I know your probly dead set on gloss black, but I myself would recommend a lighter color. It helps with visibility in the bay and helps finding possible problems easier!

Got a bit more work done..

Attachment 191855

Much better now!
You can see how I tucked my wires here ( not fully tied up in this pic)

Attachment 191856

Also took a few pics of new and old side by side, you can see a bit of difference, especially height

Attachment 191857

Attachment 191858


Next up, mounts!

Any reason your keeping all the airbag wiring? You can ditch a couple pounds easily by tossing it as well as really limiting the amount of wiring running to the nose of the car.

-Zach

Looks good. Gloss black is a good color. I don't think there are many situations where a light color would help detect a leak (seeing how most things that will leak aren't going to end up on your inner fender wells). I second getting rid of the airbag stuff unless you are keeping airbags.

Having a lot of black in my engine bay, I don't really recommend it. It's kinda like looking into a black hole- you can't see shit.

Is both inlet and outlet for the coolant out the front (on each side) of the block?

yeah. its been a while, so I forget how its routed. I just know that the upper one is on the drivers side and has a bleed screw ** genius **

Here was my first 240... I cant find any close up right now (not on my computer At the moment)
Attachment 191843

It enters the head(right) and exits the block(left)

That makes coolant pipe routing pretty easy, what radiator are you going to use?

It's some random aftermarket aluminum rad which I'm just getting used off a friend, it has just enough space to fit with the v-mount. Pipe routing won't be too easy, it is of the vertical flow type.
I will also likely cut up the right side entrance and weld an overflow can for the vmount right there.

Small update; finally got a rollbar in, really stiffens up things.

You can see my sweet panoramic mirror too.. I never have to turn my head driving! :D

Attachment 191282

I have also found a donor shell to use as a template for my mounts.. So updates will be here soon.

So the swap isn't done yet?
I was just browsing through the build section yesterday and wondered if you were done yet. I remember you saying you'd finish it up fast..

whats left?

Yeah I had a lot of shit come up, so I haven't touched the car in a month.. So now it's back to a few hours after work every day till it's DONE! Lol I still have the mounts to make, then everything else that it takes to get your average turbo 4 running..

read all these pages.. looks like a good build..

Thank you. ;)

Right now I am working on the motor mounts.. I'll have pics up soon.

Small update

Got the main plates for each mount made. The stock mounts were about 3" forward, 3" upward, and about an inch inward from the subframe mounts... Because of this, taking an accurate measurement seemed impossible..
The idea here is to bolt the plates up and take measurments again, just for the mounting tabs.

Attachment 191169

Attachment 191170

Stock mounts for comparison:

Attachment 191171

You can see the bullshit shape I had to copy:

Attachment 191172





Also wanted to hear peoples input on solid (Delrin) mounts.. I have a rod of 1.5" Delrin here at the shop, so I can make them for free.. Just curious to know If I'll hate having them on my DD.

Anyways, updates soon.

Looks good. I would like the delrin mounts but I don't care about noise and vibrations being transmitted through my car. I would think delrin would be pretty close to solid mounts and would send a lot of noise and vibration into the car

Noise is no issue, but as far as vibrations go, how bad is it really? Teeth chatteringly bad, or just more like a go cart?

cool build. subscribed.

have a few (hopefully helpful) comments. (i have a '92 with s13 sr20det).

yeah, the motor mounts are not super straightforward. i would recommend watching carefully at which angle you mount the motor. if you keep the original tilt then the shifter should have good position when you are done. if the motor is mounted basically straight up and down (like mine), then the shifter is pointed all wrong and you have to bend it. (in my case, bending it meant destroying the original rubber bushing, so i had to pour a new urethane one).

on the speedo, i wanted a full set of sensors, so i went with aftermarket dash (aim mxl strada) because i found a group buy on it. i'm running the speedo off one of the rear axle abs rings. at 44 teeth per revolution, i got one of the most accurate speedo's around :)

i'll bet u could make your own ppf that adapts to the sr gearbox. on my car i have reinforced subframe (no ppf). i can post pics if you would like to see how it worked out.

when you are positioning the motor, you may want to see if you can leave enough space between motor and firewall so you could do a ve head swap later on. i'm itching to try a ve head and a 6258 or 3071gtx

good luck with build

EDIT: forgot one thing. for driveshaft, i just told the shop the spline count on the sr20 output shaft, and the bolt pattern on the miata torsen diff. he had the yoke and flange in stock and made me a steel driveshaft for approx $330 (iirc). the trick is to give him an accurate measurement for the length...

Jasonb


I was planning on lining up the engine vertical.. Do you think this will throw off my shifter location so substantially, like in inches, what are we talking? I've gotta look into that Vvt head clearance thing to. Also, with the ppf, are you recomending i modify the ppf to fit the tranny, or make a tranny mount that fits the ppf? Ill take any help I can get so any pics you are willing to share, please feel free to post them

Thanks for your help