ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Andrew, how so? Was the spool similar with drastically different transient response?

Comparing Aidan's 6758 logs to my 2871 VD pulls, I spool 500rpm better than him, which frankly just seems totally off. Thread is in the engine performance section. What gives?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I will reply in that thread

Mpliki

Had a gt2871 on a 1.6 with a log mani and a tubular mani. On a 1.8 99 motor also with a log mani and a tubular mani. There is no ******* way a gt2871 spools faster than a 6758 unless something is broken on the 6758 setup.

I take into account, that a proper log manifold spools faster that a tubular equal length manifold plus the fact that you have a VVT motor, i would accept the above statement if we were talking about a 6758 vs gtx2863 gen 2, but your saying that a turbo
that came out 3 years before jesus was born and so many of use have used, spools faster that a 6758...

That sir is impossibru.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I'm not saying anything. Data is data. May not be the best data but it is what it is.
I also mentioned in that thread that Aidan had mentioned having ebc issues which would explain lower spool.

I am also running a sport cat which is a lot of things but probably not a spool helper!

Mpliki

Yesterday i received this.



I installed it, changed the jumpers for fuel pump from US to EU, and after i inserted the id1050X times , it fired right up!
Also i extracted VE, AFR, and ignition tables. Inserted them on the MS3 and the car runs rich. With the MS2 AFRs were perfect.
I guess that deadtime voltage curve is now correct and this resulted in the car running rich. Will tune that.

Now waiting on 4 port solenoid to begin tuning on boost control via MS3.

Mpliki

Turbosmart, modified and installed.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

How did you modify it?

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

Just stumbled across the thread and was looking at the part list. I'd go ahead and jump to something bigger than that walbro 255. Mine couldn't keep up at ~350whp on e85, stock lines, converted to a return system, with whatever pressure I tried to throw at it. You might be alright with 91/93 octane, but at the power you're shooting for it will probably still cause issues.

My DW300 has been great, just had to hardwire it to the battery because it kept killing fuel pump relays.

Mpliki

I used it with the GTX so i had to cut the thread in order to make it "fit".
So when i tried to use it with the borg, it was short. So i cut both their rods and welded borg's rod to the turbosmart.

Sadly no e85 here , so 255 is going to be enough. As for my power goal i will have to use torqo of Vp.

Mpliki

I dont know if this is the correct place to ask, but something strange started to happen. The car was running very lean. I connected my laptop and the ego correction was going crazy 85%. Note that the car was running great until yesterday night. Today it started right up and everything was normal and EGO was working great. While i was driving, out of the blue it started doing again the same things. EGO was stuck on 85% I turnes it of and the car is working good. Has anyone experienced anything similar? Is there a possibility that the ms3 is fucked up?

codrus

If you only have one MAP sensor, then it does a barometric pressure reading from it before you start the car and saves that value. If something weird happens during the start procedure (like if you turn it off and on while the car is running) then that BARO reading can give bogus data and it will screw up the running of the car until you restart it normally.

--Ian

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

O2 sensor might need to be recalibrated. They can get weird.

Mpliki

when i turn off the EGO the car idles with normal afrs. The thing is, it was working perfectly and all of a sudden it started going crazy... last night it started doing this from the time i started the car. Today it started working normaly and after 1 hour of driving it started again.....

SpartanSV

Mpliki

So after further investigation, i checked the analog wire from the AEM that sends the signal to the MS3 and i measured 3.5V that is changing depending on the reading of the AEM
but the AFR gauge on tunner studio is stuck on 10.4 so that's why the EGO correction was working all the time trying to remove fuel. The AEM is connected to the lambda wire in the factory harness.
I will try to connect it on one of the inputs and see what happens. The thing is, that from time to time it works. I dont now what is happening. On the MS2 it was working perfectly. I will update when i have news.
Also i am thinking of going with a newer AEM unit and connect it to the MS3 via CAN.

