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Old 04-08-2015, 10:00 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomiboy View Post
You haven't lived until you spin the car completely around and are facing a pack of Vipers bearing down on you!
haha that's something I'd like to avoid!


I forgot to mention- this Ford Motorcraft transmission fluid is a miracle worker. Seriously my transmission has never shifted better, and with the Amsoil in it I was shopping for a new transmission. I cannot believe the difference that it makes. Buy some.

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Old 04-08-2015, 11:32 AM   #122
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I thought the bottle was supposed to be red? I'm glad you found something that works though!
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:30 PM   #123
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yeah my bottle looks a little different, but i think it's all the same stuff. From the ford dealer I asked for synthetic manual transmission fluid.
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:46 PM   #124
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That's what I have also
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:18 PM   #125
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My bottles have been black. But that's all marketing dept choices, it could be a rainbow glitter bottle next time. Who knows.
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Old 04-29-2015, 02:48 PM   #126
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Been working slowly on the car again.

In an effort to eliminate reliability issues related to belts and pulleys, I bought a ceramic bearing ($90!) for my idler pulley and upgraded the tensioner pulley to steel (which I faced flat on the lathe). This way if either bearing seizes the belt can't melt any of my pulleys. The mcmaster carr bearing I ran at the last track day had developed some play and puked all the grease out- looking at the operating temperature and RPM I'm not surprised. The ceramic bearing should be good up to about 450 f and are rated to higher RPMs.





Xida's are in along with new Hawk DTC60 pads. My Carbotech pads (XP12) worked fine and lasted 4 track days, but the Hawks were literally 1/2 the price so I figured I'd give them a shot.


Only things left to do is get tires put on my new wheels, dial in ride-height and maybe play with my engine tune a little.


Also I've been doing some Rotrex mathing, and looking around for different pulley sizes. Currently I have stock crank pulley and an 80mm Rotrex pulley giving me 111,033 Rotrex RPM at redline. TDR makes a 150mm crank pulley overlay thing that would spin the Rotrex to 128,115 RPM at redline (6.76% over recommended max RPM), or I could combine that with my 88mm pulley for 116,465 Rotrex RPMs. I probably won't do anything since I'd have to spend a bunch of money and time and would end up making like 3 more hp.
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Last edited by dcamp2; 04-29-2015 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:12 PM   #127
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I've been avoiding Hawks mainly because of the "corrosive brake dust" allegations. I wonder how true that really is though. Interested in your results.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:20 PM   #128
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I rarely wash my car, so we'll see. haha
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:40 PM   #129
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If by TDR you mean Track Dog Racing for the pulley overlay, I'd avoid it. Early on there were some catastrophic failures that were attributed to people running the overlay. Alignment issue IIRC. I don't know if the product has been redesigned to address that, but its something to keep in mind none the less.

You might check out Underdog Racing Development for pulleys. I believe there are a couple guys on m.net running these without issue, you just have to make sure you are using the correct 4 grooves on the 8 groove pulley. Please don't take my word for it though, it IS m.net afterall. Mobius may also have a source as I believe he was running a smaller one as well, but I can't remember where he got it.

I'm interested to see how the ceramic holds up!
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:00 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
I've been avoiding Hawks mainly because of the "corrosive brake dust" allegations. I wonder how true that really is though. Interested in your results.
+1

I got my 80 and 75 from Kraftworks. My belt always runs in the center of the 8 rib pulley

Last edited by tomiboy; 04-29-2015 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:45 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
If by TDR you mean Track Dog Racing for the pulley overlay, I'd avoid it. Early on there were some catastrophic failures that were attributed to people running the overlay. Alignment issue IIRC. I don't know if the product has been redesigned to address that, but its something to keep in mind none the less.

You might check out Underdog Racing Development for pulleys. I believe there are a couple guys on m.net running these without issue, you just have to make sure you are using the correct 4 grooves on the 8 groove pulley. Please don't take my word for it though, it IS m.net afterall. Mobius may also have a source as I believe he was running a smaller one as well, but I can't remember where he got it.

I'm interested to see how the ceramic holds up!

Ok- makes sense, I don't get a great impression from TDR products based on their website and reviews and such... Besides I'm already sick of playing with belts and **** on this car- I'll just leave it alone.

The ceramic better f**king hold up! $90 for one little bearing! it makes me sick!
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:31 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
I've been avoiding Hawks mainly because of the "corrosive brake dust" allegations. I wonder how true that really is though. Interested in your results.
Let me put it this way, I've been lazy about swapping pads and I've been running the DTC-60s on the street. It lightly drizzled the other day and my wheels turned a nice shade of red where the water pooled up on the lip in 5 minutes.
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Old 04-30-2015, 08:00 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcamp2 View Post
Been working slowly on the car again.

