more open flow and heat reduction on the track. The manifold should help realize those goals. Besides, if I'm below 4000rpm on the track and needing to accelerate then I should have downshifted.
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Old 12-25-2016, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I'm running the GTX2867R on a built NA8 engine on pump 93 with the .86 housing. My build thread has a recent virtual dyno with a FM log manifold. I'm putting a tubular manifold on it this weekend and will have updated power and spool results within a couple of weeks. I went with the. 86 to give up spool for more open flow and heat reduction on the track. The manifold should help realize those goals. Besides, if I'm below 4000rpm on the track and needing to accelerate then I should have downshifted.

Ill have a decent amount of timing with e85, and 9.5:1 pistons. Plus VTA wastegate and a proper 3 inch exhaust. Im hoping it will spool pretty good. Im excited to see how it feels in practice. Especially after being used to the gt25. If i dont like how it feels, ill get the .63 and swap in an afternoon. (I love -an lines and v bands
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Old 12-25-2016, 03:21 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I'm running the GTX2867R on a built NA8 engine on pump 93 with the .86 housing. My build thread has a recent virtual dyno with a FM log manifold. I'm putting a tubular manifold on it this weekend and will have updated power and spool results within a couple of weeks. I went with the. 86 to give up spool for more open flow and heat reduction on the track. The manifold should help realize those goals. Besides, if I'm below 4000rpm on the track and needing to accelerate then I should have downshifted.
This. Go with the .86 for all the reasons mentioned here.

Bigger A/R will keep backpressure on engine down, which helps prevent detonation. Good for engine life.

Also +1 to that dyno OP, pretty flat torque curve! Hope I can get something similar soon as I'm changing up my setup to have a good header as well. I think your manifold is why it holds torque better than most BPs. I bet a larger A/R on that turbo would flatten the torque out even more once it's spooled.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:37 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I'm running the GTX2867R
how big is the oil drain opening on the turbo? Will a -10 AN line be enough?

Can I please get some input from others on these other hose sizes so I can order all my fittings and lines?

Turbo oil feed: -4
Turbo oil drain: -10
Turbo water lines: -6
Valve cover breathers: -10
Fuel return: -6
Fuel feed: stock 5/16 hard line
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:09 PM
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I'm not running an AN drain line. I believe what I have as is a half inch inside diameter high temp low pressure hydraulic hose.
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Old 02-25-2017, 12:58 PM
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Anyone know where I could buy a single acl race std size rod bearing? Lol. I done messed up. I dont want to buy a whole set if i dont have to

(see nick on top right)
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Old 02-25-2017, 01:30 PM
  #53  
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Can a mod move this to build thread section? pretty please?
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:21 PM
  #54  
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done
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:29 PM
  #55  
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Cleaned stock pistons with mineral spirits and a copper brush. 42k miles of carbon build up came off pretty easy


Assembled rotating assembly with arp main studs, manley rods w/ arp 2000 rod bolts, and standard size acl race rod, main, thrust bearings.

Since the crank and oem bearings looked great due to their low mileage and frequent oil changes, I decided to throw in some standard size bearings. I was confident that I didnt even need to measure clearances bc of the condition of the crank and the "standard size" of the bearings.

After several sleepless nights on mt.net reading about oil clearances, bearings, torque specs, machine work, etc, I decided I needed to at least plastigauge the clearances.

I took apart the entire assembly, cleaned all the assembly lube off, (not fun) and plastigauged everything. Good news: Every main and rod journal is right at the loose end of factory specs. And they were all very consistent. Win. Bad news: (see photo in post above) I put a nice nick in a rod bearing trying to rip the rod cap off the rod during measurement.


this mistake will set me back 1 week and $50 for a set of bearings in which I only need 1 of the 8 in the set. But now ill be able to sleep better not worrying about oil clearances. Well worth a week and $50 imo

Ive seen it posted before, but i just love this comparison



still to do: install BE oil pump, wait for rod bearings, seal oil pan, install head, order new turbo, plumb an oil/water lines, plumb new fuel system setup, turn key. (if only it was that easy!)
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:52 PM
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My previous plan was a gtx2867 for 350-maybe 400whp.

After many hours of research and thinking, ive decided to go with the bigger GT3071.

Yes its old tech w/ the cast wheel and yes it will spool a little slower, BUT I still think it will suit my needs better than a gtx2871. why?

-Im sick of buying turbos. I want headroom. 350whp isnt going to be enough. 400whp might not be enough. Im always going to want more. I dont want to be limited by the turbo

-Im after a certain exhaust note. I hate how miatas sound. They are buzzy and raspy. I believe small exhaust housings dont help with this. Yes, I know im not going to get the perfect sound im after with a stock head/cams, but the bigger housing may help deepen the tone. and moar loud. Because 22 year old.

-Lastly, the gt28 is still a relatively small turbo. Ive read alot of stuff on other platforms, (vw/audi/ford) that the gtx28s still stuggle to flow their advertised horsepower due to the small exhaust side. Which makes perfect sense -you could have a bitchin cold side with a big fancy billet wheel, but if the turbine cant flow enough, you cant make big hp up top.

even 18psi agrees. (well maybe...that was 6 years ago)
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:55 PM
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Have run small/big/huge turbos on miata. Can confirm bigger exhaust housing on turbo = louder/deeper/less muffled exhaust note.
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
Have run small/big/huge turbos on miata. Can confirm bigger exhaust housing on turbo = louder/deeper/less muffled exhaust note.
Ive heard of you.

I cant wait to hear this thing rip. I think its going to sound pretty unique with the external gate, big turbo, "high" compression, and increased timing with e85.

(Thanks for all your help answering my messages concerning stock piston stuff )
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:43 PM
  #59  
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the e85 will be the biggest contributor to deeper sound aside from exhaust. it changes the tone for all cars

og 3071 won't make more than 400, at least I really doubt it (or unless it's on a moon dyno). But anything over a legit 350 is seriously fast so who cares. you'll be busy replacing 5 speeds anyway
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Old 02-25-2017, 08:06 PM
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Coffee pot full. Now to google search gtx3067,gtx3071,gt3071,gt3076

its gonna be a late night!
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