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in for -CATastrophic failure.. for 400 you are going to really want billet oil pump gears and a dampner. Its not about rpm, its about the power you are putting through the crank.
It really scares me that you are doing this yourself and you do not know what a keyway is and did not know that a 6 point socket really wont do the job for a 12 point head bolt. Thats super basic info.
I passed on the billet pump gears. Running a supermiata pully, it's just good practice. Everyone in the racing community rolls with one of these, **** breaks real quick at 400hp - I should know, I"m well over that figure.
Running a supermiata pully, it's just good practice.
I would like to point out that this is not the only damper choice. There has also been much debate on this forum about whether this is the best choice for a damper due to its methods for damping. I know it has been run with success on many race cars so I am sure it is adequate but there is more too the conversation.
I know at least two local 1.6 cars (97 and 00 - both euro cars obviously) that were in the 400+ hp region without dampers and billet pump gears. Both street racing cars, one of them would do like 25 pulls in one night straight. Lucky? Maybe so. I have billet gears on my engine and looking forward to a damper before I go over 500whp.
I got to do 11 pulls one Wednesday night and there must have been 150 cars running that night. I think it's usually closer to 250.
If you win you get to keep racing.
(edit)We race front 3:30 to 10 PM.
Last edited by sonofthehill; 01-24-2017 at 08:05 PM.
Reason: Added info
I have been to slow days too but usually when someone spews stuff all over the track. Also weekend and holiday events are usually pretty slow.
There is a drag race at Sonoma this weekend. I might try to show up early and maybe get 2 runs in before I get sick of waiting and go home.
Wednesday nights are all locals who just want as many passes as possible.
I noticed that the numbers on the rods do not match the numbers on the pistons and do not match the cylinder number... someone been there before ?
I mean there is a number on the rod like "2" and a number on the piston "3" it suppose to be rod 2 piston 2 in cylinder 2 ?
The timing gear was a beach to take out...I think I need a new one...
Everything looks very very good, the cylinders walls, the pistons and rings and the crank.
The machine shop will do all of the measuring for you. If any of the journals are polished, turned or the cylinders are honed or bored, your measurements will change.
I gave the engine to a professional builder.
The bores measure with in spec but since I get forged pistons 83.5mm I understand boring is a must.
Anyway this is the (regular) part list:
VVT 05 engine
wiseco pistons 83.5mm 8.6:1
ebay rods
arp main and head
OEM seals
new block plugs
Victor Haines headgasket
OEM bearings
ATI damper
Boundery pump
new water pump and timing kit
new valve stem seals
You might want to go for the FM2 clutch for the additional torque it holds over the FM1.
Put that clutch and flywheel combo in my kid's car and it just works....
I wouldn't want to drive it in LA traffic, but other than that it seems good to go.
Probably not good if you have sparrow legs....
I made 300 maxing out an eBay turbo. It wasn't efficient. The lag was annoying. I switched to EFR and the power is way more useable. If you want 400hp you want an EFR. btw, have you ever driven a 400hp miata? It's kinda scary...
01-24-2017, 11:42 AM
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