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I fixed your yt link as IB was being stupid with it. Video is good. I will make sure I also post it on my site along with your dyno. I couldn't even tell you were doing a pull it was so quiet.
Not dead, just been busy with OTM. Had a kid. Put in a new driveway. Converting an old barn into a shop. Building a nice rods only NA8/VVT motor. Ya know, stuff.
I took a pile of parts in to the machine shop today. This will be a rods only '97 block with a VVT head. Even though I have a free set of ARP head studs for this build, I decided to not do ARP mains or aftermarket pistons in an attempt to mechanically bake in some self restraint. I'm intending to keep the power below the 250/250 threshold forever. Going with a supermiata organic sprung on an OE 1.8 fly this time around because I got tired of the feel of a cheap 10 lb 1.6 fly on an ACT.
Of course, if the machine shop comes back and says I need to bore up to aftermarket pistons, I'll throw in the ARP mains as well. May as well at that point. I just know I won't be able to resist the evil boost bug if I build the bottom end full stout.
The pad got poured and sealed for the new shop. It's a funky shaped space (12'x36') because it used to be 3 livestock stalls. Next up is wiring and insulation. I'm going to clad the inside walls with primered T1-11.
Engine builder said the pistons were shot, and the bore should get cleaned up, so I guess we're going full built bottom end here. 8.6:1 83.5mm ST/Wiseco's & some ARP main studs have been ordered.
Engine builder said the pistons were shot, and the bore should get cleaned up, so I guess we're going full built bottom end here. 8.6:1 83.5mm ST/Wiseco's & some ARP main studs have been ordered.
Nope. It was a mystery motor. I got it for a song because the PO had started a HG job, and had no idea what he was doing. I had seen a couple score marks in the carbon buildup on the head of one piston like maybe he tried to sand it with sandpaper or something ridiculous? I told the builder I had no idea what to expect in terms of the health of the pistons/bores. The bores only had a 0.003" taper, so .5mm oversize is enough oversize. He called while I was driving, so I didn't get a ton of detail from him. When I go to pick it up, I'll ask about what was his deciding factor to scrap the pistons.
What do you guys do when replacing the coolant lines on the intake side that run from the back of the head through the oil warmer, IAC, etc? Is 5/16" fuel line bendy enough? The replacement hose kits are way more expensive than even nice fuel hose.
I got my engine back from the builder. This seems like a good time to recap the state of this build. This is what it will look like once the new motor gets swapped in:
Stock VVT head
VICS IM
83.5mm supertech/wisecos
Manley rods
ACL bearings
ARP main & head studs
boundary oil pump (haven't bought one yet, but it's planned)
Begi DIY coolant reroute
Mkturbo
FF injectors
CX IC/eBay type S
EBCS
Innovate LC2 WBO2
GM IAT
MSPNP3
Poly bushings (SADFab bronze retrofit coming soon to a Miata near me)
Depowered rack
Paco adjustable RUCA'S
ELBJ'S
949 endlinks
15/16" RB FSB
HD deuce
FM butterfly
Cannon brace
Advanti S2 15x8
Conti extremecontact sport 205/50
OE 1.8 flywheel
949 sprung organic clutch
5 speed
4.1 torsen
Puny OE 1.6 brakes
Last edited by wackbards; 01-20-2018 at 10:09 PM.
Reason: Engine porn
This is the first time I've even measured caster. I measured camber at opposite lock, subtracted, then multiplied by 1.43. not sure how accurate this actually is, but it was consistent side to side.
First, I have poly bushings, extended lower ball joints, and Paco adjustable rear upper control arms. All those make it easier. I use the string method to set toe, a carpenter's square and some calipers to measure camber, a cheap camber tool to measure caster, and a fabric ruler to measure pinch weld height.
When you measure camber, set the carpenter's square up against the center of your wheel and measure the distance between the square and the lip of your wheel at the top and again at the bottom. The delta is used to calculate camber along with the exact diameter of your wheel at the rim where you took your measurements. Then just run the Pythagorean theorem (or just use an online calculator) to get camber angle.
FYI, advanti S1's in 15" are 412.75 mm at the outside edge of the lip.
07-03-2017, 02:06 PM
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