Barton

For a long time I've wanted to get some Revlimiter gauges, but since I had the Raspberry Pi display I didn't have any reason to...until now.

While I had the cluster out and apart I also fit my little digital display to replace the oil pressure gauge.



I had to drill a 20mm hole in the top to pass the wires for the display through and fit a grommet to seal it up.
The PCB mounts straight onto the cluster using two of the oil pressure gauge mounting screws which conveniently also give 12V and GND.
I've just mounted a DTM connector on the back of the cluster as well for the CAN pair and mode select button.


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A long time ago I purchased a Radium catch can but never finding a nice spot to mount it. I didn't really want to drill any additional holes to mount it so instead I designed a little adapter bracket and 3D printed it so that it would utilise the existing washer bottle threaded holes.



It uses two cap head bolts which are recessed into the bracket and act as studs to hold the catch can in place. Also included a little clip for the ECU vacuum line so it doesn't rub as it passes over.
The lines are routed across to the PCV and intake manifold and are clipped onto my newly aquired strut brace.
Not too happy with the two 90deg brass bends I used to route the hose back over to the passenger side though. Might replace the PCV with an NB8A 90deg version later to make it a bit neater.





The strut brace also allowed me to mount my accelerator pedal position sensor in a nicer location to the side of the brace.



Last change I've done is replace the NB8B fuel rail and my crappy makeshift pressure regulator bracket with a Radium fuel rail.
Used the same 4bar pressure regulator I was using before but mounted directly to the fuel rail using a swivel ORB adapter.
Since there were unused ports on the rail I could also fit a new combined temperature/pressure Bosch sensor. While I was at it I also added the same Bosch sensor in place of the OEM oil pressure switch too.







Something I've noticed now that the weather is cold is that my oil temperature is struggling to come up to operating temperature.
I suspect this is because I have reversed the water flow through the OEM oil cooler and it is being fed cold water.
I'm not too sure if it's an issue yet since I'm measure the oil temperature just after the cooler and I haven't found any data on the difference between the oil temp post filter vs sump, so I will be fitting a sump temperature sensor to data log both values.

Can see in the data below the oil temperature comes up to around 70, then start dropping as the vehicle starts moving. Coolant drops as well which isn't helping and shows there is some flow through the radiator even with the thermostat closed. I'm using a qmax reroute kit which has a small bypass slot in the thermostat housing which allows some flow through the radiator. Next time it's out I'll block off the slot to avoid this issue.
In the meantime to try and improve things, I've fitted a blanking panel to cover half the radiator.