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2001 LS - My excuse for drinking

 
Old 06-11-2017, 10:57 AM
  #21  
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Whelp, super bummer weekend. Got wait listed for the track day, but I still got an alignment beforehand. Rather than say they couldn't meet my targets for caster and camber in the front, they just hit the caster target and left camber at the max they could get. Less than a degree on either side, with the back at 2.0 degrees. If the alignment had have been right, I would have shown up early to try and get a spot.

Bauer ELBJs on the way, then we will try again.
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:17 PM
  #22  
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Let's see, what's happened recently. Kind of went down the rabbit hole...

ELBJs went in, and I also rebooted the other ball joints/tie rods with the Energy Suspension replacements. Since it needed an alignment, why not change over to that welded steering rack I had lying around?

Out with this nonsense.



Got the Icehawk alignment and kind of regretted it, as the car understeered. Given that I was changing alignment and steering at the same time, I couldn't pin down why. But with the Rivals and a proper alignment, my next autocross went well. There is someone that was consistently about 2 seconds faster than me on a 30 second course. Those two things put me ahead of him, but one blown corner cooked my left front tire, and from there it only understeered more and more. Disappointment was the mood of the day as he quickly took over the lead and I dropped back down the ranks.

Trying to fix the understeer, I put in just the rear 5X Racing 14mm bar. I noticed it shifted from side to side to the point that it was contacting the subframe, so after eBay failed me and sent me collars that were way too big, my roomie whipped up some that fit just right.



The car felt way better, so I took it to a Test and Tune event with the NWOR SCCA at Toledo Express airport. It was by far the biggest autocross I've ever been on, by the end I was doing 51 seconds and bumping the limiter in 2nd (60 mph) at at least two points on track.


What a difference back to back runs makes - I've never really learned a whole lot at an autocross until this one. It really helped me get a feel for the car, experimenting with what driving style would really help it scootch. Slowing my inputs to match the roll rate of the car seemed to make all the difference. My best time of 51.5 seconds put me two tenths ahead of a 1.6 NA with 700/400 XIDAs, Elise seats to hold you in place, a big honking wing, and was also on 225 Rivals. Pretty proud of that one given that my car has a sway bar as it's only real performance mod!

Also, Test and Tunes may have ruined a regular autocross for me. I can't wait for a real track day.
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Old 10-20-2017, 05:17 PM
  #23  
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Managed to squeeze in a track day at Waterford Hills this past weekend! Last OTD of the season, glad I got some use out of the rollbar and it wasn't installed for nothing. Since it was going to rain, I set the rear bar to full soft as a precaution and kept my street tires on.

Super cool parking buddy.



Waterford Hills itself, great view from the tower.



It ended up being wet for the first two of my sessions, and dry the last two. I love driving in the rain, it really puts a lot more emphasis on car control IMO. I had one off because my feet got tangled, and rather than try to save it I just took the escape road. Never left the pavement! Next year I'm definitely going to try to be out there a lot more.

I've also done some work making the interior look less ratty and more to suit my end goals. First, a gauge swap to the OPG off my 1990. I missed having a real oil pressure gauge, something that moves with the tach every time you blip the throttle.



So the "alcantara" wrapped dash is faded AF, but it still doesn't reflect in the windshield so I am happy. Also got some Eclipse vents in there, leather parking brake and shifter boots, black floormats and under dash trim, the oil pressure gauge itself, and door straps.



Unfortunately even though it doesn't feel like it, winter is coming. I've got a whole bunch of projects lined up to keep me entertained. Gonna finish off the interior, install gauges and a radio, make the NA HVAC controls fit, and try to remove all traces of tan

Performance wise, I'm definitely going to install some bumpstops and weld up some fender braces. The car is really well balanced but rolls all over the place.
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:38 PM
  #24  
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Another stupid good deal on parts. This time, Craigslist fell through, but Facebook Marketplace picked up the slack in my old stomping grounds around Richmond VA. I had my dad trade a crisp $100 bill for these guys.



