You can build a 400 WHP miata for cheap and it might last for a week. You will have to spend money if you want it to last.
- built engine a must (forged pistons and rods)
- head port-smoothing, polished chambers and de-shrouded valves
- BE oil pump gears
- ATI damper (ill say recommended because I don't have one for 5+ years)
- EFR 6258 and solid manifold (TSE or ArTECH)
- 3" exhaust
- intercooler (precision 650 or 300)
- injectors (FIC 650 or ID 700 or more)
- oil cooler
- programmable ECU (MS)
- solid tune

There is a such thing as too much power. A 200WHP is fun and manageable, a 300WHP miata is crazy fun and a 400WHP miata is stupid crazy. I'm going on 5 years with stupid crazy.
Hope this helps.

Edit: Once you are at that power level, then brakes, suspension, rollbar, seats and harness will keep you alive in case stupidity ensues.

I got sport brakes (and booster) with porterfield pads and ss lines.

I think ebay cast manifold and the right size ebay turbo is a good start.

I believe you have been "graciously" given solid advice many from people in this forum who have achieved though trial and error the power levels that you aspire to have. If you continue to disregard the advice from them then there is no need to continue posting in this forum. Good luck in your endeavors.

Why do you say that ?

Any mistakes with my build ?

VVT engine
wiseco pistons 83.5mm 8.6:1
ebay rods
BE oil pump
ATI damper
oem seals
oem HG
oem bearings
id1000
diypnp
ebay cast manifold
ebay turbo
6spd
NB lsd
sport brakes, booster and pump
breaks ss lines
fm1 or fm2 clutch
competition mounts
mishimoto rad
rerout

What's wrong here ?

Thanks

Okay, glad to see you are open to suggestions.
The specs looks ok except for:
ebay turbo
ebay manifold
These parts are questionable and are known to fail in the long run. Better to pay now than to pay more later.
What about the intercooler?

I got a good one, if IAT will show a bigger one is needed, I'll get one.

ARP head studs would be good.

Head studs as previously suggested

Make sure the rods have ARP hardware

Skip FM1, go with the FM2 clutch.

Don't use ebay; support the vendors who support the community

Skip the Mishimoto radiator for the SuperMiata Crossflow (I had a hell of a time getting the Mishimoto to stop leaking)

Don't break ss lines, but get ss brake lines (My old goodrich lines where too short in the front, my 949 lines seem are better)

I have a set of 949 Hybrid engine mounts (one comp mount, one race mount) that is collecting dust in my basement, PM me if interested, let it go cheap.

I don't see anything on valvetrain, though Soviet accomplished a lot on a stock head.

Better to buy a 1,500 dollar turbo than a 200 dollar one that might only last a few years. Besides you can't make serious power without a 4 digit pricetag turbo. Right?

:bowrofl:
Nah, can't make power that way

:laugh:

On the flip side, let's be realistic here:

if I go through your thread and quantify all the money and time you dumped on parts that didn't work, broke, or needed modification over the years, the number I'd end up with would probably be more than OP could pronounce

Made me spit my coffee. LOL!

True.

But for like 350 bucks he can buy a manifold and turbo that will make 300whp for years. It won't spool as nice as an EFR, or look as good, or impress as many people with the bling factor, but it will make boost and make power.

Fast Forward kits make power and boost too, but some of us have higher standards (for good reason)

Nothing wrong with spending money and building the best setup you can afford if that's your goal. I'm sure I could make more power with better turbos, but for the money my ebay turbos make good power. I wanted cheap and fast, not expensive and a little faster.

Just forgot to add the ARP studs, top and bottom, the rods came with ARP 2000 5/6" bolts.

The Mishimoto holds great for a few years now.

My SS brake lines are from garage star.

Maybe I'll do some porting and springs on the head - not sure yet.

ebay taco taco (?) manifold it will be, and the right size ball bearing vband ebay turbo.

Thanks Pat
Elior

I thought the thread title was indicating that he was currently sitting at 300 and trying to get to 400 at the crank, which should be about 350 rwhp after losses, no?

yes, Pat got 500hp~ with ebay manifold and turbo

:cjerk::m-freak::eek4dance:hsugh::ugh2::hatecat:

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

If you have read my build thread, I have two turbos to make the big power. That said the Gt3076 I run could for sure make 400whp. I ran it to 30 PSI before with just that turbo, and it would spin street tires on dry concrete to 90mph. But I didn't make 500whp with just that turbo.

Got my pistons :)

The engine will be ready soon, time to order more parts...

