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-   -   300hp to 400hp upgrade (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/300hp-400hp-upgrade-91918/)

ryansmoneypit 09-07-2017 09:41 AM

manufactures dont add parts to assemblies for fun. They do it out of necessity.

Engi-ninja 09-07-2017 09:56 AM


Originally Posted by shuiend (Post 1438147)
I have put 2 or 3 motors together without those without any issues. You just have to make sure you line up the head perfectly when putting it on. ARP head studs make it much easier.

Be careful about this; dowel pins and their mating holes have positional tolerances on the order of 0.1 mm or less; it's impossible to get that magnitude of accuracy by eyeballing it. Also, the point of a dowel pin is so that the bolts don't have to locate the part, which allows the bolt holes to have a larger positional tolerance. This means that centering the through holes over the tapped holes may not actually be "perfectly lined up," even if it were possible to do that by eyeballing it. Finally, due to the very high tolerance involved, dowel pin machining is expensive, and usually avoided if at all possible; so when there is a dowel pin, there's a good reason for it. Just some things to keep in mind.

shuiend 09-07-2017 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by Engi-ninja (Post 1438160)
Be careful about this; dowel pins and their mating holes have positional tolerances on the order of 0.1 mm or less; it's impossible to get that magnitude of accuracy by eyeballing it. Also, the point of a dowel pin is so that the bolts don't have to locate the part, which allows the bolt holes to have a larger positional tolerance. This means that centering the through holes over the tapped holes may not actually be "perfectly lined up," even if it were possible to do that by eyeballing it. Finally, due to the very high tolerance involved, dowel pin machining is expensive, and usually avoided if at all possible; so when there is a dowel pin, there's a good reason for it. Just some things to keep in mind.

I mean all 3 of those cars are still running several years later. So I am not to worried about them. Its not something I generally do, but something I have done when not thinking about it or not having the dowels handy. The cars were all also running ARP head studs. So it was more of drop the head straight down, more then put it on and use bolts to line it up.

sonofthehill 09-07-2017 12:00 PM

I would not leave those out, you might not be as lucky as shuiend. They seem critical to me, I am running head studs but made sure to grab the dowel pins from my old block too.

elior77 09-10-2017 08:17 AM

They are on the way.

I cleaned some gasket maker from the oil pump and block mating place and I noticed that the pump is not level with the block - where the oil pan will sit.

On one side the pump is a little low and on the other side it is a little high, I'll take a picture when I 'll get home.

Not my engine just for reference:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e7f182077b.png

psyber_0ptix 09-10-2017 08:43 AM

You have the locating dowels on the pump? Otherwise, just let a generous amount of silicone sit for 5-10 minutes so it gets tacky and doesn't flow as easily, then throw the pan on.

elior77 09-10-2017 08:45 AM

It is a BE stage 2 pump... the only thing not attached to it was the o-ring - so I believe the locating dowels are there...

elior77 09-15-2017 11:34 AM

Gates vs china and sendblasted valve cover
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...65c72f50c0.jpg
Gates
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fde868de74.jpgChina
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cfdb00b522.jpgSendblast
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70c8ccb59b.jpg

elior77 09-22-2017 04:48 AM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...11a486b5a.jpegCompressor housing upgrade
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...035a9122b.jpegMore progress

elior77 09-25-2017 12:58 PM

I got an IC for over the rad setup, I need to relocate my dryer... any good tips ?

Thanks
Elior

elior77 10-01-2017 07:52 AM

I noticed my intake VVT camshaft dowel pin is almost flat with the camshaft....Should I be alarmed ?

The pic just for reference: (not my engine)

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ca66ecabfd.png

elior77 10-18-2017 04:23 PM

More progress...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...364e44ddd.jpeg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2a0d8b4df.jpeg

elior77 11-02-2017 12:26 PM

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...357caf742.jpeg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d60bcfbe3.jpeg

18psi 11-02-2017 12:29 PM

Looks nice. is that the msm orange paint?

Art 11-02-2017 04:27 PM

.

elior77 11-03-2017 03:02 PM


Originally Posted by 18psi (Post 1449319)
Looks nice. is that the msm orange paint?

