There's a small separated area in the turnsignal housing that you can mount a twist lock 194 bulb mount in. If you do it that way the bulb will still be sealed and you could cut out the rest of the housing for the headlight. If you remove the turn signal it should be easy to see what I'm talking about. There's even a mark in the mold where it looks like Mazda thought about doing this.

 

That's a DRL bulb in canada-land, as is tradition.

 

Yep. That is the plan. Only worry is losing high beams :(.

 

You're literally going to be spending hours and hours on this, plus money, for something that already works perfectly fine? And I guarantee you it won't work as well.

Have you even put them up on the freeway? They cut down on a serious amount of wind noise, and you do a lot of road trips.

 

Yeah I have. I don't notice a difference. My car is also really loud on the freeway.

Also it's not a huge project. Build some brackets, install lights. Check light output. Bake turn signals, install turn signal lenses. That's a nice evenings work.

I don't see how a good projector is going to under perform a popup headlight.

If it doesn't work I have other projects I can use the projectors on. They are waterproof and can be mounted externally. They are the perfect all purpose projector.

 

Suspension plans:

Front upper delrin bushing. Maybe offset, not sure yet.
Lower extended ball joint from @cordycord depending on price, will decide if I need offset upper bushings.
Urethane lower front and back.
@hi_im_sean upper spherical in back.

This should tighten the car up nicely, seeing as I believe I am on OEM 187k stock rubber.

 

FTFY

 

PS- M10x1.00 taps are ghey.

 

Thank you for the spoon feeding. I thought there was an issue with the upper spherical but couldn't remember why. Why not extended lbj+offset delrin front for ALLOFTHECAMBERS.

why are you playing with m10 taps?

 

You most definitely could, but I see no point. I offset the lower by 1/4", and with the adjuster only half way, im at 3 degrees.

Its for a "project" im doing, I need to thread a chunk of aluminium for an NGK CM-6 which uses that thread. I literally have a few hundred taps at my disposal and not one is M10-1. I found a 1" ACME, M32x whatever, and other really oddball ****, but no m10x1, its the only size we don't have. Easy to get, just have to wait now.

 

Makes sense. I assume you can buy individual bushings instead of just buying the whole kit.

I was kinda holding off for a spherical arm option to materialize. But I think the only way I will get that is to do it myself.

 

yes, but they are soo fuking expensive when you buy them al a carte. It probably still makes sense just to buy the kit, depends on how many you need I guess.

 

Your price on the extended lower ball joints is zero/zip/nada. But, I insist that you add proper Delrin or Urethane bushings, because race car.

 

Cord you da best.

Bushings are on the list. Don't worry.

 

What a nice guy.

 

This means I can just make normal bushings, which is way easier. Talking with Sean last night this is the list of bushings.

2 delrin FLCA
6 delrin RLCA
4 delrin FUCA
4 delrin RUCA

2 poly FLCA
2 poly RLCA

Then sphericals in the upper rear.

Car will be stiffer than my stuff

 

http://corvallis.craigslist.org/tls/5287159685.html

Hopefully this will be mine this weekend.

 

Don't forget you'll need steel stock for the bushing "pin"

 

Yes. I rememberd dis. I looked at your thread too.

Not sure how I'm going to make that "broach" you made. We'll see.

 

Its not required. I don't know of any other bushings that do that, it just helps according to the dupont pdf as discussed. If you go with 1" bores you can borrow mine. It's needs a better insert screw though, or better yet, a clamp.