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1800 does not sound like a terribad price, either. Sounds like they could save tons of broken parts
That is the idea. I helped build a saab 9,3 racecar some years ago. it dynoed 580 whp at the front wheels, and it broke CV joints all the time.
After a year in racing and braking a lot of CV joints, we ordered this type of axels for the car to match the original CV joints.
After that the car newer broke a CV joint again. so it really works.
But will they keep 6speed tranny gears from blowing up?
That is a good question. It will help with removing the worst shocks to the drivetrain.
launching, gearing, curb hopping etc..
But when the drivetrain is fully loaded up the torque is still there, so yes i hope and belive it will help, but if you are running over 350ft-lb to the wheels the 6 speed will eventually brake under load. not while shifting and wheel hop, etc.
But a lot of high power (1000whp+) scandinavian drag cars, drift cars and track cars use these type of axels. And the producer says that no one has ever broken them.
You order them for the maximum horsepower you wil ever run and they make them to spec.
if you order 1500 whp axels for your 400 whp miata they will not twist like they should and then they will be like any other axel.
My axels are the smallest axels GKN has ever made.
Im running a 450hp vvt car with a stock 6 speed on a time attack build, torque is 330ftlb and we solid mounted the engine and the gearbox with a crossmember, holding up great so far. I think removing the torsional and bending force which the PPF brings helps.
The reason I believe this is the 5 speed is internally not a lot weaker but the case is, so if its case flex killing the 5 speed I figure even less flex on a 6 speed will help it survive.
The tower brace is finally finished.
Shortened a strut bar from a bmw e30 and made brackets for it.
I also noticed that both bottom plates was bendt, so i made new bottom plates in 5mm that suronds the tower.
And i made stiffening plates on the opposite side of the tower bar to try to stiffen it up as much as possible.
I also welded on some plug wire mounts on the underside of the bmw bar.
Made a fan shroud for the Supermiata radiator in 2mm 6082 aluminium.
i use one 13 inch Spal fan, so i made 10 holes with draft flaps.
So hopefully it flows enough air when the fan is of.
they are hollow (gun drilled) shafts that can twist up to 360 degrees and still turn back to true.
24mm outside dia with a 11mm hole.
Yeah you're smoking crack. Magic says a ø24mm x ø11mm x 21" long (for ~1440gram) steel shaft will bend around 10° before it won't come back. 360° is like 38x past typical steel yield strengths.
-How much open area above the I/C do you have in that ducting for the radiator? The curves you have in there would generate velocity changes in the air mass, which means pressure differentials. That disrupts flow.
It also looks like a choke point, being smaller than the bumper opening. Or maybe it just looks that way. I would suggest reworking the upper surface of that duct to make a single arc from the bumper skin to rad core. Make sure it's continuously divergent so the
air mass doesn't slow or change speeds much before hitting the rad.
-The damper on the diff pinion never lasts on our cars much past 200whp on track. We just remove them ahead of time.
- Unless you are hard parking with A/C, you will not need the fan shroud. It will significantly restrict flow when moving. That big Spal fan by itself will be plenty. Hood vents are the last ingredient.
-Since you are revving so high, you might consider an EWP. Much easier to control temps and things flying off the front the engine. I think Madjak has his reverse flow. Not sure that's a great idea but the point is, increasing coolant velocity and matching it to thermal load is a good thing.
It's not legal in the primary class our car is built for or we would run an EWP. Our next car with billet crank and bigger turbo will have it (and the radiator in the trunk).
Agreed on the full CNC head philosophy. Half the fun is making big power with a lowly BP. The K24 bottom/K20 head has far more power potential but that's extra cost and work to do. By the time you have built a BP head from scratch, you could have just dropped an LSX in.
Easier to just add more boost
- I assume you have sonic tested the block. Never had an issue with ring sealing on F/I but we always stick with small bore. Only using large bores for N/A builds. 9000 RPM N/A builds with big bores we have seen ring sealing issues. I suspect block flex, dunno.
regarding the fan shroud. i made a shroud for the twin spal fans on mine, and found that i had heat issues on track with at gt3076r running 30psi boost. i will try removing the shroud , and then probably venting the bonnet. already have the supermiata radiator and decent ducting.
Yeah you're smoking crack. Magic says a ø24mm x ø11mm x 21" long (for ~1440gram) steel shaft will bend around 10° before it won't come back. 360° is like 38x past typical steel yield strengths.
But if they work, cool.
Good thing they're not made of typical steel. Here's a video of the same type of axle flexing in a hydraulic press. Try this with any other type of axle shafts
-Since you are revving so high, you might consider an EWP. Much easier to control temps and things flying off the front the engine. I think Madjak has his reverse flow. Not sure that's a great idea but the point is, increasing coolant velocity and matching it to thermal load is a good thing.
It's not legal in the primary class our car is built for or we would run an EWP. Our next car with billet crank and bigger turbo will have it (and the radiator in the trunk).
- I assume you have sonic tested the block. Never had an issue with ring sealing on F/I but we always stick with small bore. Only using large bores for N/A builds. 9000 RPM N/A builds with big bores we have seen ring sealing issues. I suspect block flex, dunno.
I might be doing a short run of some billet blanking plates for the EWP if anyone wants one. I need to make another one for my spare engine so I figure I may as well get a few more made. Also in terms of reverse flow I've found absolutely no issues with trapped air. Feeding the water in at both ends at full speed pretty much blasts any air in head out through the block. I also think that it has freed up a heap of power north of 8000rpm. I have yet to dyno the engine but since the mechanical pump was removed the engine is just egging me to rev it. I don't get that feeling that resistance anymore.
