I think a 300whp 2560 would be totally epic. I mean, riding in Dillon's (Erat) car at just 14psi before he built his motor, that car was damned impressive and the spool was virtually instant. It felt so gutsy! I'm going to feel very tempted to drop to a smaller turbo over the next year... but I probably won't :D

I just don't have the skill to handle more boost/HP than my current low boost setup. Ain't even hard for me to admit that.

I can handle it just fine on the street, but autox/track is just a waste of rubber and brake pads until I get better muscle memory and experience.

Part of me still wants to get the GTX CHRA, and run it in low boost mode, as my Potatoes response was pretty damn quick. I know it isn't in its "efficiency island G-spot", but lag was pretty negligible.

The other part wants to do as someone else stated, used 2560. After im happy with it, sell my ARTech manifold and downpipe for baller manifold and vband 6258, crack open a beer at the thought of not messing with awkward bolt/nut bullshit.

This plan... I likes it. Mucho.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422389550

I feel you on that one. I'm actually worried the monster I'm building is going to be a little more than I can handle :giggle:

I like this plan.

My only regret is that I bought in too early for the EFR and I've got the T25 inlet. My only consolation is that no one seems to be having problems with them.

You'll be fine if you put the proper rubber/wheels/suspension on the car to handle it. My car finally feels dialed with the 15x9s and RC1s. More driver oriented traction issues now rather than mechanical grip issues.
If you put the TSE studs in, which I know you will since you have the "quality sickness" like I do, you shan't need to worry. When I removed the nuts they hadn't budged an inch. There was barely any pressure on the retaining clips which means they hadn't vibrated loose even a mm.
So this plan....someone, and until they decide to commit, will go nameless. SOMEONE is tempting me with changing said plan, with the idea of selling my manifold & downpipe to help lessen the burden of potentially doing it my usual one and done solution(vband manifold/turbo/downpipe), rather than the staged upgrade solution we all were agreeing upon.

Saying that, since I haven't had time to research it; what is a fair used market price for my ARTech manifold and downpipe? I haven't the slightest.
-Divorced GT 5 bolt downpipe with V-band midpipe coupler
-T25 log(Ithink) manifold with TSE studs/nuts
-both recently machined flat
-both in near perfect condition

I can't answer your question, but would like to call attention to the statements regarding your turbo studs.

While it's true that they haven't backed out or loosened at all, and likely wouldn't have, it doesn't seem to me that your testing is necessarily thorough. You did a couple AutoXs and some street pulls, but no track days, which is where people typically run into problems.

Just pointing that out.

Didn't Andrew track test inconel to the point where it wasn't any superior to V-band in the holding department. V-band will always be easier to use but I thought the inconel thing fixed his problems. Also the track days weren't the problem, it was the 6-9 seconds below SM records that Andrew was running that killed him.

I don't know if it solved his problems, I'm pretty sure Andrew's turbo cars were all on Absurdflow V-band setups before he stopped running turbo cars. It's pretty widely regarded that it's the way to solve the problems without going Vband, but I'm just pointing out that in this particular case, just because he hasn't had any issues with the studs doesn't mean he won't -- he hasn't subjected them to the environment where issues typically arise.

They'll probably be fine. Just making an observation really.

Quite true, I probably have not tested the TSE studs in an environment where they would start to back out.

Just stating I'm happy with them, and trying to make Andrew more money! ;)
*I am in no way affiliated with TSE inc. ;)*

We put Inconel studs in the appropriate environments to test them before they were sold. VagaXT's MSM was one of our test cases. The only issues I've ever seen with them can all be traced to damaged threads in the manifolds - if you put the stud in with fresh threads and Resbond, it stays put, every time.

V-bands are not the end-all be-all of turbo reliability. After switching in 2009, I destroyed a CHRA when the undersized TiAL CHRA hardware came loose, then after switching that hardware to Inconel and spending $100 having all 6 bolts drilled for safety wire, the CHRA itself yielded and slightly loosened the turbine housing anyway. The person I sold that setup to got the third new CHRA I bought for that setup.

My next turbo setup will be an EFR6258, T25 inlet with M8x1.25 studs in our alloy. The studs already exist.

If you don't mind sharing why m8 over m10?

So what I'm reading into your statement Andrew is that the CHRA fasteners are the weak link if vband or your studs are properly in place.

Makes me scratch my head as to why I had a CHRA failure even though all my fasters were tight. Luck of the draw? No drain or feed blockage present in either coolant or oil.

I know, the set you sold me is still sitting on my workbench. Mocking me. They are quite pretty.
I can field that one... its because the nuts for the 10mm studs are a little too big for the space available on the manifold. As it is, the 8mm ones are a squeeze. See my build thread for tungsten carbide vs stainless EFR housing action.

I'm guessing there is not enough material on the turbine housing to grind enough clearance for the M10?

Similar experience with the TiAL hardware/housing.. After some odd boost fluctuations we rolled my car off the dyno to inspect. Found a couple of small bolts laying on the ground. Turns out the housing hardware had backed itself completely out and the housing was only held in place by the downpipe and wastegate tube. Luckily we caught it but things could have gone very wrong.

Fitment. Our original M10 stud was designed for Bell and FM manifolds and GT2560Rs, which can fit the larger stud. The EFR does not easily fit an M10 stud, so we built an M8 stud to fit it.

I wasn't going to try. It was way more material removal than I felt comfortable doing, so I asked about M8

If you want a 2560, I have one for sale. Or, at least, I will as soon as I get off my lazy ass and take the CHRA up to ATP and swap it for a new one.

--Ian

DING DING DING!

Don't do it. For us poor folk with 200hp we need people like you who can run 25lbs for us.