Boost Addicts SR20det engine conversion
First and foremost, if you don't like, agree with, or understand why i would do this swap, you can gtfo. I am doing this because it's fast, cool and unique.. Not because of the opinion of some Internet voice....
A bit of background; my name is Zander, I'm 19, and currently working I a machine shop. My boss let's me work on whatever I want after hours. I was previously planning on an fe3n turbo engine conversion, however circumstances changed. I was traded the engine for a 700$ turbo, and I saw the potential; all aluminum block, huge aftermarket, and of course, a tranny that can hold some real power. *Currently the engine has 264 cams, pistons, bigger injectors, and a real greddy intake. *Still has the stock t25 for now.


To fit this engine is not as bad as it would seem. *With the cas positioned how it is on the bp, you loose firewall clearance. *The sr does not have this issue, and will come forward in the engine bay just as far as the bp. *The shifter even sits just an inch farther back than stock, which is really kind of nice..
Current list of mods to make it fit include:
-converting the oil pan from its front sump design to a rear sump
-drive shaft
-motor, tranny, and diff mounts
-vmount setup (not required)
I started by cutting the oil pan down, and machining a nice clean flange for me to build off.*


Fabbed up the walls


Little drain bung

Currently just needs some welds!
Updates soon.
A bit of background; my name is Zander, I'm 19, and currently working I a machine shop. My boss let's me work on whatever I want after hours. I was previously planning on an fe3n turbo engine conversion, however circumstances changed. I was traded the engine for a 700$ turbo, and I saw the potential; all aluminum block, huge aftermarket, and of course, a tranny that can hold some real power. *Currently the engine has 264 cams, pistons, bigger injectors, and a real greddy intake. *Still has the stock t25 for now.


To fit this engine is not as bad as it would seem. *With the cas positioned how it is on the bp, you loose firewall clearance. *The sr does not have this issue, and will come forward in the engine bay just as far as the bp. *The shifter even sits just an inch farther back than stock, which is really kind of nice..
Current list of mods to make it fit include:
-converting the oil pan from its front sump design to a rear sump
-drive shaft
-motor, tranny, and diff mounts
-vmount setup (not required)
I started by cutting the oil pan down, and machining a nice clean flange for me to build off.*


Fabbed up the walls


Little drain bung

Currently just needs some welds!
Updates soon.
Last edited by Boost_addict; Dec 25, 2010 at 10:24 AM.
I see v-mount setup. You better not be one of these V-mount guys that acutally do a 7-mount...where the trend lately has been laying the IC flat if not even titled forward.
looks like good work far!
looks like good work far!
Woot!
Labor is free (well, time = money but w/e)

I love the custom pan work btw. I debated doing that for my build, but I'm just going to customize the subframe to deal with it all. Didn't want to run into sealing issues and the pan design on the VQ is bit different also.
I don't see it in the pics... but are you bolting the pan down to anything? (spare block/thick steel etc...)
I'd really recommend that to avoid warping, even if you are spacing your welding from side to side and stuff.

I love the custom pan work btw. I debated doing that for my build, but I'm just going to customize the subframe to deal with it all. Didn't want to run into sealing issues and the pan design on the VQ is bit different also.
I don't see it in the pics... but are you bolting the pan down to anything? (spare block/thick steel etc...)
I'd really recommend that to avoid warping, even if you are spacing your welding from side to side and stuff.
I don't understand why everyone is so defensive: the only hate towards sr swaps that I know of in here was in that retarded "sr swap bracket kit" thread where they basically wanted 2k for it.
I don't think there's anything wrong with an sr swap if you absolutely want to do it and do it right.
That said good start OP. What churbo you plannin to use with that setup?
I don't think there's anything wrong with an sr swap if you absolutely want to do it and do it right.
That said good start OP. What churbo you plannin to use with that setup?
I don't understand why everyone is so defensive: the only hate towards sr swaps that I know of in here was in that retarded "sr swap bracket kit" thread where they basically wanted 2k for it.
I don't think there's anything wrong with an sr swap if you absolutely want to do it and do it right.
That said good start OP. What churbo you plannin to use with that setup?
I don't think there's anything wrong with an sr swap if you absolutely want to do it and do it right.
That said good start OP. What churbo you plannin to use with that setup?
I think it's interesting...and have seen some nice ones. I don't get pulling your 2.4L motor out of the SX for this, but makes sense in old 510s, early Z cars, and Miatas.
Lot of work for a little more potential, but the character of the motor is much more fitting to the Miata.
Lot of work for a little more potential, but the character of the motor is much more fitting to the Miata.
I don't understand why everyone is so defensive: the only hate towards sr swaps that I know of in here was in that retarded "sr swap bracket kit" thread where they basically wanted 2k for it.
I don't think there's anything wrong with an sr swap if you absolutely want to do it and do it right.
That said good start OP. What churbo you plannin to use with that setup?
I don't think there's anything wrong with an sr swap if you absolutely want to do it and do it right.
That said good start OP. What churbo you plannin to use with that setup?
Being baffled!
Yup. Honestly, when I drive my wife's G20, which I think weighs somewhere in the 2700 lb range, I can't help but wish my Miata had that motor. An SR20 with bolt ons would be plenty of fun, usable power...
More than just a little. A set of JWT S4 cams, larger injectors, and a T28 will get you 300whp easy. Make it a GT2871 and it's more like 400whp. This is on a stock bottom end, no headwork, and with a stock cast iron exhaust manifold.
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