Mazdaspeed shocks and springs, but the seller described them as off of a '99 he had a brief fling with, but also described them as having never been on his car. Whatever, they look to be in good shape.

With replacements not quite in hand but functionally so, we got some Dutch Courage in our system and took apart the shock that was damaged when I totalled my NA. The finer details are lost in a haze, but it was a bitch to get this thing apart. We got tired of playing nice and cut one of the circlips out, and basically destroyed every single part of it. Oh well, I have another one with a scored shaft we can learn on and be nicer when taking it apart.


Despite the fact that I have 450/300 7" springs and Allstar threaded sleeves sitting on a shelf, the 'Speed shocks are going to stay with their OEM spring friends for now. In the future I'd like to get some FM springs and revalve the Billies, but Michigan roads are terribad so I'm not going to rush into a harsh suspension setup. Fresh bumpstops and bushings should do me just fine. I might do some playing around with extended rear top hats to get some more bump travel since I've got a spare set of NB top hats I can cut up and not feel bad about.
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:21 PM
  #25  
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Sort of a slow winter.. Most of the projects I've had in mind are plastic or paint related, and my garage is seperate from the house, unheated. Makes for easy excuses.

On the return trip from Thanskgiving, My alternator started to go south. When the battery light first came on, I stopped to check the belt tension and such in a Kroger in Ohio. A few miles later, all the gauge lights dimmed and it was clear that at that point, the car was only running on 12v from the battery, and I hadn't even made it into Michigan. With 20 miles to go, the HIDs began flickering when the turn signals came on. With 10 miles to go, one headlight went out completely, so I started drafting close to people and turning off the lights completely. By the time I pulled into the house, the other headlight was flickering on its own as well. On a 700 mile trip it just barely got me home, and finally earned its place in my heart.

So, she's gotten a reman'd alternator first thing.

Then I put a set of these in.



50 miles on them so far... shifting is awesome, but oh my god is it loud in the car now. Highway speeds are fine and just like before, but under 2000 RPM it's absolutely ridiculously loud. So many things rattling! I'll be taking the interior apart again when we get a warm day, and putting a ton of soft foam or velcro between things that are rattling. Hopefully it will settle in more, but I'm having a hard time it will become an order of magnitude better.

Found and bought a set of FM springs for sale right here on Miataturbo in RVA... They're kinda sorta really ugly. The tightly coiled section must have smashed dirt through the powdercoating and let water in, cause it was all rusted out. I'm going to repaint them, and if I like the results, consider getting a new set. The free length checked out, but rust pocked springs aren't going to last forever. Still gotta pick up some bumpstops, perhaps new spring seat isolators before they go in.



A while back I decided those Raydyot replica mirrors were bullshit. Can't see nothing, too smol, and too hidden behind a window guide. I tried the NA mirrors to get a bigger manual mirror, but the window guide was still in the way. Time to fix that.










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Old 03-24-2018, 06:10 PM
  #26  
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Default Megasquirt Woes

Well, big step. I bought this from Vteckiller2000:



MSLabs MS3 Basic. Not pictured is the VICS intake manifold I got with it.

And I've already fucked up. After plugging it in, I had no issues. So, I figured I'd start by flashing in a base cal from DIYAutoTune, since I have no idea what vteckiller was running. This is where the problems began, and of course I didn't save his tune. At that point, I had an error code for spark/VVT PWM function, so I changed to the 4G63 wheel setting. Then it said VVT was unable to function in this mode.

Naturally, rather than slow down and pay attention, I tried to reflash the firmware. When prompted to install a boot jumper, I realized I had no idea what that was and I was way in over my head. So I exited that menu, and now it seems I have corrupted the firmware, as the fuel pump no longer primes nor does TunerStudio recognize the ECU in the main window. When I open up the firmware update tool, it does recognize that it is connected to a Megasquirt 3.

