I have to say I don't mind this welder. The welds are all extremely ugly as its Flux core, but it seems to be getting decent penetration. These are some brackets that I welded up for the seats. I know these aren't very safe as is and plan on making a non half assed version in a little bit. Safety is one thing I do value in vehicle.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460056046<br >https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460056046<br >

the bird poo is engineered to reinforce the structural integrity of the professional grade reinforcement orifice

well done

I disagree with that wholeheartedly. I have seen in many places someone doing their job wrong for 30 years. I also agree that green engineers with no real-world experience are frustrating too. But it is impossible to judge someone without working with them IMO.

Metal is not clean. thats one of the reasons there are so many holes in the weld.

I actually agree with Aidan on the 30 years thing.

I can think of at least a dozen of places where total morons work for dozens of years doing the absolute worst job possible, yet they will likely work there till they die because either they do just enough for no one to care, or their boss is just as terrible

What are you doing for back brace?

also
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d70cdcb57.png

get some gas?

Can't add gas to HF welder.

just eat a burrito

1. Yes you can. Lincoln parts, google.
2. Buy a real welder
3. Weld in a temp and humidity controlled CO2 (or inert gas of your choosing) filled room. Probably the best, easiest option TBH.

sean is right, my dad actually added gas to both of his LIncoln 120's

Who wouldn't be pissed off at that? That's a lack of respect and professionalism. I'm not sure who would condone that type of behavior.

Being a small company, I'm sure TSE wouldn't keep someone as an employee if they were terrible at their job. Large companies, such as tier 1 aerospace companies, will keep someone on their payroll who flat out sucks forever because their boss also sucks like Vlad mentioned. It's called poor management.

:rofl: Those welds look better than my welds

QFT. This is the basis for why the postal service is upside down.

This was done with the 90amp flux core HF special after some practice. I learned to weld with that machine.
It looks like you're moving way too fast. You need to build the puddle and let the flux dissolve into it for the welds to work right.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460067909

Agreed, it looks like your weld is sitting on top of the metal.

OP- You can do decent welds with a flux core. You need to try though. Clean the metals you're going to weld, setup the wire speed and power correctly, use flux core wire if you don't use shielding gas. Make sure you have good power going to the welder since it's probably 110V, if you plug that into a crap extension cord it's not going to get full power. I run a 10 gauge power cord that cost as much as your welder.

This was done with a flux core. Welds on left done with a cheap flux core that had automatically-varying (read-broken motor controller) which caused wire speed to randomly go too fast (thus spots where weld builds up). Weld on right with new flux core welder that's not broke.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460068898


This with new flux core welder too.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460068898

I've gotten some pretty good welds with the hf welder. I can assure you that in this case the metal was clean. It wasn't able to get enough power from the extension cord and power strip it was plugged into. That, and the tip was filthy so it would slow the feed unexpectedly.

Does anyone know what's behind the seats, in the middle? Going to run a bar across for seat support and hoping to be able to drill and tap into that middle section. Wondering if there's anything important there. Thanks

Floppy dick sheet metal

Not only is his manifold going to break in several places, but so will his spine if he ever crashes. YIPPEE!!!!

It's okay. The stellar welds holding the seat brackets to the floor will help it. I'm sure there will be some 'full race' harnesses to keep everyone firmly planted!

First: "Safety is one thing I do value in vehicle"

Immediately followed by: you learning to weld in your safety equipment with the cheapest welder known to man, using a cheap extension cord and power strip that isn't rated for this type of work at all.

Wouldn't be surprised if your seat mounts break off when you really have to push hard on the brakes...

both confused and entertained :giggle:

Why can't you use your new degree to go make some money to buy real safety equipment and just bolt it in? at least until your fab skills are a little better...

I'm not learning to weld. I'm going to be re welding those in a little bit as soon as I can get the car out of the storage unit and into a place with better equipment. I was just playing with the fitment of the bracket. I guess the rear panel won't work as a back brace :(

Yeah you can fold the rear package shelf sheetmetal by hand if you try. It's thin stuff

im going to throw you a bone

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/

Yeah, I looked through that a while ago. Pretty cool

So in case anyone was curious the car is driveable now and all back together. Just have to attach the exhaust, put in a boost gauge, and put some bracing on the seats with a roll bar or half cage. I've read that once you have a cage and fixed back seats it's actually safer to run harnesses? How do you guys feel about this. Waiting on an appointment from granite state dyno for a tune. This is the closest I could find to me unless someone has a better suggestion.

Photos ?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460639508

Yeah I'll get some next time I'm around the car. Have just been busy lately. Although there isn't much to see that hasn't already been posted.

The car runs okay on a basic map I put together. Waiting on an aspx boost gauge,ebay catch can, and some exhaust piping. So far the build has cost in total $4853, I still need a cage, a harness system, and a better rear diff setup whether it's welding or buying a different one, and to fix the now ripped rear window. I took some pictures I thought you guys would love and so you could see how good my work really is.



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461112717

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461112717

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461112717

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461112717

a++ work as expected, good job!

Some people have no shame.

This just keeps getting better!

