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Old 07-07-2011, 01:15 AM   #41
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You get a special "bottom" price.
***NSFW***

I think you'd appreciate this:

http://gainesville.craigslist.org/cas/2468317996.html
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Old 07-07-2011, 02:08 AM   #42
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lol! He is on the *******! roflcopter

Got the car to idle, going to sync the timing and try to set up a good map so I can drive the car this weekend.

Last edited by Bond; 07-07-2011 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:54 PM   #43
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Car runs ok. I know it could use more tuning but it is getting the job done for now. Trey helped me get a decent road tune on the car, but he hates my WBo2. It sees a lot of noise in the signal, very jumpy. I have it grounded off the DB37 connector or whatever the hell it is that plugs in to the front of the MS.

Attached is my .msq and a datalog, any input is appreciated. This is N/A with stock injectors. 1.6l.
Attached Files
File Type: msq mike11.msq (79.2 KB, 59 views)
File Type: msl 2011-07-18_19.07.43.msl (1.58 MB, 66 views)
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:22 AM   #44
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I have a spare LC-1 that you can replace later if there is a cash-flow issue...the gauge is blue.
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:34 PM   #45
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Problems have arisen. I drove the car for about 3 weeks with out any problems. Then on my way out East, it started acting weird. I would hit bumps in the road and it would miss, tach was also cutting out. I parked it and came back from work and it didn't start. It would turn over, but there was no power to the WB02. Towed it 50 miles back home.

So I was convinced my WB02 was at fault, picked up treys extra lc1 wired it in to the DB37 connector on the front of my MS, and it got power. Calibrated it as directed, so I guess it worked? not really sure, LED never blinked so I just did it by manually connecting the wires with my hand.

Same problem as before though. It will crank, it has spark, TS shows fuel pulses while cranking. I found the 20A fuse for the fan in the main fuse box was blown and keeps blowing, so I'm guessing there is a short somewhere in that system. I'm pretty lost at this point, when I bought this car it had some pretty weird electrical glitches it seemed, and the ignition switch is kinda finicky.

Anyone have an idea on what is at fault here?

PS my dad was messing about with the car when I was gone and put ST_SIG fuse back in. It didn't do any damage I don't think as MS still connects and the car still cranks, just doesn't catch.

halp
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:49 PM   #46
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Dad fail. ISthe WBo2 working or not? If it's not, let me know so I can send it to Innovate and get it repaired.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:16 PM   #47
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Yes the LC1 is working, or atleast it has power, haven't got the car to start so I don't know if it is reading correctly or not.

I checked out my fuel pump and the connector has power, but I don't hear the pump turn on when I turn the key. Searching now on how to bench test the pump.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:24 PM   #48
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Well since your dad put that fuse back in, you destroyed the Megasquirt's fuel pump relay driver. Jump FP to ground in the diagnostic connector and it will fire right up.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:27 PM   #49
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Well since your dad put that fuse back in, you destroyed the Megasquirt's fuel pump relay driver. Jump FP to ground in the diagnostic connector and it will fire right up.

this.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:28 PM   #50
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Did your dad try starting the car with the ST_SIG fuse in? I am almost positive that kills the fuel pump setup on the MS and will cause the car not to start.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:33 PM   #51
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want a simple fix that require minimal soldering?
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:42 PM   #52
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Yes the LC1 is working, or atleast it has power, haven't got the car to start so I don't know if it is reading correctly or not.

I checked out my fuel pump and the connector has power, but I don't hear the pump turn on when I turn the key. Searching now on how to bench test the pump.
Jump the fuel pump at the connector next to the steering rack at the fire wall (yes, you'll need a ton of extensions and a wobble).

There's another local guy who runs MS who called AAA or something because his timing belt broke. The tow truck driver tried to do him a favor by putting the "ST SGN" fuse in and it never worked again.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:53 PM   #53
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want a simple fix that require minimal soldering?

yeah, what is it?
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:56 PM   #54
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yeah, what is it?
Open your DIYPNP by removing the 4 screws on the db15 side. Slide out the main board.

Remove the two wires going to the High Side Driver Circuit (from FP to IN and from OUT to 1C)

Solder a wire from FP to 2O.

On your AFM connector jump pins 2 and 7.

done, never worry about the ST-SIGN fuse ever again.



Alternatively:

Buy a TIP125 (not at radio shack sorry)

Open your DIYPNP by removing the 4 screws on the db15 side. Slide out the main board.

Remove the TIP125 from the High Side Driver Circuit

Replace.

done.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:57 PM   #55
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I love you gays. So after I do this, do I want to keep the STSIG fuse out or in?
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:06 PM   #56
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There is still a bad connection somewhere though. The fan fuse has a short and it still hasn't explained why it died on me in Mckinney.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:31 PM   #57
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2O eh... I have a 3O, but no 2O, or maybe I'm blind. It only goes to 2L.

Last edited by Bond; 08-01-2011 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:55 PM   #58
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Test the fan circuit for the short, it's probably the shortest set of wiring on the car.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:58 PM   #59
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2O eh... I have a 3O, but no 2O, or maybe I'm blind. It only goes to 2L.

2O is factory. that would 4O on the diypnp.



which fuse is popping?
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:03 PM   #60
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The fan fuse, 20A yellow, right above where the stsig fuse originally goes.

So I want FP to 4O? oui oui. and for that matter the bigger one or smaller one, even though it looks like both 4O has no leads running to it.
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