|
What turbo is that that you have? BB or journal?
The DP thing is to keep the gasses separated until they re-join later down the stream with less turbulence near the spinning turbine wheel/housing. |
Garret 2860RS. Dual ball bearing.
|
One does not simply "rebuild" a dual ball bearing turbo. Clean it up while you have it apart as best you can and run it.
|
That is what I figured as well, I didn't even want to think about attempting it considering the little I know about diesel turbos and VNT.
|
The 1.5" block might also be there to avoid interference. There have been cases with SG downpipes where the wastegate either didn't open all the way or would stick open due to interference.
In anycase, when re-assembling, always check for free movement of the wastegate arm once the downpipe is bolted to the turbo. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1068618)
That is what I figured as well, I didn't even want to think about attempting it considering the little I know about diesel turbos and VNT.
|
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1068851)
If it were journal bearing the rebuild would be easy. BB turbos are pretty much sealed and if they fail you have to replace the entire CHRA (i think).
Coming from the VW world makes you a paranoid person when it comes to your car. Inclement doom is always around the corner.:vash: |
German cars FTL.
|
My TDI has been really reliable surprisingly. Probably because I actually maintain it unlike most VW owners. I think most of the issues people have with das German cars is they don't do preventative maintenance.
Coming up on 4 years with only regular maintenance and no other problems. The 48 mpg highway and 45 city makes up for any headaches. Driving the Miata back from Alabama I was laughing at how often I had to fill up. Around 250-270 miles a tank where is on the Jetta I normally get 600+. Question on maintenance while we are on the topic. Seeing as he built the motor 15k +/- ago, is there anything I should replace while the engine is out and the transmission is out as well? I'm thinking -throwout bearing -rear crank shaft seal -head gasket -water pump(and guessing consequentially I need to do a timing belt change if I replace that?) -fuel filter -Harmonic Damper(not sure on this, mixed reports on needing it with a billet oil pump in place) -Transmission input gasket Since I am getting the exhaust manifold milled flat, will I need a new gasket for that or can I run without? Sorry for the questions, I am searching, just a lot of contrasting opinions on such matters. |
The oil pump is stock, the gear is billet. Just want to be clear that it isn't one of BEs blueprinted setups.
No gasket between manifold and turbo. I would use a new gasket between head and manifold |
From what I have read, the harmonic damper and billet oil pump (or just gears whatever) are not an either-or. But that's for track-heavy cars, whether you need either for the street depends on who you ask.
|
Talked to Dave and while I am probably going overboard with milling all the surface flanges flat, the main cause of the leak is the Actuator for the IWG.
Should I get a direct part # replacement from Garrett or replace it with a rebuildable model such as a Turbosmart or Merkur Depot? Prices are about $80 for the Garret OEM Actuator and about 150ish for the Turbosmart. But...one is rebuildable. |
May have a prospective shell I am considering, it is much higher than what I had planned but it also has a fully built track chassis with Spec Miata roll cage, color matched hard top and too many other things to list done to the chassis. The paint and everything else on the car is in very good condition and it's white as well!
I'm tempted to blow my frugal budget and think about it but I will wait on the final word from the insurance company before I loose my head. |
Well since I'm waiting on the insurance company to give me a figure since I am waiting on some receipts from DJP(mail from AL-UT is slow) I thought I'd do all the maintenance that is harder to do with the engine still in the car.
