sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Better information exists now than in 2008, but I'm glad you are taking some time to search. Most people fire off questions without putting any legwork in themselves.

This forum is not as bad as you think. You are doing a fine job maintaining your cool and you are asking the right questions.

KevinK121

I appreciate this, thank you very much.

KevinK121

Didnt get a lot done today but I did build the intake. Its just the old intake recycled with an angled restricting coupler to the turbo. I notched out that bit that looks like the wastegate hose was going to rub on as well. Starting to get the feeling Im really putting off dropping the trany -_- I know it wont be that bad but egh. The furthest Ive gotten is removing the center console.

I also decided I want to wire in the old AC fan to run during track days. I know there's some info here about wiring in a relay somewhere. I'd like to put a manual switch on it being I've read that running both in unison during DD can actually keep things too cool. Would be nice to run a better water temp sensor at point as well... but that's not on the radar just yet.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Be sure to insulate the dipstick tube, heater hoses, master cylinder, brake lines, and throttle/speedo cables from the manifold and turbine. Pay special attention to the left front brake line as it leaves the master cylinder and travels down the inside of the frame rail. You don't want to boil the fluid and lose brakes during spirited driving.

The dipstick handle can melt and send molten plastic into your oil if not insulated from the manifold. It cost me an engine.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

With MS3-Basic you can control the A/C fan directly. Did you have A/C on the car? If so, you have the fan and relay?

It may be something that Reverant added in his MS that is not available in the Pro, but may be possible to set up. Here is the output screen that controls the A/C fan, separate from A/C control:




Also, you should not need fan(s) above 40 mph with any kind of decent ducting.

DNM

KevinK121

Oh jeez O_o

While I was planning on shielding off the whole area right of the turbo and above where the engine bay sheeting is bonded, I hadnt considered the handle there. Never would have thought of that. Sounds like mess for sure O_O

For the tube and brake line, would you figure the gold heat reflect tape would be enough or should get into some insulated jacket stuff?

Thank you for the heads up there.

Thank you for the heads up, that would certainly make things easier. Yeah the car had AC initially and after checking, the electrical is still there I worried I might have clipped it when removing the other components.

The ducting is currently poor TBH. An ill-fitting an aftermarket rad on stock ducting. Definitely another thing to be found on the some-day list. Ill have to dig into the entire thought process more in depth later.

KevinK121

I set out to get the oil supply and return crossed off the list today. Unfortunately my 1/2" bit didnt quite satisfy the 5/8 tap I purchased

I guess whats another $12 at this point? I spent quite a bit more than I thought I would on plumbing and thats without going to braided AN lines -_- whatever it takes to get running I spose.

The pressure sender/banjo area was real gross. The oil seemed to have weeped out and cooked down to an almost rubber consistency. I wire brushed it off but it was a bit off putting O_o

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

A layer or two of reflective tape with a small air gap would do well.

HarryB

This. Air gap does wonders

KevinK121

Another day of disappointment unfortunately. My fittings and tap/bit arrived today. The goal was to get the mixing valve/inlet/w/e drilled and tapped as well as the oil return.

I dont have a vice so had to get creative. Worked well enough but all said and done the fitting snapped. I had initially bought two by accident. Good thing I did ^-^
Also, protip/reminder, make sure you're not drilling/tapping anything right in front of the access to the mounting hardware Genius. Not a big issue but gave me a chuckle when I went to put it back on. Pulling the fitting, reinstalling the piece and replacing the fitting with more JB is what lead to snapping it... and having to drill it back out.






Onto the oil return. Everything was going great. Did really well keeping shavings out of the pan, the tapping went great and then... the fitting I was sent wasn't an actual 5/8. It's larger but with the same thread size. I looked briefly for a replacement that I could get quickly but there doesnt seem to be anything that's both 5/8-18 with a 5/8 barb. Im pretty annoyed. This whole leg of the project has been order and wait, order and wait, order and wait. So at this point I have a 5/8-18 tapped hole in my oil pan and a length of 5/8" titan hose with no lead on a replacement barb. There's gotta be something out there but having to order more crap and wait god knows how long has me in a bad mood. Ill dig more later.

Tomorrow is the last day of my scheduled unemployment stint so I decided I MUST DROP THE EFFING TRANS. I'll feel like a fool if I squandered all this time without doing the clutch.

KevinK121

Spent the morning trying to figure out what best to do about this fitting thing. I was unable to find a replacement anywhere.