No, got it from amazon

elior77 11-06-2017 04:28 PM

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...378ca7cbe.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e2ce2a82d.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e5f483918.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2067a6713.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4efd0b586.jpeg

Art 11-06-2017 05:19 PM

.

patsmx5 11-06-2017 05:21 PM


Originally Posted by Art (Post 1450049)
I'd try to use valve cover hoses with about twice the cross sectional area rather than threading in those AN fittings but I don't know what's necessary for 400 hp.

Yeap. I drilled out the crankcase side on mine, and pressed in a 1/2" ID tube and ran a 1/2" ID hose to it, with no sharp bends. The AN stuff looks pretty, but the crankcase side is likely no better than stock for flow from the fitting and sharp bend, and what looks no bigger than stock either.

elior77 11-07-2017 02:46 AM

Just for looks

sixshooter 11-07-2017 11:19 AM

Needs big holes

hi_im_sean 11-07-2017 11:30 AM

Hes going to run a vacuum pump guyths.

18psi 11-07-2017 11:34 AM

Who cares about function. All that matters is how pretty it looks

sixshooter 11-08-2017 07:09 AM


Originally Posted by sixshooter (Post 1450176)
Needs big holes

Needs gaping orifices

sonofthehill 11-08-2017 11:13 AM

Quoting yourself, nice :rofl:

Am I the only one who doesn't care how pretty it is, as long as it functions well?
Nevermind, obviously.

sixshooter 11-08-2017 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by sonofthehill (Post 1450500)
Am I the only one who doesn't care how pretty it is, as long as it functions well?

You're playing my song and I'm dancing. We're talking about 400whp here.

Needs cavernous openings

elior77 11-16-2017 03:05 PM

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea03b30af.jpeg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2345b9fbf.jpeg


Getting there

ysleem 11-16-2017 03:35 PM

Looks good!

psyber_0ptix 11-16-2017 04:10 PM

There's a provision for a banjo bolt on that side of the head? Did you just hog out that NPT fitting for some straight thread?

That's post oil restrictor, so is there any concern for starving the cam journals a bit?

Ted75zcar 11-16-2017 08:07 PM

Um, no. Would not do that. No.

Savington 11-16-2017 10:30 PM

lol no

concealer404 11-16-2017 10:37 PM

Who told you that was ok?

elior77 11-17-2017 09:14 AM

A Precision 6870 with the same feed line

Where would be a conviniate place to plug my oil temp sensor ? is it a GM closed element.

ysleem 11-17-2017 09:17 AM


Originally Posted by elior77
A Precision 6870 with the same feed line

Where would be a conviniate place to plug my oil temp sensor ? is it a GM closed element.

I put mine above oil drain port on oil pan. Yes closed element. Look at my thread for specific location

Ted75zcar 11-17-2017 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by elior77 (Post 1452168)
A Precision 6870 with the same feed line

Is his objective to simultaneously kill the head and turbo as well?

elior77 11-17-2017 11:14 AM

No, just nines

psyber_0ptix 11-17-2017 11:22 AM

Move your oil feed.

elior77 11-17-2017 11:56 AM

It is safe for the local drag cars so it is safe for me and btw:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cb87d2124a.png

concealer404 11-17-2017 11:57 AM

RIP OP's head and turbo. Stay safe OP.

elior77 11-17-2017 12:01 PM

I just go tell the local drag guys to move there oil line - I'll be back asap

concealer404 11-17-2017 12:06 PM

If you can't quantify the difference between what i think the intended use of your car is and that of a drag car, then you're beyond saving.

sixshooter 11-17-2017 01:40 PM

I've seen the size of the oil orifice in the top of the block at the head gasket where it feeds oil to the Head. It is already quite small. Taking a lot of that oil away from the cams and valves might be a bit of an issue. And if you have a journal bearing turbo that might limit your oil a little as well.

psyber_0ptix 11-17-2017 01:56 PM

Just because it can run, doesn't mean that it's correct or ideal. Sabotaging your lubrication for your quest to 400hp seems a bit counterintuitive.

Meh. I lost interest.

elior77 11-18-2017 03:10 AM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4cb8bfb770.png

psyber_0ptix 11-18-2017 11:15 AM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 1084924)
As clean as the head port is, I don't like it. The head is fed through a fairly small orifice, so the pressure/flow is already restricted, and pulling from that doesn't seem like a good idea (and the data that DKMakinson posted backs that up).