Mpliki

So i got tired of searching and connected the AEM through an o2 input. Now it is working just fine.

New updates. I installed the 4 port mac valve, connected everything. And i started using boost control from ms3.
After reading everything i could find here, i tunned boost control and i am happy.

I used a switch so i could have it on or off. And it works fine, but i could use a button for table switch so i can have low and high.
Currently set pressure is at 24psi but it overboost's to 30 and then it settles to 24. (i should probably post a log) if any one would like to help, be my guest.

Cluch is slipping after a few power runs...

Also i broke a 6 speed.




Repaired it and know is ok.

After nessesary repairs and while the car was in the shop, i changed the diff bushings with something more durable.


Startd doing some more pulls and all of a sudden during a pull, i heard loud whining noise coming from the rear of the car.

Back to the shop. First thought was that bearings gone bad. Nope. After a closer examination, ring and pinion got damaged(no broken gears- gear surfaces had pitting and got rough)
Changed ring and pinion with another 3.6 and now all is good.(is there any possibility that the more rigid bushings caused this?)

Installed a pair of lotus elise seats,with a fixed braces i bought from a guy in Greece. Installation was a breeze.




Now on to a problem. Car came with an ms2 from DIY which could not control the alternator so they use an alternator from an NA miata.
I bought and installed an ms3pnp from DIY and i decided to change to an NB alternator so i could control the voltage. Bought a used nb alternator and installed it along with all the pulleys and belts.
I used the settings in Alternator control and now i have a solid 14 volts. Problem is that since then i am having a very hard time starting the car. When it is cold i have to try 3-4 times in order to start it. After it starts it works like a charm.
On a hot start, things are much better but the problem is there. When the car is cold i checked the voltage reading in MS compared to the battery voltage and i saw a difference of about 0.7 volts.
Whent to the voltage calibration and saw that in order for the MS to read the same voltage as the battery i have to set the MAX ADC count to 35.3. Did that and after setting up fuel it starts a bit easier but i cannot make it idle no matter what. Any help will be greratly appreciated.
(If a moderator thinks i should delete the last part regarding my problem and post it on another section just tell me)

Mpliki

Since my last update i did two trackdays, and i had alooot of fun with the car. The main problem was the absence of an oil cooler.
I noticed after the second trackday( the car was pushed hard) that the oil pressure was slowly being reduced.

Also i solved the starting problem i had when i swaped the ms2 for an ms3pro. On the ignition settings, rising edge on MS2 must be changed to falling edge on MS3pro. Car starts nicely now

I ordered a boundary stg2 oil pump and an oil ccoler with all the nessesary parts AN fittings in order to intall it,morimoto Mini D2S D2S xenon light bulbs and shrouds( NB headlight with an LED lightbulb is blinding everyone) a fluidamper, CAN Checked display, a Bluetooth adapter for the Megasquirt, a miataturbo arprroved magnaflow muffler and i planned on installing it as soon as possible.













After a 4 month period of the car sitting in the garage i took it for a ride and i noticed that during idle, the the oil pressure when the oil was warm drop to 0 for like a second and then went back up to 15- 17 psi. but it was for an instant i thought that the oil pressure gauge was fucked up, so did not pay any attention.

First i installed the CAN cheked display and removed the boost gauge, water temp gauge and oil pressure gauge( I installed a prosport premium sensor and connected it to the CAN cheked display). Ultimate goal here is to remove the oil temp gauge and hide the AFR gauge for a cleaned looking interior.