I've decided it's either 11/16-18 or a poorly machined 5/8-18. I dont have a caliper on hand unfortunately.
My plan is to first establish what diameter the fitting actually is. If it's a poorly machined 5/8, Ill just chase it down and run it.
If the fitting is 11/16, Ill retap the pan I spose. Maybe Ill chase it down 5/8. I dont love the idea. Im annoyed that the 11/16 tap is ~20 bucks and Ill use it literally one time.

**** Edit ****
Threads on the fitting are 3/8-19 BPT. This explains why I wasn't able to figure it out with tools commonly used here O_o.

The rub is that I was told the fitting was 5/8 so I purchased the tap and drilled/tapped the pan to 5/8.
The difference in OD is .031 but the thread pitch is off by a thread. So no tapping the whole up or die'ing the fitting down.

3/8 -19 .656" OD, 19 TPI
5/8 - 18 .625" OD, 18 TPI

The source of the fitting was kind enough to offer a new fitting to work as initially intended. 5/8-18 to 5/8 barb. Crisis averted.

KevinK121

Back to employment. Its my 5 yr anniversary today actually... huh...

Didnt get as much done as I would have liked but I did drop the trans and get over the half way hump. Gotta order a couple exhaust gaskets, wait for my oil return fitting, and wait for my metal order to be fulfilled for pickup but... this time... THIS time I should be done purchasing things. Sorta debating doing the rear main seal but Im was having a bear of a time getting the flywheel bolts off. Even with the breaker, Im twisting the entire engine backwards on its mounts until it hits the firewall. Kinda dont wanna mess with it any more than I have to if I dont have to right now. I still plan to either build or replace the engine within the next 12 months so I think Ill just run it as is for now. The bell housing looks like it was getting a bit of oil in it but nothing crazy.

Remaining project items:

• Clean up engine bay for final assembly
• Install injectors, oil lines, all OEM hoses
• Reinstall trans, intake, exhaust, etc
• Install fuel pump
• Install turbo mani/turbo/DP and connect up plumbing
• Make a heat sheild
• Learn how to tune a turbo car O_o
  
  Fun fact, a 6sp transmission weighs ~90 pounds. I expected at least 100.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Use an impact and a 6pt socket for the flywheel bolts. Impacts work better than breaker bars for many torqued bolts. Be sure to use loctite or rtv on the threads before re-torquing. I use an impact for tightening as well because I'm a heathen.

KevinK121

I dont have air tools unfortunately. Nor a big fancy boi electric. It would probably make for a solid investment, even used... Ill borrow one if/when I decided to get after it. The flywheel face is clean and free of glazing. I know its definitely best practice to get it resurfaced while Im in here but being I anticipate having to go in again by next winter, I'm going to plan to skip it for now. If for whatever terribly ungodly reason it slips on me, Ill have myself to blame I spose.

Just bought some insulation and steel zipties. The insulation hose being for the coolant lines and oil drain but Ill have excess for the brake line, oil stick and whatever else is in the area. My aluminum sheeting and steel stock is taking longer than I thought it would as well. Forgot about still needing to mount and route the IC and charge piping. Luckily thats a used set of FM softhose charge piping that I've already verified

x_25

Bend the hard coolant return pipe under the exhaust manifold to get the heater core hose as far toward the fire wall as you can.

KevinK121

Pretty close to my plan. That hard pipe is actually deleted with the Hawley mixing valve but Im building an aluminum heat shield.The original coolant hose will stay behind this shield entirely. The additional coolant hose from the turbo is going to be wrapped in braided insulation and route into that heat shield.

Kinda sucks that I bought the braided stuff. Going to have to disconnect the brake line to get the insulation over it. Spose I could take the extra 5/8" insulation and fold it over the hardline and add a couple of these steel zipties to keep it on. Either way I spose. Ill have plenty extra of both 3/8" and 5/8"

x_25

A couple layers of crumpled, heavy duty aluminim foil makes a great heat sheild. Lots of airgaps and minimal point contacts between the layers is the goal.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

You must have seen my car.

x_25

I actually learned this helping my friend's dad work on the Hawker Hunters that the owned. It's how the afterburner tube was insulated from the body....

I have been using it on my heater core hoses for now.

KevinK121

I was going to respond this day but I got lost working backwards from the last page of your thread heh. I got into the mid-30's before I saw the crinkly aluminum under and above the trans tunnel.