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How long is the WRC restrictor 2in wide? How long are the intercooler pipes 2in wide? Losses are real.
Don't get me wrong, I'm certain that 2 inch pipes could get to 400 horsepower, it just might take a lot more effort and therefore heat from the turbo to get there. If I was limited by some sort of rules for a particular racing series that would be one thing but for an open modification track build I would not consider it.
How long is the WRC restrictor 2in wide? How long are the intercooler pipes 2in wide? Losses are real.
Don't get me wrong, I'm certain that 2 inch pipes could get to 400 horsepower, it just might take a lot more effort and therefore heat from the turbo to get there. If I was limited by some sort of rules for a particular racing series that would be one thing but for an open modification track build I would not consider it.
The pressure drop based on volume flow rate, hence I was saying the higher boost the motor the less the 2" is an issue. If you're running 30+ psi to hit 400hp and have a pretty short and straight piping path 2" is enough. I calculated it on my 1.8 and thats why I went with 2", and I calculated it again when I went to the 2.5 MZR that would make 400hp with 12-18psi and went with 2.5" IC piping. And why on a v8 that only takes 4-6psi to hit 400hp you need 3 or 3.5" IC piping.
When I started testing the new engine I had stock fuel pump and aeromotive fpr, when I turned the key on (no crank) the fuel pressure would go up to 60psi~ and stay there...
After a day or two when I did that again I noticed the pressure would go to 60psi and then to 0.
I replaced the pump with a dw200 and the pressure acts the same, when the engine starts the fuel pressure is good and now tuned to 32psi~ idle and 43psi~ when on the throttle.
I have hard time cold starting and warm start is not perfect too, could be the 0 pressure before crank is to blame ? or just tune it ?
So you smoked the bearings in the turbo. I went back to see what turbo you had, and all I found was 5 pages of people telling you to not use that location for an oil feed, or risk the turbo AND head. Hope the head did ok.
live and learn I guess. Was looking forward to a dyno day.
So you smoked the bearings in the turbo. I went back to see what turbo you had, and all I found was 5 pages of people telling you to not use that location for an oil feed, or risk the turbo AND head. Hope the head did ok.
live and learn I guess. Was looking forward to a dyno day.
Oh he took it post oil restrictor? That's what they do in Australia right?
I've seen the size of the oil orifice in the top of the block at the head gasket where it feeds oil to the Head. It is already quite small. Taking a lot of that oil away from the cams and valves might be a bit of an issue. And if you have a journal bearing turbo that might limit your oil a little as well.
Originally Posted by nitrodann
We've done over 100 easily.
We have had a bunch apart years after doing them and the cam journals and all wear surfaces look normal.
It's a super clean way to do it and seems to work fine... But that's just like... my opinion, man.
Dann
Originally Posted by elior77
Thanks for the input Dan, I think I'll keep me sexy oil line
I think the oil source was not filtered, the new built engine and head must gave some debris and probably that caused the partial blockage that killed the turbo.
The classic oil source is better in a sense that it is after the filter, that is the only pro as far as I know for now.
03-08-2018, 06:38 AM
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