In an effort to eliminate reliability issues related to belts and pulleys, I bought a ceramic bearing ($90!) for my idler pulley and upgraded the tensioner pulley to steel (which I faced flat on the lathe). This way if either bearing seizes the belt can't melt any of my pulleys. The mcmaster carr bearing I ran at the last track day had developed some play and puked all the grease out- looking at the operating temperature and RPM I'm not surprised. The ceramic bearing should be good up to about 450 f and are rated to higher RPMs.






Xida's are in along with new Hawk DTC60 pads. My Carbotech pads (XP12) worked fine and lasted 4 track days, but the Hawks were literally 1/2 the price so I figured I'd give them a shot.


Only things left to do is get tires put on my new wheels, dial in ride-height and maybe play with my engine tune a little.


Also I've been doing some Rotrex mathing, and looking around for different pulley sizes. Currently I have stock crank pulley and an 80mm Rotrex pulley giving me 111,033 Rotrex RPM at redline. TDR makes a 150mm crank pulley overlay thing that would spin the Rotrex to 128,115 RPM at redline (6.76% over recommended max RPM), or I could combine that with my 88mm pulley for 116,465 Rotrex RPMs. I probably won't do anything since I'd have to spend a bunch of money and time and would end up making like 3 more hp.
The 75mm pulley will give you, about, an additional 2 psi, and with your stock crank pulley will put the Rotrex at 118,435 when you are at the car's 7,200 redline. Probably more than 3 HP nephew! I'd guess 10-12 HP. A smaller diameter pulley may just need a shorter belt. When I went from 85 to 80 I just tightened up the adjuster. 75 may be different
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:13 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lincoln Logs View Post
Let me put it this way, I've been lazy about swapping pads and I've been running the DTC-60s on the street. It lightly drizzled the other day and my wheels turned a nice shade of red where the water pooled up on the lip in 5 minutes.
Were they easily cleaned or permanently stained or ?
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:25 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomiboy View Post
The 75mm pulley will give you, about, an additional 2 psi, and with your stock crank pulley will put the Rotrex at 118,435 when you are at the car's 7,200 redline. Probably more than 3 HP nephew! I'd guess 10-12 HP. A smaller diameter pulley may just need a shorter belt. When I went from 85 to 80 I just tightened up the adjuster. 75 may be different
I'm wondering if I could gain some of that power just by adding timing and avoid some of the extra heat from adding boost. I guess ideally I'd add boost and timing and get most powah!

Would I need special tools or have to send it in to get the nose pulley swapped? I'd definitely need a new belt- mine has almost no room left for adjustment.
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:06 PM   #136
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My nose pulley looks like the ones that URD shows on their website. There is one large hole in the middle for the bolt that holds it on, and (4) smaller holes all the way around. I made as pin wrench that catches two of the holes to hold it from moving and just unscrew the bolt. It was really easy (once I made the wrench)

I'm pretty sure Kraftworks still sells the 75mm pulley with the 6 allens.

Last edited by tomiboy; 04-30-2015 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:27 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lincoln Logs View Post
Let me put it this way, I've been lazy about swapping pads and I've been running the DTC-60s on the street. It lightly drizzled the other day and my wheels turned a nice shade of red where the water pooled up on the lip in 5 minutes.
I have the same experience. It will buff out if you don't let it sit for too long. But I got lazy on my C3Ms. I was able to elbow grease the outer lip shiny again, but the inner lip between the spokes is done. Just a hardened black coating.

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Old 04-30-2015, 12:35 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Were they easily cleaned or permanently stained or ?
I'm pretty sure if I put some effort in I could clean them up, the rust wants to cake on pretty fast. My wheels are also pretty old so the finish is already worn down a bit. Next set of wheels will get a nice coat of wax before I do anything with them to keep the finish in better condition.
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:07 PM   #139
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Why did my fuel line fall off?



The 99' fuel rail I'm using does not have the little bump at the end of the hard pipe to help clamp the hose on, and after a month of use I guess it blew the line off. The fuel hose felt slimy- like the gas was eating away at it, but it says right on the hose 'gates fuel injection hose'.

What kind of hose/attachment method does a stock 99' miata use?


This (sorry the pic is hard to see, but it was late and I'd just jogged a few miles home to get my truck and tools):



I'm thinking I can split the fuel hose lengthwise a few inches, push the split portion up and over the stop and clamp it above the stop to keep it from falling off, and clamp below on the non split portion to keep the gas in... Thoughts?



Edit: Derp- guess I'm not the only one: http://blog.choppedoctopus.com/2012/...94-engine.html

Looks like I need some kind of snap on fitting.
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Last edited by dcamp2; 05-08-2015 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 05-08-2015, 05:15 PM   #140
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Hmmm my fuel rail came with the push lock fittings and lines still attached. It was easy to remove the line off of the push lock fitting and reuse the barb on the fitting.

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