Did some MS work today. Added VSS and a tableswitch for boost tables, one wastegate and one EBC.

How to add VSS to NA Miata without cruise control

(Joe Perez had a picture up at one point that got lost)

Remove gauge hood (and then try and plastic weld the tabs your broke off)

http://i59.tinypic.com/14njudw.jpg

Remove the gauges from the car

http://i62.tinypic.com/f4ixds.jpg

Find the screw terminal labeled RSW

http://i61.tinypic.com/zkftq0.jpg

Add wire to the terminal

http://i58.tinypic.com/2jbuzqp.jpg

Run the wire to where your megasquirt is

http://i59.tinypic.com/al0wgp.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2z7fvj5.jpg

Leave some slack for when you want to pull the dash again:

http://i57.tinypic.com/2hn1b1u.jpg

Put everything back together.

Wire it into the Datalog In (or tableswitch, cam in, etc)

These settings worked well for me:

http://i59.tinypic.com/2wrm6o1.jpg

Installed my SOMEOFIT, NONEOFIT switch last night.

http://i61.tinypic.com/213gok.jpg

On is my closed loop boost table, off is wastegate or around 4-6 PSI.

That cool. What about also make your rev limit low. sort of a valet mode.

Not too simple. I can change spark and fuel tables, and I guess I could just retard timing a bunch? No idea if that would work though.

Might dig into the source code this weekend and see what I can do.

Made a list of things necessary before track season comes around. Let me know what I'm missing/suggestions on what to do for them.

1. Inconel studs (most likely 10mm OEM, not sure if thats rx-7 or something nissan)
2. Exhaust bracing. (Need to brace the downpipe to the tranny using a clamp or something)
3. Locking downpipe bolts (ordered)
4. Seats + Harness + back braces (parts acquired, ultrashield+diy back brace+ scroth)
5. Install new springs (550 Front, 350 rear)
6. Oil+water temp guages. (I think I should be fine running without an oil cooler for the first season. Thinking about a guage that goes in the stock water temp location but suggestions here would help. Also where should the sensors go?)
7. Helmet (Thinking HJC AR-10, but need to try it on)
8. Hardtop (in the works)
9. Put beads on intercooler pipes (Probably DIY: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org, unless someone local knows somewhere to get it done cheap)
10. Find coolant leak.
11. Find diff leak.
12. Heat Shielding. (master cylinder, brake lines)
13. Tune.
14. Break stuff.
15. Manifold relief cuts

What do you think, good enough for the track. (I'm a slow driver btw, not pushing any limits besides those of the tire walls)

16. Are you on a stock rad?
17. Trackmaster
18. "Insert brand here" action camera
19. 10hz Bluetooth gps

16. Ebay special.
17. I'll add that to the list of apps to try.
18. Gopro
19. Need to look into this

19. http://m.ebay.com/itm/130923922629?nav=SEARCH

Just a little too pricey. I want something in the <40 range. Might try and build one.

It's the cheapest 10hz on the market. I looked high and low and wasted money trying others first. I too am a cheap bastard. How would you make a gps?

Cheap GPS chip+Cheap bluetooth chip+microcontroller. No idea if it is feasible but I'm going to look into it.

Does gps chip come loaded with firmware? Or is that done with the mc?

Right now I'm looking at a 40$ adafruit chip that is nmea compatible. I've got a bunch of rs232-bluetooth chips that should connect. I'm going to draw up a board and see what I can get it printed for. Its more an educational pursuit because I'll probably only be saving like 20$

Hm,

I wonder if the cheap GPS sensors the FPV guys are using have a serial output that would work with one of those cheap rs232 bluetooth dongles.

This thing is $25, 10hz with a "standard UART (TTL) serial interface" You can buy the rs232 chip for $7 or so on the same site. I'm using one to use MSdroid and occasionally shadowdash, been through the whole TTL interface while setting that up.

EachinePilot Micro GPS And Compass Module U-BLOX 7 For RC Multirotor Sale-Banggood.com

Nice! I'll try one of those with a serial chip and see what happens.

:(

http://i59.tinypic.com/uucmv.jpg

Going to try and tighten down the nuts some more. And then get it surfaced and inconel'd.

Turbine flange had zero chance of heat sinking any heat.

?

It's thin.

I'm going to throw a straight edge on it and see if it warped or if it just never sealed fully. The thin part is something I have hoped/worried about for a while and is something I'm going to have to try and work around. I have a spare turbine housing that I am going to play around with and see if I can come up with a solution.