-Milling turbo flange/manifold flange/downpipe flanges flat -Inconel 10X1.5 studs for the exhaust manifold -Motul Radiator Additive(cheap) -Transmission Seal and Gasket Kit -Mazdaspeed motormounts(mine were hashed) -Exhaust and intake manifold Gaskets -Pilot and Throw-out Bearings(mine was making bad noises) -Valve Cover gasket -oil/fuel filter -Hawk HP+ pads(didnt get rotors since mine are in good shape, just gonna lightly surface sand them) -Amsoil MTG synthetic transmission fluid -Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic 75W-90 diff fluid -Amsoil synthetic grease(for poly bushings, thank god for zerk fittings!) -New Internal Wastegate Actuator for the Garrett 2860rs Disco Potato(mine had a slight leak and they aren't rebuildable) Also going to sand some of the rusted areas on the subframes and put a quick lick of paint on it. Got some insanely good deals on all that but it was still a little pricy. Unfortunately since I spent all week researching what to get it probably all won't get here before the weekend. The car is at my parents house 45 minutes south and work has been ramping up getting ready for the holiday season(bakery) so no time to go down and wrench. I know most of you think I'm probably crazy for getting so much stuff that probably isn't necessary without a shell to put it in; but I'd rather do it now with the engine on a stand and the subframes/transmission out of the car. Should I pull the oil pan off while I'm at it and inspect it for contamination? |
If you are going to run a street pad, then I'd try the pbr ultimates, you should have some in the box of parts. If looking for something useful onthe track, then skip the hp+, the ones on the car were the left over carbotechs after two track days.
Never again would I try to run a double duty pad. If rather run a race pad on the street than a street pad at the track. |
Moved this to build threads finally.
I'm thinking of a title, something like "Buy, flip, sell!!" |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1069149)
Moved this to build threads finally.
I'm thinking of a title, something like "Buy, flip, sell!!" Well after talking about that race shell m going to try calling this guy who is 4 hours away in grand junction. It was just repainted...wait for it...white! Due to circumstances he is selling for $1k. 90' with 120k, new soft top, new paint, body looks straight. But being a CO car I'm a bit worried about rust. No hard top but I don't need one at the moment and at $1k with new paint and a good interior I'm going to give him a call. I've literally looked everywhere for a decent shell and hardtop for a reasonable price but either they are beat to shit or the owners believe that since Miatas are made of Unicorn tears it adds $2,000 to the price. Good point on the pads Dave, I was just getting them to drive on the street till I could put some wilwoods on. We'll see. |
7 Attachment(s)
Now that it is more or less locked in, here is the car.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383321679 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383321679 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383321679 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383321679 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383321679 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383321679 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383321679 No panels look off and even if the interior isn't that good mine was undamaged from the rollover so it will transfer over. Plus that paint looks good! No rust either. The guy bought it to put a 302 into it but has some financial harships hit and needs to sell it fast so I was able to talk an additional $200 off the asking price. |
Looks good. clearly a re-paint (see rockers), so check for rust, and body filler (with a magnet). Although if it was an original crystal white or whatever the paint code is, they had huge paint chipping problems - so it was likely repainted because of that.
It has the classic front bumper deformations on the left and the right - when you get it check and make sure the bumper supports are installed there. Still looks like a damn decent deal assuming no rust or body damage underneath. Glad you found a nice shell that doesnt need paint or body work. Trust me, you don't want to have a badass running shitty looking car. Ask me how i know. LOL. |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1069232)
Looks good. clearly a re-paint (see rockers), so check for rust, and body filler (with a magnet). Although if it was an original crystal white or whatever the paint code is, they had huge paint chipping problems - so it was likely repainted because of that.
It has the classic front bumper deformations on the left and the right - when you get it check and make sure the bumper supports are installed there. Still looks like a damn decent deal assuming no rust or body damage underneath. Glad you found a nice shell that doesnt need paint or body work. Trust me, you don't want to have a badass running shitty looking car. Ask me how i know. LOL. But I was raised by an OCD father who believe in washing and waxing 2 times a month. His 1987 Porsche and 2000 tundra look brand new. Never understood the not washing/waxing your car thing. It takes maybe 1.5 hours at most to do. So easy. I wish I could have found a blue body like yours Fire. They look so damn good with a color matched hardtop. I have the front bumper supports from mine in case these are missing. I did the math and even buying a hard top separately I'm still coming out ahead not having to sink another grand into paint. Plus I'm pretty sure the insurance settlement will get me a new hard top...I was pretty adamant about them including that in their calculation for worth. Guy restored mustangs so I hope the "it has no rust" statement is true. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:55 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands