Drilled a hole, ran wire through it, sealed it with JB quick weld.

 

Any issue with fuel wicking up the wire?

 

No, I did it out of the car obviously. It's sealed and then reinstalled.

 

Something to watch out for is thermal runaway, I don't think it'd be a problem with stock wire in the tank, but as you feed too much current through a small wire it will heat up, further increasing it's resistance which makes it heat up all the more, thermal runaway. It is killer of LEDs and laser diodes, unless fed constant current instead of fixed voltage.

It happens a lot in terminals on cars, headlights, the blower fan resistor coil in my Colorado, some piece of **** kia I fixed...

For wicking you can add a drip loop if it'd fit, maybe it'd help?

 

I don't mean while installing it. I mean while its sitting in the fuel.

Would a drip loop work with an insulated wire?

 

It's sealed, it's never going to leak. Mine I just ran the wires straight to the pump. It don't leak, I've pulled the cover to check it a couple times.

If it makes you feel all warm and fuzzy, I added a pick up tube for a fuel system for nitrous back in 2006 on this car. I tach welded it into the hanger, and JB-welded it to seal it. In 2006, and it still doesn't leak as of 10/21/2015.

 

I still don't mean leaking around the seal. I mean the wires submersed in fuel. Wicking up inside the insulation.

 

Oh. Well I dunno, if it's a problem I haven't experienced it yet. I googled it and found a few people did what I did, so I did it. I guess if you're worried about it, I think about 100 dollars will buy a good connector, and 2-3 hundred buys the tools to crimp pins for it. Then you can add a metal connector that is sealed and better. That's the only easy way I know to improve this given that the hanger is steel. Maybe cut a section of steel out, epoxy a piece of plastic in its place, and then use threw bolts and connect to those. Lot of work, in the end would be better than what I did though.

 

The connector from racetronix is actually for some dealer approved retrofit on GM cars or something like that. It was the best option I could find this side of a **** load of money. Pat they do sell insulated bolt terminals like you'd use to have battery lugs on the outside of a racecar and some people do use those with some globs of fuel rated rtv instead. If I was you though I'd have a sniff at the relay end of the wire poking out of your fuel tank and see if you can smell the gasoline thats probably inside the wire.

 

I'm leaning towards the bolt terminals. If I can find them cheap. Saw some for like $12 on a quick search, but **** that's halfway to the racetronix thing.

 

You can get proper "open barrel" terminal crimpers for about $20 that cover about 2 to 3 different gauges.

 

Molex Style Crimp Tool Wiring Harness Crimping Crimper Open Barrel 14 24 AWG | eBay
The $2-300, ratcheting, depth stopped, replaceable die crimpers are awesome, but not necessary.


Dont feel like deciphering the last 10 pages or whatever, but whats the deal with this bulk head connector obsession. You keep mentioning it, whats the problem? Cant find one you like? Are you over complicating **** again?

 

Fuel safe. Big wire. Not racetronix because they are ********.

I bought a walbro400 e85

 

Oh, so you want a bulk head connector for the gas tank? I can see that being difficult and expensive.

Having never messed with a miata gas tank- other than converting to the proper gauge, whats the issue with the stock "bulk head" connector?

Edit- goggle images answered my question. I have nothing to add at this point. Carry on.

 

 

Putting 14 or more amps though a connector thats probably not even rated for 12 amps going into a gas tank is scary.

 

So what you are saying is, this is perfect for aidan?

 

FD dudes be like




Triple-R: Engine Rebuild - Dual Fuel Pumps and Tank Improvements

 

Yeah those are the sketchy things I mentioned earlier. You ever notice how often FDs catch on fire, especially during photoshoots...

 

Keep reading. He had to add a whole bunch of fuel safe sealant to make them work. What's the cheapest you can find those?