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All the races cars do it, you didn't know? Someone on the internet told me so.
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You're gonna have a bad day. Downpipe needs to be shielded from speedo/throttle cables, wires, brake lines, proportioning valve, and heater hoses when you are finished.
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Oil line is twisted and crimped at the turbo.
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I know I'll take care of that.
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What ever happened? All is well with the car I take it?
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Got the car started after a long year ! very happy :) now some wiring of all the new stuff I got on the engine and all is ready for dyno powaa
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...db96b70b7.jpegNA to NB coils harness https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5bccf6e32.jpegNA to EV14, dash clt, ecu clt and vvt harness https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...184e02308.jpegfirst time tuning the new engine :) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a3dcb6c32.jpegsome juice |
Originally Posted by Girz0r
(Post 1455075)
I do like how clean that intercooler piping is.Seems like I've seen that on another friends car? What kind of hoses are those? FM uses noodles, they claim they are good for 30psi I think they are 4 ply. |
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Have you test refitted the bonnet to confirm it will still close properly?
May be worth doing that before you put the hose clips on.... |
I couldn't get metal pipes to fit without interference on a shaved hood. I'm interested to see if this fits. is this 2" ?
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The pipes are 2", 90deg bend with a 2" radius... not easy and not cheap... test fitted, it all fits very well, this is one of three mx5 that get the same over the rad setup.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...19a08a05cf.jpg |
That's awesome. I wish it'd work with 2.25 and 2.5". Alas silicone for me.
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Will 2" support 400 HP?
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1470587)
Will 2" support 400 HP?
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1470587)
Will 2" support 400 HP?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1470619)
On a stock head 1.8 it ought to. Higher the boost you need to hit that power the less the smaller diameter will hurt you.
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Back of the envelope calculations say 2 inches should flow 400 hp easily. The WRC restrictor is 34mm, at ambient pressure, and it limits cars to 300 hp. 2 inches is 51mm, which is more than double the area of the WRC restrictor, plus the air flowing through those pipes is pressurized so you're getting more mass of air for a given volume.
--Ian |
How long is the WRC restrictor 2in wide? How long are the intercooler pipes 2in wide? Losses are real.
Don't get me wrong, I'm certain that 2 inch pipes could get to 400 horsepower, it just might take a lot more effort and therefore heat from the turbo to get there. If I was limited by some sort of rules for a particular racing series that would be one thing but for an open modification track build I would not consider it. |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3ef67b146.jpegGetting ready :)
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Thats a really neat way of doing the wiring.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1470651)
How long is the WRC restrictor 2in wide? How long are the intercooler pipes 2in wide? Losses are real.
Don't get me wrong, I'm certain that 2 inch pipes could get to 400 horsepower, it just might take a lot more effort and therefore heat from the turbo to get there. If I was limited by some sort of rules for a particular racing series that would be one thing but for an open modification track build I would not consider it. |
Temp IC setup,
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e40a35da2.jpegReady to boost When I started testing the new engine I had stock fuel pump and aeromotive fpr, when I turned the key on (no crank) the fuel pressure would go up to 60psi~ and stay there... After a day or two when I did that again I noticed the pressure would go to 60psi and then to 0. I replaced the pump with a dw200 and the pressure acts the same, when the engine starts the fuel pressure is good and now tuned to 32psi~ idle and 43psi~ when on the throttle. I have hard time cold starting and warm start is not perfect too, could be the 0 pressure before crank is to blame ? or just tune it ? Is there any one way valve the failed ? Thanks Elior |
Normal behavior afaik for the pressure. There is no check valve to prevent the pressure from going down after prime.
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Turbo is dead :\ there was a little metal flack in the restrictor... could be the oil supply was interrupted...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e24095c1b.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1260973f7.jpeg Turbo will some times spin normally and then stop and have a difficult point (all by hand) Ordered a different one, maybe I'll get CHRA for this one. Was there any way to avoid that damage ? I run fine before boost, now it sound like a police siren when running. The first oil filter came out ok, with very little metal dots if any. Elior |
So you smoked the bearings in the turbo. I went back to see what turbo you had, and all I found was 5 pages of people telling you to not use that location for an oil feed, or risk the turbo AND head. Hope the head did ok.
live and learn I guess. Was looking forward to a dyno day. |
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1474306)
So you smoked the bearings in the turbo. I went back to see what turbo you had, and all I found was 5 pages of people telling you to not use that location for an oil feed, or risk the turbo AND head. Hope the head did ok.
live and learn I guess. Was looking forward to a dyno day. Oh he took it post oil restrictor? That's what they do in Australia right? |
You think it's the oil feed source location that caused the failure ?
