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So my miata got a hand me down intercooler from my rx7 today.
The rx7 needs a different intercooler when i it's going to get a 20b and v-mount.
Its a Greddy 3 row specR intercooler, the core is 600mm x 264mm x 100mm.
Going to build new end tanks, just wanted to see how it fits.
A 9K BP is a terrible idea, IMO. Its going to be a 10 hour motor with the best off the shelf parts, even my 8500rpm motor built by trackspeed was living on borrowed time. That, the vibrations, and the transmission limitation is why I went to a different engine. You're going to struggle to both keep bearings in the bottom end and keep valve seats and valves in the head. And even worse you're going to have a hard time not having everything bolted to the motor disintegrate, the bp is quite an unpleasant engine.
A 9K BP is a terrible idea, IMO. Its going to be a 10 hour motor with the best off the shelf parts, even my 8500rpm motor built by trackspeed was living on borrowed time. That, the vibrations, and the transmission limitation is why I went to a different engine. You're going to struggle to both keep bearings in the bottom end and keep valve seats and valves in the head. And even worse you're going to have a hard time not having everything bolted to the motor disintegrate, the bp is quite an unpleasant engine.
A high rpm engine will never last as long as a low rpm engine, i know this, but i really want to try and build a badass BP engine, i know the easy way would be to drop in a honda engine.
What crank shaft did you run in the engine and how good was the engine balanced?
A little update,
Started to cad up the new front sway bar mounts and cut of the end tanks on the intercooler.
The Greddy specR intercooler looks to me like a hybrid cooler between bar and plate, and tube and fin.
What do you guys think?
That's nothing more than a standard tube/fin CAC. Those are very wide tubes and looked to be extruded. Reason I say they are extruded (not welded) tubes is the internal support rib. The rib in the tube is likely there to give structural support to pass pressure cycle requirements.
A high rpm engine will never last as long as a low rpm engine, i know this, but i really want to try and build a badass BP engine, i know the easy way would be to drop in a honda engine.
What crank shaft did you run in the engine and how good was the engine balanced?
Stock crank, you have to ask savington how well it was balanced, I'm sure he did a great job. Getting the bottom end to survive is probably the easiest and cheapest part. I know my motor was struggling to keep an oil film on the bearings, either just by the type of forces involved on such a narrow bearing journal or because crank flex was letting a lot of oil spill out that shouldnt have been. I'm sure drilling out and chamfering all the oil passages on the crank and running a boundary race pump would have made a significant impact in the life expectancy and of course running it with actual race oil and not T6 for its whole life would have helped too. Its not like the motor is dead but the current owner of it knows it was run hard and that he should keep his rpms down to get a few more years out of it.
Head wise is where it'll get expensive, I know TNTuba has some trick parts up there that he wont share with anyone, but I also dont think he is even spinning to 8.5k like I was. But with the best supertech parts, stock lifters, cams, and valve seats the intake stuff just pounds itself into submission. Maybe ferrara still makes their TI valves and you can get some custom BeCu valve seats. With DLC on everything. And run the valve stems the right length to use the 2zz shimless lifters since they're lighter than the off the shelf subs. And pacalloy or PSi springs.
And then not killing stuff bolted to the motor (manifolds, fuel rails, manifold studs, etc) is really just a game of wait for it to break then re-make it heavier so it wont break again.
Since My build and kim inglars build are both a few years old now EInar needs to exceed us but should bring the average power in our workshop for mx5 over 400whp
Really looking forward to seeing how this build works as we have 10years on my 400+ build already with a very good reliable setup.
Looks like a good tube and fin to me, don't see anything on it bar and plate
Originally Posted by Padlock
That's nothing more than a standard tube/fin CAC. Those are very wide tubes and looked to be extruded. Reason I say they are extruded (not welded) tubes is the internal support rib. The rib in the tube is likely there to give structural support to pass pressure cycle requirements.
Ok. Only reason i wondered was that i have never seen a tube and fin intercooler with so thin fins.
The ones i have seen where much coarser.
Stock crank, you have to ask savington how well it was balanced, I'm sure he did a great job. Getting the bottom end to survive is probably the easiest and cheapest part. I know my motor was struggling to keep an oil film on the bearings, either just by the type of forces involved on such a narrow bearing journal or because crank flex was letting a lot of oil spill out that shouldnt have been. I'm sure drilling out and chamfering all the oil passages on the crank and running a boundary race pump would have made a significant impact in the life expectancy and of course running it with actual race oil and not T6 for its whole life would have helped too. Its not like the motor is dead but the current owner of it knows it was run hard and that he should keep his rpms down to get a few more years out of it.
Head wise is where it'll get expensive, I know TNTuba has some trick parts up there that he wont share with anyone, but I also dont think he is even spinning to 8.5k like I was. But with the best supertech parts, stock lifters, cams, and valve seats the intake stuff just pounds itself into submission. Maybe ferrara still makes their TI valves and you can get some custom BeCu valve seats. With DLC on everything. And run the valve stems the right length to use the 2zz shimless lifters since they're lighter than the off the shelf subs. And pacalloy or PSi springs.
And then not killing stuff bolted to the motor (manifolds, fuel rails, manifold studs, etc) is really just a game of wait for it to break then re-make it heavier so it wont break again.
Ok. then i just have to wait and see. I do have the boundary oil pump and a billet moldex crank, so it should not flex.
And a lot of goddies in the head. but time will see how long it survives.
A small update.
Got some new parts for the car and engine.
Six pot trackspeed engineering front brakes, they really are beautifull.
And hollow, BIG *** cams, they are really light
The most extreme miata (BP) build I have ever seen....
billet moldex crank ??
9000rpm ??
head flow bench ??
toque plate for a BP ??
wtf ?
dead serious dude !
good job !!
Thank you.
It's the first time i have ever built an piston engine for my self, i have always been a rotary guy until the miata tricked me to fall in love with it.
Got some more work done today,
Reinforced the differential housing and glass blasted it.
Cut out some 5mm aluminium pieces and welded them to the housing.
Now it will get a heat cycle in the curing oven, to get rid of any tension after welding and
normalize the aluminium again.
3
but should bring the average power in our workshop for mx5 over 400whp 