Next i installed the turbosmast BOV. I chose the plumback shortie, becase i dont like very loud choo choo noises and i wanted to keep it working as borgwarner intended to work. The problem was that that the turbosmart BOV had only 2 port for the air to escape and when i took it for a test the car was sounding like a R34 GTR or a Supra from the 90's, fluttering and surging. Tried to adjust the stiffness but it was no good. Sooo i send an Email to Turbosmart explaining the situation and their reply was that at the boost pressure i was running i should use a 50-50 BOV......... That the plumb back was not "enough" for my boost pressure.( That was not specified on the product discription) so i modified it by opening up 2 more ports


The stock one is on the left and mine is on the right. Now it works

I Installed the magnaflow muffler and that made the car more quiet.( It is not by any means stock like quiet, but a lot more quiet compared to the previous set up Before, idle 76db after 64db)




Then i installed the morimoto projectors and shrouds.










I am going to use the orange color on the shrouds for turning signals.

Before, with the NB headlights and LED bulbs







And after the installation




I adjusted both of them after the shot, in order to be straight.
Very nice light output and now i am not blinding anyone.

Then the time came to change the oil pump and the damper.
So i went on a very nice monday morning to a very good friend's shop.






All the main and conrod bearings were fucked up like this. The cranckshaft was fucked up as well, and the camshafts joined in on the orgy...

The thing is that the car drove, boosted and generaly felt great.. The oil pressure gauge was not faulty after all....

So i had to find another 1.8 engine( in Greece that is not easy) and build it with everything. Forged pistons,forged rods, ACL bearings, arp head and main studs.

I bought a set of valve stem seals from 949 and a clutch master, slave and hard line( clutch stuff are not in yet) and 16 volvo springs as per all the good things i read in here about them.

A used motor was found for a low price and was send to a good machine shop to measure and install everything.





While i was waiting on the motor, i opened up the valve cover and modifed it to reduce blow-by and backpressure in the crank and head area.







I enlarged the passenger side and drilled a small extra hole next to the enlarged one. I drilled out the OEM fittings and welded 10AN fittings.

Cleaned the sump tank and installed skidnation's oil pan baffle.





While i was at it i changed the intercooler piping from the turbo to the cooler to 2.5inch from 2 inch and bought a gates timing belt.
No photos from those, sorry.



Then when everything was ok, the engine was assembled an installed back in the car.




I installed the oil cooler as well, but at the last moment i did not connected it in order to avoid contaminating it with all the metal shavings that would come from breaking the engine in.





I now the placed is not ideal but it is convinient and the cooler is protected from road debris. (So far IAT, oil temp and water temps are great.)

Mpliki

I had already ordered a squaretop intake manifold but it took for ever to get it so i installed to VICS just to have the car up and running.



Here you can see the oil catch cans




After i broke the motor in.
Started the car reved it between 2500 and 3500 rpm for 2min, changed oil and oil filter. Started the car again, went on a highway road and started doing pulls,3000 rpm coast down, 3500rpm coast down and so on, until i reached 6000 rpm. All this for about 90 miles. Changed the oil and oil filter again. Then i took the car and went on a relaxing-BORING roadtrip for about 800 miles with mild pulls and started to go in to boost gradually (as i was putting miles on the motor) and leting it coast down.

Changed the oil one last time to motul chrono 300v 10-40 and connected the oil cooler.


Yesterday i received the squaretop mani and went to my friend's shop to install it.

( How fucked up is it to remove the VICS mani when the engine is ON the car.....)

First i toke it apart, in order to clean and inspect it.






Very dirty, so i cleaned it with magic (deadly) chemicals





and started to paint the cover black, as the valve cover





And finaly this is how the engine bay looks now.





I know i should have painted the bottom part black...

Strange enough after i took it for a test drive, the AFRS on low load - city driving we richer and high load - pulls leaner. I know the squaretop is not so good compared to the VICS low end to mid range RPM but it gives a better high end than the VICS. Maybe that explans the difference in AFR i saw last night.


Next on the list is to make a decent heat shield on the turbo, ducting on the coolers and dyno it next week.

Sorry for the mile long post. Any comments or inputs will be highly appreciated.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Lots of changes in this post!

Run the autotune to get the fueling right with the new manifold, or after any other changes that effect efficiency.