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Excellent thread. Love it.
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Originally Posted by jasonb
(Post 688037)
i haz a sudden fascination w/ that drawing.
found this in one of my photos from earlier today. um. http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...m_DSC02219.jpg |
It looks like your design is pretty solid really. The only thing I see is that the rear bolt seems to be off-center in it's upper hole, and maybe the spacer as well. I would look to see if you can extend the subframe pickup point straight to the top off the diff, possibly with a tighter tolerance on those bolt holes.
Do you have any calipers? Should make the job a snap.. |
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Small update
Got around to "adding lightness" to the passenger side mount today.. I was using one of the 3axis cnc machines Manually. This means there was no automated program to run, it was instead manually moved on each axis independently (manually ou cannot move in two directions at once). As you may Imagine (some of you) that means making that little 45* cut was very obnoxious... :lol: I had to go 10 thou at a time in each direction then smooth it out on the buffing wheel. Attachment 191043 I am happy to see my mounts are coming right along, and I'm confident it won't be too long at all before I can move on to the tranny and diff mounts :D Anyways, as always, updates soon. |
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm
(Post 688097)
Looks like you have a little issue. Is it possible that your attachment point is to close to the pivot point? The further away from the fulcrum point the less effort required to control the load.
true that small issue i haz. i think i will try to rig up something where you have your heim joint piece so that all of the longitudinal stress isn't going through such a short lever arm (what u said). do you have any pics of yours from the side? i've been under the car and i still can't puzzle out how to fix it for good. looking for pic something like this view: Attachment 190421 |
After reading the other sr20 swap thread in here, it looks like I may be going another way with The diff mount, and I bet you'll agree. The idea is to box In the rear subframe, and place a vertical support between the top of the subframe, and the newly added brace. From there a simple bracket will extend to connect the diff. There's numerous benefits from a setup like that, and it's easy as well.
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 689019)
As you may Imagine (some of you) that means making that little 45* cut was very obnoxious... :lol: I had to go 10 thou at a time in each direction then smooth it out on the buffing wheel.
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 689019)
As you may Imagine (some of you) that means making that little 45* cut was very obnoxious... :lol: I had to go 10 thou at a time in each direction then smooth it out on the buffing wheel.
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I think its funny that the SR20DET is now becoming a motor more seen in the miata well being put in a miata but you get what im saying. Also might i ask what is your location you dont have it listed. If you are close im going to have to stop by and take a look some time.
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Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 701350)
This immediately brought to mind memories of the frustration of making diagonal lines on an Etch-a-Sketch.
Originally Posted by miatamike203
(Post 701492)
I think its funny that the SR20DET is now becoming a motor more seen in the miata well being put in a miata but you get what im saying. Also might i ask what is your location you dont have it listed. If you are close im going to have to stop by and take a look some time.
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 701623)
Sorry to say I'm down here in sunny south florida, so we may not be able to check each others cars out :/
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Well maybe we can work something out then. I just have to focus on getting things made again, my life has been so busy I can't keep up. Haha.
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LOL i know the feeling now that im starting school again.
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Got a bit of bad news guys. After being fucked out of the turbo, injectors, ecu and wiring harness AND loosing a place to hold the engine, it looks like I'm selling the swap.
All it is now is the block with it's coilpacks, turbo manifold, greddy Mani, and the Internals like the clutch and cams. The oil pan is done, but the motor mounts and pickup tube are incomplete. I'm asking 3000 for everything.. Which is damn good considering to buy a stock block and tranny is at least 2000. The miata specific oil pan would be over 2000. a greddy intake is over 500, this one is chrome as well.. Please let me know if you are interested, pm me. |
I have tons of extra parts ecu and more if thats what you need. Im going to be sad to see it not done.Also any news on the drive shaft?
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Originally Posted by miatamike203
(Post 711799)
I have tons of extra parts ecu and more if thats what you need. Im going to be sad to see it not done.Also any news on the drive shaft?
Unless you could make me some mounts too idk if I could. I no longer work at the machine shop.. Let's say having you girlfriends father as your boss is not the best idea. If your interested we could talk though, I'll pm you Y number |
Bump on these parts... nothing has been parted. I would trade it If someone had the right offer.. Like a nice turbo setup, or maybe cash + the right wheels.. Somebody make me an offer please.
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pm' , i need some info!! i hhave mike old car.
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SR 20 sump
Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 669819)
First and foremost, if you don't like, agree with, or understand why i would do this swap, you can gtfo. I am doing this because it's fast, cool and unique.. Not because of the opinion of some Internet voice....
A bit of background; my name is Zander, I'm 19, and currently working I a machine shop. My boss let's me work on whatever I want after hours. I was previously planning on an fe3n turbo engine conversion, however circumstances changed. I was traded the engine for a 700$ turbo, and I saw the potential; all aluminum block, huge aftermarket, and of course, a tranny that can hold some real power. *Currently the engine has 264 cams, pistons, bigger injectors, and a real greddy intake. *Still has the stock t25 for now. Attachment 192214 Attachment 192215 To fit this engine is not as bad as it would seem. *With the cas positioned how it is on the bp, you loose firewall clearance. *The sr does not have this issue, and will come forward in the engine bay just as far as the bp. *The shifter even sits just an inch farther back than stock, which is really kind of nice.. Current list of mods to make it fit include: -converting the oil pan from its front sump design to a rear sump -drive shaft -motor, tranny, and diff mounts -vmount setup (not required) I started by cutting the oil pan down, and machining a nice clean flange for me to build off.* Attachment 192216 Attachment 192217 Fabbed up the walls Attachment 192218 Attachment 192219 Little drain bung Attachment 192220 Currently just needs some welds! Updates soon. cheers Bob |
ask him again in 8 years
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