And I started slipping around 7psi, but it lasted for a while because I was mostly city driving at that time. It let loose on the highway in 4th onece and never worked right again, even in the city. I'd guess sub 150ft/lbs.

That's 1.6 clutch though, and I was trying to protect a 1.6 VLSD...

My freind has ~$3000 into his turbo 91. But he payed $1500 for the car with turbo stuff already installed (egay t3, mani, downpipe, intercooler, bov) but it has an LC2 wideband, DooDoobox and MSD. Most of the money has gone into maintinance (new roof, breaks, tires, wheels, shocks) and such.

Stock clutch and 1.6 open dif are holding, the boost guage claims 9psi, but I don't beleive it since it has 1.8 injectors that have no problem pushing into the 9s for AFR. I bet closer to 5-7ish PSI.

Voodoo abd MSD will soon be replaced with a Link (it was cheap) and a "formerly greddy kit". ARtech greddy replacement manifold (ceramic coated), turbo tony downpipe, tdo4 and line. He got all that for $450. Should be able to break even selling what is on the car now.

As long as you guys realize that I started with a bone stock miata, and modified it with everything to produce 200-250whp for under $5k, which includes the price of the car, please talk as much as you want. There are plenty of people who run rx7 instead of ev14 and there are plenty of people who run a piggy back instead of an mspnp2. There are plenty of people who spend 1000 on a turbo and plenty who spend 150. These are choices I made and so far am pretty happy with the results, and I don't believe many people have as powerful of a car for the price. I can't explain to you how much I don't care about the reliability of this car so it's not an argument I'm even going to engage in. The only people on here who have even remotely gained my respect are 18psi because he seems to recognize a troll, and Sean because he built a good car for a good price. But on a side note it's pretty obvious that you're all frustrated about this thread. How frustrated would you be if my oil lines never need to be repaired and my manifold doesn't crack?

But if what you guys say is true, I am glad we are all laughing. When you grow up farming in northern maine it's awful hard to care about stuff like how the oil line is attached. I'll keep you guys updated.

Oh also how horned up would everyone be if I said I was primarily interested in drifting? :rofl:

It's still mud season where you are. Then the black flies will be out...

Well mud season doesn't mean the roads are muddy :p

You'd think as an engineer you'd be paid enough to build something that doesn't look like a blind 3 year old assembled it.

Youd also think if you are going through the trouble of justifying the cheap parts that will break leak under perform ect you'd also consider your personal time into fixing it over and over and ghettofying everything 6 times instead of doing it once and being done.
I'm all for saving money don't get me wrong I have a eBay manifold on my build that very well could make 800+ whp with a better rear end and bigger injectors or racegas. I have a eBay AN oil feed/return line ect there are plenty of times to save money you just picked shitty places.

Budget Build ~250hp review of parts/services/longevitiy/costs
 

@shortpersonbk-
I take exception with much of what you have said. I cobbled my car together from mostly used parts in an incremental fashion because I wasn't interested in spending a lot of money on amusing myself. And I enjoyed hammering and tinkering as much as anything else that came from the build. Having the money to buy better parts has never been the issue. Choosing to spend the money is the difference.

Cobbling is fine I'm not saying buy a $7500 kit. If you ever take a look at my junk it is not a kit not super baller just basic parts where I saved money where I could and spent it else where when I needed. An ebay oil feed/return is what like $60? instead some 5/8ths line with a bunnch of rtv to adapt it is the answer?

Sounds like a great idea till some rtv breaks off and blocks the feed for the turbo starving it or a small hole appears and sprays pressurized hot oil all over your block during a pull starting a sweet fire.

In b4 drifts into solid object anyways.

I would agree with you except the feed line is braided stainless with fittings from the local hose store. Please correct me if I'm wrong but the only thing people are considering cheaped out on really is the manifold and the rubber oil drain hose? Everything else is of high quality so just not sure what everyone is so upset about. Is it the fact that the welds on the wg bracket look crappy even though they are solid? Or is this style of hoon mobile just not welcome here? I'm actually wondering... Aside from the fact that I troll quite a bit.

Idk to be honest the closer to positive post cats I get the bigger dick I become on here.

Oh well honestly I haven't seen anyone on here who I wouldn't consider a typical forum dick so don't worry about it :p

I just wish this dude would replace the broken "enter" key on his keyboard.

Wall-o-text is so damn hard to read.







inb4 "Oh I'm an engineer not an English major so I don need to be gud at grammar n sh*t."