Enginearing tips and tricks: Sealing Pressurized Hose Connections, Vol. 1!

The amount of different types and colors of RTV and various other sealants and tape used on any single hose joint is quite impressive.

*raises hand*

What is that red shit. Looks like you just got off your period.

No, even you arnt this bad. And thats some serious shit right there.

I was surprised at how strong the Kerky seat is, this seat did not have a back brace and it did much better than the oem pasenger seat.https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461122298

Hai guise just want to point out for the people that haven't gone to enginearing school like me that for the oil lines f=pa where p is 60psi and a is 5/8 ID tube so r is.3125. F=18.4 lb force. Think a hose clamp and rtv can't support that? Think again :p we all need to live closer to "if it looks stupid and works, it's not stupid"

Had I gone with the FM II kit, my cost would be $7,416 to get to the point I'm at right now and hopefully a lot less hassle. Even if this manifold breaks five times, I would not purchase the kit. Will keep the cost analysis going as things break.

ok

Never seen so many -cats in one post :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Its about acceptable practice, not "this can theoretically work in a vacuum"

Part of me thinks hes trolling, but those are real pics....

So ill bite
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1315792

Spent less than you, including torsen, and I have a real manifold, rods only build, and....

he's definitely trolling, he's even kinda proud of it.
I think the most amusing part is that when it is all said and done, he'll end up with a pile of scrap and a ton of cash in the garbage, and realize he could have already saved enough cash for half an engine build, but has to start over and has neither a good setup nor a built engine.

but this is way more entertaining :)

This is fuckin hilarious. $5k isn't even close to a budget build. I thiiiink I was under 3k driving on the road turbo'd (that number has since skyrocketed because track car lul)

I haven't talked to anyone who has a solid build under 8k honestly. Most people pay 4-5k for the car alone. But Sean your build is mint. I don't have access to a mill or lathe, 240v, a good welder, air compressor, or more than a 10x10 storage unit unless I go out of my way to a friends. Otherwise I would like to do what you did. In my opinion 5k is pretty decent for not using fueling bandaids and whatnot. I'm trolling with the fittings and whatnot but in all honesty they'll work fine and I laugh at most people on here for caring too much. I'll be surprised if I have to replace anything except the turbo or manifold.

our only fault is that we care too much :likecat:

I know that you guys are knowledgeable for the most part, but the fact that someone can be so furious about how something gets done cracks me up. As long as it works it works. Way more fun that way if you ask me!

psh, not for long suutututu.

It doesn't work. You suck at budget, fabbing, and everything else. I don't know of anyone angry, we're all just busy laughing at you.

Now go crack the manifold. I bet you can't even make it a thousand miles.

Disappointed, amused, disgusted, maybe even mildly annoyed, but no one is furious. When that line lets go, pukes oil all over the road, and causes an accident, then maybe someone will be furious.

I'd still laugh, but I'm weird like that

There are plenty of builds way under the 8k mark. You can get an MKturbo setup for like $1500 or something? Then an ECU, injectors, clutch, ebay intercooler.

ECU: You can build an ms1 for dirt freaking cheap.
Injectors: You can get some rx7's for like <$100.
Ebay intercooler setup can be done for <$200.

My build....

Ebay turbo, non-shitty manifold, intercooler, and BOV. Summit exhaust bends for intercooler and exhaust, magnaflow 5x11x22, v-bands, hangers, couplers, oil lines, FM1 clutch and flywheel, 4.10 torsen swap, MS2, sequential fuel, rx8 injectors, mtx-l, and a boost gauge.

I spent $2600 total, for all that shit. Not even all at once. Out the gate, no clutch or torsen I was reliably turbo'd for $1700 bucks. Price breakdown for all my shit is at the beginning of my thread.

I just drove my car 400 miles yesterday, I'd drive it across the country without worry. Ultra reliable, ultra cheap.

Spend more than 3K on ebay shit and you've done it wrooooooong.

Unless you are running a sequential turbo setup. Using all ebay parts...

Though pat might have even gotten under the 3k mark.

I am pretty sure most of my customers end up between $3000-$4000 to turbo their cars, not including the price of the car. The majority follow the same steps and use the same parts overall, most parts I recommend are a bit higher quality and a bit more expensive then you have to spend if you want to be super cheap.

1. MKTurbo setup and oil line kit - $1685
2. FM1 clutch - $350
3. FlowForce Injectors - $300
4. MS of some sort - $500-$1150
5. Widebane either MXT-L or UEGO - $175
6. Vibrant 12800 Intercooler - $161
7. IC piping and such - $200

And that is a legit build right there. It will idle and run perfectly, make as much power as the stock block can handle. And be reliable.

most of us are boredom-posting from work
I love it when people think we are actually mad any time we post negative comments

oh yeah SOOOO MADDDD BROOO

His $4853 number includes $1600 for the car, right?

How much abuse did the stock clutch take? Any guesses at power level? I've been thinking about just bolting my turbo on and seeing if my clutch will hold for a little while.

The stock clutch in my 94 started slipping around 6psi on my Begi setup with a 2554.