In terms of block, mine is grouted and whilst I'm only running 84mm pistons I think the bores are holding up really nicely. I've been thinking of pushing out the bore a bit more to get a few more cc.
Also I'm really interested in how the high duration cams work with the turbo. I'm thinking similar duration might work well for a extreme Rotrex build.
-How much open area above the I/C do you have in that ducting for the radiator? The curves you have in there would generate velocity changes in the air mass, which means pressure differentials. That disrupts flow.
It also looks like a choke point, being smaller than the bumper opening. Or maybe it just looks that way. I would suggest reworking the upper surface of that duct to make a single arc from the bumper skin to rad core. Make sure it's continuously divergent so the
air mass doesn't slow or change speeds much before hitting the rad.
-The damper on the diff pinion never lasts on our cars much past 200whp on track. We just remove them ahead of time.
- Unless you are hard parking with A/C, you will not need the fan shroud. It will significantly restrict flow when moving. That big Spal fan by itself will be plenty. Hood vents are the last ingredient.
-Since you are revving so high, you might consider an EWP. Much easier to control temps and things flying off the front the engine. I think Madjak has his reverse flow. Not sure that's a great idea but the point is, increasing coolant velocity and matching it to thermal load is a good thing.
It's not legal in the primary class our car is built for or we would run an EWP. Our next car with billet crank and bigger turbo will have it (and the radiator in the trunk).
Agreed on the full CNC head philosophy. Half the fun is making big power with a lowly BP. The K24 bottom/K20 head has far more power potential but that's extra cost and work to do. By the time you have built a BP head from scratch, you could have just dropped an LSX in.
Easier to just add more boost
- I assume you have sonic tested the block. Never had an issue with ring sealing on F/I but we always stick with small bore. Only using large bores for N/A builds. 9000 RPM N/A builds with big bores we have seen ring sealing issues. I suspect block flex, dunno.
Hi Emilio.
The intercooler sits 5cm from the radiator, so it is a little tight but the ducting is 100% sealed between them.
The ducting in the bumper opening is 600mm x 160mm, it never gets smaller after that.
Since this is more a street car/weekend track car than a full blown racecar, i'm going keep the factory plastic bumper bar.
That's why the ducting looks like this between the intrcooler and radiator.
Norwegian MOT controls are very strict on original safty items, so keeping the bar makes my life easier when the car has to go to controls.
The fan shroud is just a test to see how good or bad the draft flaps work. if they don't work i i will drop the fan shroud.
The car will have hood vents or a full post radiator duct if i have enough room.
I agree on the water pump, a EWP is a great option I run one on my rx7.
but i will try with the stock water pump first. If it can't handle the rpm or keep the engine cool enough i will buy a EWP and make an adapter plate
The block is sadly not sonic tested, i haven't found a company in Norway that does this.
So i just have to hope it doesn't have any cracks.
I might be doing a short run of some billet blanking plates for the EWP if anyone wants one. I need to make another one for my spare engine so I figure I may as well get a few more made. Also in terms of reverse flow I've found absolutely no issues with trapped air. Feeding the water in at both ends at full speed pretty much blasts any air in head out through the block. I also think that it has freed up a heap of power north of 8000rpm. I have yet to dyno the engine but since the mechanical pump was removed the engine is just egging me to rev it. I don't get that feeling that resistance anymore.
In terms of block, mine is grouted and whilst I'm only running 84mm pistons I think the bores are holding up really nicely. I've been thinking of pushing out the bore a bit more to get a few more cc.
Also I'm really interested in how the high duration cams work with the turbo. I'm thinking similar duration might work well for a extreme Rotrex build.
Thanks for the offer.
But if i go the EWP route i will make my own billet blanking plate.
This engine will have 84,5mm bore, so we just have to see how it holds up.
Well only time will tell how it will work with the cams, if they turn out to work really well you can order them at cat cams in the Uk.
But they will not turn around in a original bp head, but you have access to a mill
Thanks for the offer.
But if i go the EWP route i will make my own billet blanking plate.
This engine will have 84,5mm bore, so we just have to see how it holds up.
Well only time will tell how it will work with the cams, if they turn out to work really well you can order them at cat cams in the Uk.
But they will not turn around in a original bp head, but you have access to a mill
Im using a 84.5mm bore on my BP. Granted Im not running 9000rpm and 30psi of boost but its doing just fine at 7400 with 18psi.
Any reason you opted for such a huge gap between the IC and the rad? I thought 10-15mm (+ducting or foam strips) would suffice?
I have a steel pipe going between the frame rails between the intrcooler and radiator.
And the radiator only gets air trough the intercooler, so if i had more room i would make the space even bigger to get more air flow to the top of the radiator.
Got the oil catch breather can done today.
It has a vertical wall drop and 4 (floors) with 180 degree turns with diffusers, so the oil fumes has a lot of area to stick to before the filters.
Completed the new fuel rail for the miata today, it.s not billet and pretty but it will get the job done.
Made a custom one for my 1300cc ASNU injectors.
AN-6 dual inlets and a AN-6 single outlet, and a port for a Radium engineering fuel pulse damper.
Have finally got started on the engine to header flange.
the back side of the flange is now done, just have to make a aluminium holder so i can get the other side milled as well.
And had to put some AN hose ends and the fuel pulse damper on the fuel rail to see how it would look.
The fuel rail will get the same black wrinkle powder coat as the valve cover.
09-04-2018, 02:36 AM
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