3076 is where it's at. Just do it. It's a T3 turbo though, not T2.

No problem, good luck with your setup!

Isnt that just the turbine housing "frame?" I dont pay attention to t3 t25 t2 and all that. My mani/dp flanges are for tial V band in/out housings for either gt28, gt30, or gt35 turbos.

Im trying to talk myself out of a gtx3071. It would be very nice but its an extra $5-600 over a standard gt3071/76. Its getting very hard to justify $2k on something that isnt an EFR

I don't know how the V-band stuff works on those, but a 3071 is a T2 flange if you get it with a flange, and a 3076 is a T3 flange if you get it with a flange. T3 being bigger of course. I would do the 3076 but I'm don't really care about having full boost a 3K as much as I do about having good power up top. The 3076 would make more power than a 3071 (3071 has a tiny turbine compared to 3076) since it flows a lot better on the hotside. I have an ebay 3076 with a .82 A/R right now for my small turbo, it's a little laggy but has good top end power. I can't really compare "spool" numbers as I now have an auto so when it's under load, the converter slip and the RPMs climb, so I can't make the turbo do full boost at 3,500 because the converter would be at 5K from it slipping.

Pretty sure they have the exact same turbine wheel. Its a bigger compressor wheel. That number is the exducer in mm of the comp wheel.

No?

Regardless, I've seen big hp on both the gt3071 (ctdrftna, FM) and the gt3076 (fab9 white NB)

Yeah disregard, I'm thinking of the ebay variants vs the actual garretts. Looks like on garrets the 3076 has a bigger comp vs the 3071. On ebay, it's the opposite.

did more reading, got paranoid about piston ring end gaps. Yay. Took all the pistons out. I used a chart I found in a different thread for ring end gaps. I used the "street moderate turbo/nitrous" category. (bore size in inches X .005) Then I ground all the top ring gaps to 15-16 thousandths. Its looser than oem spec, but still well under the maximum service limit of .039. Im prepared for some blowby (-10AN hoses on each side of valve cover to vented catch can) Then I reassembled everything and finally got the head on.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c5289fc1dd.jpg

I was going to order a gtx3071 from atp. Then I found this, GEN2 - Garrett GTX3071R : atpturbo.com

Gen2 gtx3071. same price with tial housing as the gen1 and more hp. What do I do? Gen1 gtx3071, gen2 gtx3071, or og gt3076?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d43384c1fd.jpg
MMmmmmm billet. Mmmmmm anti surge :drool:

Anyone? The gen2 gtx line came out late last year so im not surprised there's little info on them on the web. And definitely no info with miatas.
Does anyone have an opinion on the gen 2? Makes no since to go with the first gtx3071 when the new one is the same price

Attachment 179036

vibrant catch can showed up. Way bigger than I thought but it is a very nice piece. -10AN inlets, -8AN drain on the bottom, externally vented, and it even has a dipstick
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a9e160ded3.jpg

Damn, that catch can is nice. How does it look internally? That is where it really counts.

I must ask, you are wanting "headroom" for the turbo but you arent investing in pistons now? Your stock pistons arent going to handle 400hp even with e85. I believe people have found the limit much closer to 300whp.

This was supposed to be a budget block. ~330whp

"While i was in there" really got to me and i ended up basically building an allofit block. Besides pistons and rings as you pointed out.

That said, i really think i can make big(ger) hp on this block. Even with stock pistons. Patsmx5 ran 29psi through a big turbo on his stock pistons with pump gas and was fine. (Later cracked a piston at 30+ psi)

Im not too worried about it. I love building my car. Yes its a money pit...but IF i break a piston this summer, the motor will come out and get supertechs. I also have a backup bp4w long block.

Its just time and money after all

Why not just put the super techs in from the get go? Want to test the limits of the stock pistons...for science?

dont forget to get us some pics inside that catch can.

​​​​​​​Because going forged pistons adds at least a $1000 more to the engine build cost then sticking with stock pistons.

​​​​​​​That'll do it lol.

Yes it does. And imo adds HUGE risk when deciding who does the machine work. There are way too many "machine shops" in my area that would most definitely fuck up piston to wall clearances or not have a clue how to build a high revving big hp 4 cyclinder

I dont feel like opening it up. Im sure it will be fine for my application..plus its a vibrant piece, im sure its well designed. here is a little diagram in the instructions. looks pretty simple
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f3050c3d54.jpg

How the fuck do I upload a normal sized picturse that you dont have to click on to see? Ive been clicking on the mountain picture and then "insert from device," and it ends up massive

How the fuck do I upload a normal sized picturse that you dont have to click on to see? Ive been clicking on the mountain picture and then "insert from device," and it ends up massive

Edit in "paint" and use 1024 pixels or something in that ballpark.
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