83.5mm
8.5:1

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da614abbb.jpeg

Head got surfaced and a rebuild, block machined to 83.5mm and surfaced, all engine parts got acid cleaned.
The crank is one mil smaller then spec - a decision will be made on sunday and the assembly.

Got the oil cooler adapter, oil pressure sensor and all the rest.

What ring gap should I go for ? it is a street car.
The rings manual says 0.050" I saw people go 0.043"... - aiming at 20-25psi of boost.
At what gap do they come from the manufacture ?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b4671b09c.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1309649e7.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9768a2767.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1570109ec.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa0dc94f8.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...641d89479.jpeg

Weisco XX rings? Follow the instructions. I know 100% that .0050 is wrong. It's a multiplication factor of the bore size.
I highly recommend having te machine shop gap the rings.

I was wrong with the numbers, the factor is 0.0050" the bore is 83.5mm=3.287" so my ring gap should be 0.0050"*3.287"=0.0164" right ?

Thanks

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...77dce45ea.jpeg

Getting somewhere

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21afa2bad1.png

Im surprised you bought your pistons after having the block bored. What is your piston to wall gap?

your pistons are in backwards.

Nope.

No they arent lol

The picture is from the back

It was an engine builder joke. first thing I tell everyone who just finished a build.

I actually did install 2 pistons backwards....:facepalm:

No they aren't.

Yes they are.

I like turtles

Dropped my heart there with the backward joke...





https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...113c973fe.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c83651db1.jpeg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d8359829.jpeg

I'll clean the head as much as I can and I'll shorten the oil filer threads there.

Next thing is getting the ARP2000 replacement for the con rod bolt that I broke with a bad torque wrench.

A double torque routine for head studs is a must ?

Thanks

Nice progress.

I use triple routine: 20, 40, 55-60 (depending on whether you're using lube or not)

I mean do the 25-45-65 twice... tight loose and tight again...

No don't do that, just multiple steps up to torque.
Don't loosen them unless you plan to change the head gasket.

loosening is a procedure on some cars, but definitely not a BP iirc

I got a few questions I hope you guys can answer:

1. Any real reason to get the Gates water pump with the cast impeller ? I got a regular one.
2. Do I need anything more then the stock replacement for the trigger wheel to go with the ATI damper ?

Thanks

Do you know why people do that? You answer will be pretty straight forward when you find the why instead of asking others to tell it to you. I have asked some people the question, but with those power goals you need to be clear on your failure modes on the car...you need to figure out what fail safes need to be put into place with respect to your ECU as well.

READ THIS. Also buying cheap EBAY stuff for 300+hp is not smart. It wont last. Like it says above...

A very long write in order not to answer anything.

Thanks.

My point is that you should know if this is your plan. Just encouraging you to look on mt.net. too much spoon feeding

The cast impeller is better. That's a decent reason.

Do you want to run a trigger pattern that is other than oem? If so, you need something other than a stock replacement trigger wheel. If not, then no.

The reason for non-stock trigger wheels is that they provide greater accuracy when the engine is accelerating quickly. The ECU only *knows* crank position when a tooth pulse comes through, and for spark/fuel events between tooth pulses it is estimating that position based upon what happened in the past. The more teeth there are, the more data the ECU has, the better the estimate it can make, and the less time it has estimate be syncing back onto a tooth. A stock wheel has 4 teeth, aftermarket wheels often have between 12 and 60 teeth.

In my experience with an MS3, while the NB's 4-tooth stock wheel is less than ideal, the benefits to a 12-1 or more wheel are relatively small. This is much less significant than the error inherent to a belt-driven cam angle sensor like an NA has. I run a stock 4-tooth wheel in order to make it simpler to swap back and forth between stock computer and MS3, and it hasn't proved to be a big deal.

--Ian

Guys which one should I get?
The better one.
Oh ok I got the worse one.
....
...

is -275 a negcat record? (that is still an active account)

How do you guys do it? I very much respect your willingness to help people on here especially answer the same questions. +1 cats from me!

Thanks man.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1e47f633a9.png

I noticed that I did not see the thing I circled when I disassembled the the head and it is not there when I reassemble it - critical ?

That is a locating dowel, and yes, it's critical. Bolts provide clamping force to hold the head and the block together, but the locating dowels make sure that they are aligned correctly.

--Ian

You want those so badly. Buy two. P/N: B630-10-306

Ordered - thanks.

I have put 2 or 3 motors together without those without any issues. You just have to make sure you line up the head perfectly when putting it on. ARP head studs make it much easier.

Thanks shuiend !

They were not 300+whp monster builds just so you are aware. One was a bone stock 1.6 with 303k miles on it. Other 2 were 1.8's, with one having low boost.