Ya rly no need to be gud at grammer wen u can jus type from ur phone. Dnt havea job cuz im too stupid for ne1 to wanna hire me neway so i have a hard tim gettin a new keybored wit no $$$

dole.

Trying to justify this ghetto garbage of a setup for the scientific sake of it and to say 'oh I'll just fix it along the way' is a very stupid approach to turbocharging your vehicle.

Recommended kits that have already been pointed out to you include allthethings that you'd ever need to have a reliable setup. You will get tired eventually of fixing your junk, spending money when you should of been done with it already. :burncash:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461250754

Today I'll be doing an exhaust that's not half assed. I welded a short downpipe onto the flange to drive it to a nice tig setup. I'll put up some pictures when it's done.

I drove the car some yesterday and some ic piping popped apart under full boost (14 psi on the gt2554) and my tune really isn't the best although it does run safe afrs all the time which is mostly what I care about.

The stock clutch hasn't slipped yet but I'm sure it will soon. There are 140k miles on the current oem clutch and tranny and the engine has 160k. The car is extremely fun to drive and I'm looking forward to spending more money on it.

Fair enough girzor. But nobody has really identified what is so bad about this build other than the fact that I may have made a poor decision with the manifold I chose, and the way the oil drain is set up. All of the important stuff (engine management, fueling, suspension, gauges, etc) are what I'm pretty sure everyone else would buy if they had similar performance goals.

What's the timing map look like?

So here's a a picture of the map and of the exhaust. I either got the spark table from somewhere on here or used one on here as a reference, can't remember. The cast flange was hard to weld on, let's see what you guys think.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461281569


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461281569

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461281569

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461281569

why are you running such low timing in the non-boost cells?
and that dp design is pretty bad for flow

as for your bad quality question: manifold is one of the most important things in a build after ecu and injectors. that's why

You;re going to get tonnes of failures. Basically its going to fall off.

You cheated the fuck out of that radius.

the real question now, which will fail first? hehe

Im taking $5 bets. PM me for paypal.

Options:
1. OP
2. manifold
3. hardware
4. rod bearings

Yeah I had a hard time with that downpipe without trimming other stuff. Oh well. Did what I could. The tune is just something I thought would be pretty safe for now

What radius was it? It looks like you have more room, and you can trim the shelf back a bit before it opens up to the hollow cavity, I think.

Edit- nm, it doesn't really matter, you'll have a new mani soon.

I agree with you I should have trimmed the shelf. Ran out of time and figured it would have to do. Obviously it's not the best for flow but I think it'll do fine :)

you can also take a good size hammer and get rid of a lot of the shelf lolol.

1. Already failed though...

Okay well, I think I'm going to stop posting here as I haven't gained any useful knowledge from this thread and anything I need to know is elsewhere on the forum, but I will still eventually update this when something breaks or when I have dyno sheets :drama:

People told you heaps of stuff that you clearly didnt know.

as well as boosted.

The exhaust looks better than I could have done and I can certainly respect the DIY effort that went into it. Looks like a pretty solid first attempt to me. I'm interested to see how it holds up.

In for -50 prop cats.

I'm not sure what to tell you. I couldn't disagree more. The only thing I have learned is that buying a cxracing manifold is a death wish on this forum, and that people don't appreciate things that don't have a clean appearance no matter how mechanically sound they are. I will still update it periodically for anyone who is actually interested in failures etc.

"im a troll, this all on purpose, I love how furious you guys are, im gay too......"

".... why wont anyone feed me?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?"

if you could read between the lines, you've learned your spark map is ridiculously retarded.

If you could read at all...

More safe to manifold, he wants it to fail ASAP.

Retard all the things, that's the name of the thread, right?

So are you really this trolly, like keep a better timing map around that doesn't suck? Or do you just enjoy having shitty things? Are you really that unaware of how shitty you've made it?

<3 this thread, don't forget to update cupcake!

I have no clue on how much timing is normally ran on a miata to say how "low" it is but I will say low timing does not necessarily mean that it is safer or more reliable.

Retarded map makes more heat, which manifolds love. What could possibly go wrong?