I recognize that I am a moron. Can someone help me figure out next steps? Seems like I need to open up the case, find the Boot Jumper and jump it, then reflash the firmware. At this point though I am trying to put down the shovel and stop digging the hole deeper.

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:32 AM
  #27  
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Haha I am dumb.

Reflashed new firmware, MS now shows many errors with a base tune. Time to email Reverant and ask for the appropriate firmware and base tune.
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Old 04-14-2018, 09:47 AM
  #28  
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Things escalated quickly around here.

Firstly, I got the MS3 working all proper. The CAN box it came with hadn't been working, and I managed to get all the settings right so that the ECU and CAN box are on speaking terms. The car has now had a basic road VEAL autotune, I'm trying to work on making it start and idle nice, etc etc. Much reading to do on VVT maps, startup, cold enrichment and the like.

I took the time to remove the dash and clean up some of the janky wiring that had been in place since the dash was first "temporarily installed" last spring. It's pretty packed in there, but no longer a snake pit of disorganization.

Then I accidentally did the worst thing ever according to miataturbo. I bought an MP62 hotside kit from emulsifide, who happens to be local.



Everything seems to be in great shape, but I'm going to take my sweet time on the install. I'm in no rush to nuke my engine due to ignorance. So I'm going to wade in slowly and not dive in the deep end.

What it looked like on emulsifides gorgeous car. 125/65 mm pulleys, TDR intercooler, with the kit itself being a BRP R3 setup.



So how do my end goals differ from his setup? Not a whole lot! I'll be trying to make the most of the boost it's got, rather than making more. Setting up E85 capability will be a primary goal. Eventually, I'd like to address the supercharger plumbing. The corrugated intake hose may not be a restriction, but I'd like to make some hard piping and create an airbox for the filter to feed it cold air. This may eventually include relocating the 5th injector the kit came with to the supercharger inlet for a water injection system. I'm also on the hunt for the revised Moss MP62 outlet that is supposedly worth a few horsies.

The goal is, as always, a reliable do anything car - 1000 mile road trips or track days. Just with more power and more whining.

So, plan of attack.
  1. Cleanup - just make everything pretty, inside and out.
  2. Swap VICS manifold, injectors, install flex fuel sensor, retune
  3. Install some kind of catch can system
  4. Change clutch, fuel pump
  5. Install oil cooler, possibly a coolant reroute.
  6. Install supercharger with lower boost pulleys
  7. ???
  8. Whine off into sunset.
If anyone has any input on what sort of clutch or fuel pump I should get, that would be great.

Last edited by OptionXIII; 04-14-2018 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:59 PM
  #29  
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Well... Not as much progress as I would like. I'd really like to dial in the Megasquirt running NA before I put on the supercharger, and apparently I suck at tuning, so this is taking longer than expected. Lots of reading and buying parts, very little driving.

In the meantime, I blew a ton of money on parts and wasted time doing other things.

The supercharger outlet paint had seen better days, so I took it back to base metal for a respray.




Ew.



Ta da! They match! The VICS intake manifold got painted at the same time, after many hours of cleaning, removing casting flash, and soaking in solvent to remove the EGR boogers.




Also gave at home anodizing a try. It turned out pretty great! No more worries about oxidation or polishing for me. This is the mirror mount I had previously made enjoying a nice, relaxing sulfuric acid bath.





On the car, I'm currently trying to figure out why my AFRs seem to change fairly dramatically from day to day. One day it will read rich, then really lean. My ideas on possible causes:

1. I'm thinking my stock IAT sensor may be miscalibrated, as I've found different values for the OE one in different instruction sets. Even though spring has finally arrived, the weather is still inconsistent here in SE Michigan. I'm going to throw the GM one in the airbox and wire it up to eliminate this possibility.

2. Wideband power/ground connections aren't so great. The wideband is talking to the MS3 through an MSLabs CAN box, so signal offset shouldn't be an issue. But I did wire in a connector between the ECU and the Innovate wideband rather than solder them directly together. Given that the CAN box handles direct communication between the wideband and the ECU, is there any reason I can't change the power/ground wire feeds to make sure the wideband is getting a clean, consistent power feed?

