25 psi?

 

It's not close to your EFR craziness, but the car was tuned(as the P.O. stated) "conservatively" at 25 psi so I think it is a good baseline.

For the few days I had the car it was some of the most fun I've had in a car when flooring it in 3rd gear. Especially when I was driving through canyons in Moab on I-70W.

 

OK got a chance to get down here and put the intercooler piping in. It went in without really any issues except for a couple modifications I had to make.

Just a few issues that I want to ask your opinion on though. The throttle body on this car is longer than normal due to the flyin miata adapter and so the piping gets kicked out just a hair too much.

This is causing the radiator hose to be squished up against it just a little too much for comfort.

My solution in my head at least, is cutting off 1" of the 90 degree elbow to help give it a little clearance.



Also due to this the intercooler hose is rubbing slightly on the swaybar.



The turbo piping went in easy too, but due to it being made for the flyin miata kit, it was short of the turbo by about 6". I could have made it work but then it would have rubbed on the sway bar. So I used a short silicone coupler with a 4" pipe and it gave me just enough clearance of the sway bar bracket and the front subframe.







Also, is it going to be bad to wrap the idle air bypass hose clockwise around the pipe to the throttle body? Something tells me it will pinch the hose going behind it.

 

Recently, both Fireindc and Erat have overcome the hose rubbing issue. I believe one of them let it rub, and the other one actually modified the water neck. It looks to me like if you're going to shorten one of the hoses, the intercooler elbow attaching to the TB would make the greatest difference.

Looking awesome!

 

I'd cut the 90° TB coupler. It's unnecessarily long at the TB, so much that you can see that the pipe is angling out towards the rad in your second picture. Cut it shorter and magically watch as you create a gap between the upper hose and 90° coupler.

 

I think the only real solution is TSE's radiator.

 

Troof!

This is what I did. I trimmed the 90* silicone coupler way down, probably took a good inch off it. Make sure you don't cut too far though, i'd recommend you make incremental cuts and test fit. I was never able to get it to make a gap, but I did lessen the rubbing to a point where they barely touch.



So far no damage to either hose, i did throw a smidge of grease between the two so they have some lube to move around.

 

those custom gauge faces to match your cluster is a FANTASTIC idea. holy crap, I can't get over how awesome that is!!! Revlimiter FTW

As for the tb: why not switch to a NB tb and eliminate that stupid ugly retarded NA one with its giant idle valve and hose and the addapter and all that crap? you have an NB manifold and the ecu to control everything, it should be pretty straightforward

 

Wait, what? Have i missed something? What the **** turbo is on this again?

 

This.

 

Yes

 

+100. Only changes you will need to make are to wire in the VTPS and IAC units from the NB tb. You also have to change some MS idle settings, mainly the frequency at which the valve operates (NB is different).

I have the same ECU as you, and i'm happy to give you my NB idle valve settings that worked with my swap. I can also halp with the wiring if you need :P

 

Didn't see that. Save an inch, don't cut anything, AND you can sell the spacer to another NA owner.

 

Im pretty sure all of us with FM piping had to cut some off of that 90 at the TB to help with the reroute. Here is how mine cam out. Sometimes I wonder why FM angled the coldside pipe but not enough to snake a reroute through but enough to get in the way. Aslo my radiator is bigger than yours so you can do it.

 

^^^no adapter plate.

 

Jeff - I can send you a tight radius elbow like the one on my car... It's a cast elbow. It was really the only way for me to get around smashing into my coolant neck.

 

^^^^^no adapter plate.

 

I saw that, looking at his current fitment I still think he'd clear by quite a bit. Mine couldn't even be assembled without the tight radius elbow so he's already a step ahead.

 

look at his pic, he has a good inch of material he can cut and that should clear any contact. FWIW, mine's been rubbing hard against my coupler for years now (so about 3,000 miles).

 

I was about to modify my upper water neck on my rad, but I might try trimming that 90* coupler first. I was having issues where my upper rad hose was pretty well jammed against the 90* on my 1.8 swapped car w/ a reroute.