Hey fellas - You can ban this account if you want; I have one that I use, just wanted to update this. Car is completely finished and is great fun. I've attached my parts log & failures with a 1/8th mile & a final weight. Cheers!

miata

8/5/15 car & bnib: tein street flex, fm frame rails, xxr wheels, 195/45 toyo prox - 1600
9/1/15 ebay lip - 42
9/1/15 ebay steering wheel - 63
10/28/15 mspnp2 + innovate afr - 1039
8/6/15 rf caliper - 31
8/6/15 f pads - 18
11/2/15 cxracing turbo manifold - 189
12/5/15 bosch ev14 injectors - 349
12/5/15 ebay gt2554 turbo - 150
2/12/16 ebay intercooler kit - 339
3/13/16 kirkey seats - 254
3/17/16 oil fittings & stainless line - 89
3/20/16 apsx boost guage - 69
3/20/16 ebay water temp gauge - 33
4/8/16 ebay catch can - 15
12/5/15 ebay ignition switch plate - 25
12/5/15 napa relays - 41
12/7/15 POR 15 - 43
3/18/16 water lines - 18
4/20/16 seat foam - 13
5/12/16 1.8 open diff & axles local - 125
5/12/16 1.8 driveshaft ebay - 42
5/16/16 ACT zm1-hdg6 - 382
5/16/16 pilot & rear main - 35
5/16/16 obx 4 point bar local - 200
ricer fire extinguisher clearly visible to public - 30
random hoses & fittings/bolts - 50
NGK plugs - 9
exhaust piping - 42

not sure on hours labor - lots with the interior, 5 turbo install, 5 & counting street tuning
official hp: not sure, fellow miata owners/car guys think 220-230ish still haven't dynod.
total cost of car + parts: $5276
weight of car with 1/2 tank gas: 1920 lbs
1/8th: 8.48 @ 87. + .31r/t and classic case of 'can't find the slip'
^ran this before putting the ACT in

notes:
stock clutch failed after 152 mi of taking 14 psi, held to 6 once it had a slipping problem
ebay steering wheel bolts stripped and wiggled out from having ps delete in tight parking areas
turbo oil seal failed after 1422 mi (running recommended .050" restrictor)
welded diffs aren't bad to daily on
manifold has 1902 mi on it with no cracking
apsx boost gauge refresh rate is like .5 sec. Useless. used $20 harbor freight mechanical instead.

That is all my friends.

Turbo seals can fail from too much heat in the exhaust also. It isn't always over pressurization. Turbo blankets can do it, over or under fueling could contribute, overly retarded spark timing, or lack of water flow to the housing. I've seen incorrect water routing more than once since I've been here. Post pics or describe source and return and we can eliminate any questions there.

LOL@ 5 hours for turbo install.

What does rt have to do with your time slip lol?

I just read this whole thread this weekend, good times. I hope the OP does come around and update on his setup, I'm a genuine fan of this build.

Hello guys. I bet WRX guy got all his -cats just from that post :P

There isn't much to update. The build has around 7900 miles on it being driven daily. The clearcoat I used over the sharpie caused the sharpie to fade, so if anyone has any ideas what to use instead of sharpie, that'd be awesome. The sharpie that's not clearcoated is holding up great, but smudges if you even rub against it. The only thing that's been really annoying so far is having to replace the crappy ebay exhaust gaskets through the entire setup.

I do have a quick serious question for everyone if anyone is willing to help. At times, when building boost but not at WOT, the miata will do what seems like lose all electrical systems in between shifts or immediately after letting off the throttle. When it does do this, it will backfire and then sometimes run on 3 cylinders for 10-15 seconds afterwards and then slowly work it's way back to normal. The megasquirt will increase the "lost sync" count when this happens. I read that losing sync is a common problem if you have a bad ground, so I made sure that wasn't the case. Additionally, the tach will drop down to 0 for a split second when this happens. The other thing worth noting is that this never happens under WOT at full boost. I can make 10-15 passes down the track and never have it happen, but then it will do it when building boost to get on the highway or taking off from a traffic light. Any suggestions? I honestly can't seem to figure it out. Thanks

Haha I never really looked at the negative/ positie cats but that's kinda funny, I have as many negative cats as posts in total :P

Unoriginal you might try starting a thread in the MS area to see if anyone who hangs out there can help.

I've looked already, can't seem to find a similar problem. Not going to bother posting because people will see that I have 3 posts total and tell me to learn how to search lol

A datalog of this happening is the best way to diagnose what's causing it.

Ya well what you're doing is sometimes referred to as "threadjacking." That's where you post in a thread that you didn't create about something unrelated to the thread. Not that we haven't all done it but it's best to just put on the flame suit and start a thread. Be as concise and articulate as possible and yes, of course, research as much as you can. And +1 for logging the events you're experiencing.

Its not threadjacking. Its a second account. Also a shitty thing to do.

I should ban him, but I'm too lazy.

It's because you secretly love me and know deep down inside how beneficial I am to the miata community :)