Last edited by OptionXIII; 04-25-2018 at 08:12 AM. Reason: grammar
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:41 PM
  #30  
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Honestly thinking about giving up on this boost project. Failures, frustrations, and misdirection at every turn.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

One of my coils died late last week. I diagnosed it by switching back to the stock ECU, then swapping the coils and following the misfire code. I bought two coils off rockauto, and it started and idled fine once more.

But then I switched back to the MS3, and found the WBO2 gauge and tunerstudio to disagree on the AFR. I spent two hours over two days trying to diagnose issues, verify settings, and check connections. Turns out the serial connector at the CAN case would work if I pushed one way, and fail if I pushed the other. It seems to be working okay now, but who knows how long that will last. I no longer have faith in it to say the least.

Then I finally got to taking it for a drive and noticed some loss of power in the higher rev range. I pulled over to fiddle with and check the fuel map. Two minutes later, it started missing at low engine speeds. Holding the engine at 4k for 10 seconds seemed to make that behavior go away. I want to fiddle/increase my dwell timing but not if it's going to blow up my second set of coils, and of course there is conflicting info out there on VVT coil dwell time. These cheap coils probably aren't as good as the Mazda OEM ones anyway.

I just want to drive the thing. I've been waiting all winter and now track days and autocrosses are passing me by, and every step I take to make the car better set up for megasquirt makes it more difficult to go back to stock. The long hours at work don't leave me much time to troubleshoot. I love wrenching, but fiddling with computer settings and hoping I don't blow up my motor with a wrong 1 or 0 doesn't qualify as wrenching to me. I used to be completely unafraid to drive this car across the country, now I barely trust it to take me 5 miles from home.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:29 PM
  #31  
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Right in the feelz, bro.
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:11 PM
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I'm back on the wagon. It's been an anxious few weeks as I researched, bought parts, and waited for them to arrive.

I saw a lot of people saying they had issues with cheap coils, and I definitely had the cheapest of the cheap. Well, time to upgrade to something stronger and easily available in the junkyard for OEM replacements. Everyone says D585 LS truck coils are the ones to have, so I got four of those and a harness to hack up from the junkyard. I decided to go with the Hawley coil mounts to keep my strut tower brace intact, and I got their Magnecor wires as well. I got some nice crimpers and the appropriate Sumitumo connectors from Corsa Technic to avoid cutting into the stock wiring harness. And tonight, I did the most janky, awful wiring I have ever seen.

This post from Savington is where I got the appropriate dwell settings.

I can't find the original post that I had open last night, but Reverant posted this somewhere. Someone else quoted it for an MSLabs MS2, but it worked just fine on my MS3 as well.

The wire for ignition on cylinders 1 + 4, becomes cylinder 1.
The wire for ignition on cylinders 2 + 3, becomes cylinder 3.
Connect cylinder 4 to the DB-37, pin 6 (Ign C).
Connect cylinder 2 to the DB-37, pin 7 (Ign D).
After wiring the coils up as per the LSx coil thread, setting the dwell and ignition settings,and my spare ignition outputs to match the above, it fired up the first time. I taped and tidied the wires into something neater before going out for a rip. She pulls hard right to redline now...Well, as hard as a mostly stock Miata can.

Yes, the engine was running when this was taken. Those wires were making it spark.




The next steps are to make a harness that doesn't resemble a birds nest, and get back to tuning. I've got a bunch of parts that arrived just as the car died, but held off on installing these until I knew my car was going to run decently well on the Megasquirt. So much wasted time!
  • FM Level 1 clutch
  • Supermiata Qmax reroute
  • TSE oil cooler
  • SS Clutch line, new master and slave cylinders
  • parts for Deezums style catch can
  • DW200 fuel pump
That fix took me long enough, but it's good to be back in the game.
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