There's also the fact that Mazda went through the hassle of re-drilling and re-tapping those ports in the block when they did the MSM, instead of just pulling the oil from the head. We'll be sticking with a block feed for our kits.

It's been mentioned that the limited edition 01 turbo miatas by Mazda Australia isn't the same company that built the MSM.

Read Joe's last comment on that thread. It makes sense.

sonofthehill 11-18-2017 01:20 PM

I wouldn't do that. Look, the orifice in the block that feeds the head was sized to give the head proper flow. It is true that there's probably some over engineering, safety factor there :dunno: That would be like intentionally running a smaller oil feed restrictor than the correct size to your turbo. Just doesn't seem like the best idea to me.

Maybe oil flows better to the head in Oz :bowrofl:

nitrodann 11-18-2017 09:39 PM

We've done over 100 easily.

We have had a bunch apart years after doing them and the cam journals and all wear surfaces look normal.

It's a super clean way to do it and seems to work fine... But that's just like... my opinion, man.

Dann

elior77 11-19-2017 04:17 AM

Thanks for the input Dan, I think I'll keep me sexy oil line :)

patsmx5 11-19-2017 02:18 PM

I too have looked at that spot, and was gonna use it till I realized the whole block/restrictor thing and then I didn't. Interesting that others are running it without issue though. Has anyone measured oil pressure out of that spot? I can't imagine it being as high as pulling from the usual location.

nitrodann 11-19-2017 04:40 PM

You get a few litres a minute no prob.

Dann

elior77 11-21-2017 03:53 AM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e7f3eee14b.png

More progress, the engine is in not much left :)

psyber_0ptix 11-21-2017 06:54 AM

Might want to try AN Fuel Line adapters instead of electric tape.

Hey, check out those AN fuel line adapters if you don't already have them!


Edit: im crabby because enough people in my branch conveniently called out "sick" to the point where I'm sitting idle without support to finish projects.

I can't even doodle on SolidWorks because licenses haven't been updated.

sixshooter 11-21-2017 08:20 AM


Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix (Post 1452750)
Might want to try AN Fuel Line adapters instead of electric tape.

Don't get so caught up on the details, man.

lol

I was thinking the vacuum/boost reference line needed to be secured on the barb fittings when I saw it. I use small zip ties.

ryansmoneypit 11-21-2017 09:28 AM


Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix (Post 1452750)
I can't even doodle on SolidWorks because licenses haven't been updated.

Download Fusion 360, free for small business and students, about 99% of what solid works does with a very similar interface. I really like it.

DNMakinson 11-22-2017 08:24 AM

On the turbo oil feed. I have been running that for 10k street miles. Small journal turbo with a 1mm restrictor at the turbo feed. I have not pulled the valve cover since install.

I moved my OEM (1999) oil pressure switch to the head port on the opposite side. It always registers with the engine on, so that would indicate no less than 7psi at the head gallery.

I ran preliminary pressure tests on that port years ago, but Brain questioned my methodology.

Perhaps putting the gauge at the port where I now have my switch would be a good way to put this discussion to bed? Test pressure with and without the turbo feed, and that would tell if the head gallery is being starved.

elior77 12-04-2017 05:52 AM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7ef506111.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ce8b3dedb.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c6b08e3a.jpeg

sonofthehill 12-04-2017 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by DNMakinson (Post 1452966)
Perhaps putting the gauge at the port where I now have my switch would be a good way to put this discussion to bed? Test pressure with and without the turbo feed, and that would tell if the head gallery is being starved.

No. The only way to put this discussion to bed is to run a T for the pressure gauge while feeding your turbo from it as well. After doing what you suggested. Better make it a pressure sensor so you can log during actual operating conditions.

However Dan suggested that drag cars have gone many miles without issues in that configuration. I will run the block feed on the intake side personally.

elior77 12-04-2017 02:22 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...300881157.jpeg

18psi 12-04-2017 03:28 PM

are those rubber hoses? lololol

Girz0r 12-04-2017 03:32 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by 18psi (Post 1455072)
are those rubber hoses? lololol

You don't like balloons?

Attachment 230543


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