Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

It's okay. The stellar welds holding the seat brackets to the floor will help it. I'm sure there will be some 'full race' harnesses to keep everyone firmly planted!

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

First: "Safety is one thing I do value in vehicle"

Immediately followed by: you learning to weld in your safety equipment with the cheapest welder known to man, using a cheap extension cord and power strip that isn't rated for this type of work at all.

Wouldn't be surprised if your seat mounts break off when you really have to push hard on the brakes...

both confused and entertained

Why can't you use your new degree to go make some money to buy real safety equipment and just bolt it in? at least until your fab skills are a little better...

the_enginear

I'm not learning to weld. I'm going to be re welding those in a little bit as soon as I can get the car out of the storage unit and into a place with better equipment. I was just playing with the fitment of the bracket. I guess the rear panel won't work as a back brace :(

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

Yeah you can fold the rear package shelf sheetmetal by hand if you try. It's thin stuff

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

im going to throw you a bone

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/#post1172579

the_enginear

Yeah, I looked through that a while ago. Pretty cool

the_enginear

So in case anyone was curious the car is driveable now and all back together. Just have to attach the exhaust, put in a boost gauge, and put some bracing on the seats with a roll bar or half cage. I've read that once you have a cage and fixed back seats it's actually safer to run harnesses? How do you guys feel about this. Waiting on an appointment from granite state dyno for a tune. This is the closest I could find to me unless someone has a better suggestion.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Photos ?

the_enginear

Yeah I'll get some next time I'm around the car. Have just been busy lately. Although there isn't much to see that hasn't already been posted.

the_enginear

The car runs okay on a basic map I put together. Waiting on an aspx boost gauge,ebay catch can, and some exhaust piping. So far the build has cost in total $4853, I still need a cage, a harness system, and a better rear diff setup whether it's welding or buying a different one, and to fix the now ripped rear window. I took some pictures I thought you guys would love and so you could see how good my work really is.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

a++ work as expected, good job!

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Some people have no shame.

Dustin1824

iTrader: (2)

This just keeps getting better!

Enginearing tips and tricks: Sealing Pressurized Hose Connections, Vol. 1!

The amount of different types and colors of RTV and various other sealants and tape used on any single hose joint is quite impressive.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

*raises hand*

What is that red ****. Looks like you just got off your period.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

No, even you arnt this bad. And thats some serious **** right there.

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

I was surprised at how strong the Kerky seat is, this seat did not have a back brace and it did much better than the oem pasenger seat.

the_enginear

Hai guise just want to point out for the people that haven't gone to enginearing school like me that for the oil lines f=pa where p is 60psi and a is 5/8 ID tube so r is.3125. F=18.4 lb force. Think a hose clamp and rtv can't support that? Think again we all need to live closer to "if it looks stupid and works, it's not stupid"

Had I gone with the FM II kit, my cost would be $7,416 to get to the point I'm at right now and hopefully a lot less hassle. Even if this manifold breaks five times, I would not purchase the kit. Will keep the cost analysis going as things break.

nitrodann

ok

the_enginear

Never seen so many -cats in one post