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5 pages of people telling you it would fail. It failed. What do you think?
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1452234)
I've seen the size of the oil orifice in the top of the block at the head gasket where it feeds oil to the Head. It is already quite small. Taking a lot of that oil away from the cams and valves might be a bit of an issue. And if you have a journal bearing turbo that might limit your oil a little as well.
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1452425)
We've done over 100 easily.
We have had a bunch apart years after doing them and the cam journals and all wear surfaces look normal. It's a super clean way to do it and seems to work fine... But that's just like... my opinion, man. Dann
Originally Posted by elior77
(Post 1452435)
Thanks for the input Dan, I think I'll keep me sexy oil line :)
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I think the oil source was not filtered, the new built engine and head must gave some debris and probably that caused the partial blockage that killed the turbo. The classic oil source is better in a sense that it is after the filter, that is the only pro as far as I know for now. 800$ turbo dead. Next please :) allready ordered |
Well, and as you were told for 5 pages, it has better flow. That's also a pro.
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As far as I tested the flow is now issue. |
Well there we have it. its not a problem. Put the new turbo in and leave all the other stuff just like you had it. Do it for science.
Backing out now, I dont want this retardation to spread to my brain. |
Works fine. My turbo is trashed because of it, but it works fine.
Oh ok. |
you guys still haven't figured out that he's special?
The feed line is not his only problem. in fact, it's probably the least of his problems. |
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1474352)
Works fine. My turbo is trashed because of it, but it works fine.
Oh ok. |
Originally Posted by elior77
(Post 1474359)
As I wrote, there was a blockage in the restrictor, the flow is fine from the head, I tested it. |
The turbo shop told me that there was no problem with the oil feed - the problem is external object that hit the compressor impeller - why no filter ? stupid me...
Well, https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...958c015b3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4eb85aac3.jpeg more progress on the ignition system: |
Nice bracket
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Originally Posted by elior77
(Post 1474511)
The turbo shop told me that there was no problem with the oil feed - the problem is external object that hit the compressor impeller - why no filter ? stupid me...
more progress on the ignition system: |
So, no oil feed blockage even though you saw something caught in the restrictor?
No air filter element and something went through the compressor? I'd look inside the intercooler for it. |
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Thanks
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Got my coils ready :)
Turbo is coming in today :) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e65e12d76.jpeg |
Turbo is on - I took it for first ride :)
I noticed I can not log the crank process - the ecu will turn off and on and off... etc any idea ? Thanks |
Is your battery healthy?
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yes, I'll try again, could be the accessories connected to the ecu take too much current ?
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Shouldn't. I had to replace my battery just recently. Never had the symptoms you're experiencing though. Are all your connections good?
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1 Attachment(s)
Attached a log file of a crank I could log,
Sync lost reason: 31,32 31 = Miata 99-00 - 2 cams not seen 32 = Miata 99-00 - 0 cams seen .... |
cam sensor/ wiring is bad
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31 and 32 mean the cam and/or crank signals are not getting received properly. There's actually no difference in the codes, bad signals on either one can trigger it. It could be noise, but if it worked before and you didn't change anything then most likely it's a failing cam sensor.
--Ian |
1 Attachment(s)
A failing cam sensor will have hard time when cranking and when the engine is running it will work fine ?
Here are some cranking logs and a short video. Thanks for the answers Elior Crank video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/imbqy9p14o...crank.mp4?dl=0 |
The hard start was solved by adjusting the gap between the sensor and the trigger wheel.
**Update** A very expensive lesson learned, low octane and high boost do not mix. Piston 4 melted. The car is in the shop for a rebuild. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...19a092da0.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bc9b593da.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...599f3c6ce.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aac22a858.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...13dedbf36.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7ef77ea89.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0f38c6b0a.jpeg Pre-Ignition :( Will update soon. |
Originally Posted by elior77
A very expensive lesson learned, low octane and high boost do not mix.
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Any rule of thumb ?
octane vs boost ? |
Have at least as much as you need. Always worked for me.
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