BG Synchroshift is the absolute jam. The DSM guys are only half joking when they call it a rebuild in a bottle. It's expensive, but it revived my last DSM trans from completely worthless to daily drivable when I put it in place of the synchromesh that was in it. buy it from these guys.

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_inf...a122fe3f252c18



Before you bitch about it being 75w-90, gear oil is only thicker when its cold, and if you try to smash shifts when the car is cold you deserve broken parts. See below for evidence:


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329010794

Where are you puttingthe geadlight garnesses? Garfhg

18PSI that's funny you said that.. I just did my lights last night.

Went back today to make some progress after the clear coat had hardened.. Extended some wires and figured while it was apart I'd bake the lights. It had been on my list of things to do.

Painting the housings is an easy thing. I've done probably over 50 sets of lights. Someone asked me - so here is a quick how to:

1. Remove the headlights from the car - leave the bulbs in or remove them - doesn't matter.
2. Remove the screws from the backside of the light that run along the seam. If you find them hard to remove skip this step until after we pull the lights out of the oven (sometimes the adhesive makes these hard to remove when the lights are not hot)
3. Most automotive lights are held together with urethane. It's very playable at around 200 degrees and it usually the same consistency as the 3M window weld used to hold your windshield in, before it's dry. Do not pre-heat your oven. Set it to 215-220 and put your lights in the oven- It probably wont hurt your lights to drop them directly into 220 degrees but the slower change in temps are a better bet.
4. Give them about 15 minutes and pull your first light out. It will be hot but start at one end and work your way down the seam with a plastic pry tool of some sort. Separate the light all the way around and pull the backing from the lens. Be careful of the stringy urethane and not to get it onto any of the inside surfaces of the light. It's nasty stuff.
5. Next you'll notice that the chromed part is still inside of the clear lens - These usually only come out from one side first so don't force anything until you try both ends.
6. Now that you have it removed - Clean it with a prep- alcohol or even a window cleaner. Don't worry about scuffing the surface just use a durable flat black paint. The insides of your lights don't see much abuse.
7. Start with an extremely light coat. If you go heavy on a hard surface like the chromed plastic you'll notice the paint will cling to itself on the surface, creating little spots that aren't covered at all (fisheyes). Just a few light dusting for the first coat. Then start with the areas that will be missed with straight even coats. The little cracks and deep areas, followed up by some nice even passes until the housing is covered to your satisfaction.
8. I usually speed up the drying process by dropping the freshly painted housing back into the oven for a minute or two, then set it back into the clear lens.
9. Putting the light together is simple. Take the lens and the headlight and press them together, they wont seat very well because the urethane has cooled but just make sure they line up, then drop them back in the oven stuck together, to re-heat the urethane. After a couple of minutes you can pull it out and finish pressing them together. If you find it hard, double check that you are lined up and install the screws. They will pull the housings together. Drop it back in the oven to help everything settle and move on to the next light.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329


Needed to relocate my overflow and my washer fluid so I got a bit creative. For the coolant overflow I ended up using a 2012 Ford Focus power steering tank. The Ford mount was slightly modified and tucked it nicely under the core support.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329


For the washer fluid I wasn't about to go without. This isn't an 86 Honda. I decided to use a universal tank from the local parts store. Intended for coolant but it'll work nicely.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

Just needed to find a place to put it and transplant the pump.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

I found a good spot behind the bumper, against the frame rail.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

I extended the pump wires and mounted the tank up.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

I had planned on extending the fuse box harness and tossing it behind my glove box but after removing the mount and re-wraping the harness I was satisfied with how clean it looked. I made a mount out of flat steel I had laying around and ended up trimming off one of the mounting ears.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

The aluminum piece on the front bumper has always been an eye sore.. Oxidized and faded raw aluminum. I scuffed it, hit it with etching primer, then coated it with that durable wheel coating paint.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

The job wrapped up pretty nicely. Next I'll do the drivers side.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

The lights were a much needed touch.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329028329

holy $h!t its looking better and cleaner every day.

and more and more like my car did :giggle:

Painting the lights made a world of difference. Nice work on all of the above.

I was wondering... How do you fill he washer fluid when it's empty?

If you look really closely at the 3-4th pictures from the bottom you'll see a clear tube that comes up. That's how I fill it.

OMG...sooooo subscribed...You are my hero. This is EXACTLY the kinda build I want to do...maybe not rods and pistons (until I break something), but this year I am prepping the car very slowly to go turbo next Spring (I'm a :noob:), and I will be doing a lot of the same stuff.

Did you do a write-up on your headlight housings or tail-light tint? I wouldn't mind do the same, but want to be SURE it is clean. Your attention to detail is FLAWLESS; I can't wait to see what else you come up with. :drool:

Updated my post with some step-by-step.

SIDE NOTE: Vote for the MiataForumz.com feature of the month?

http://www.miataforumz.com/showthread.php?t=694

Haha, Thanks....and voted...you have some good competition this month though ;)

Some before and afters.. I wish I had remembered to take the before ones a little better.
http://www.miataforumz.com/attachmen...ine=1329158217

http://www.miataforumz.com/attachmen...ine=1329158217

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/8...foreafter1.png

How is your fleabay radiator holding up? And who was the source?

Also, have you considered Toyota COPs or maybe a self-made big spark kit with LSx coils? Why or why not? I have a VVT motor as well, which makes for issues with most available COPs because of the valve cover.

Ill have a standalone (prob e420c because they seem to pop up pretty regularly) in a couple of months at the most, which means I would like to go for sequential spark...You going to do the same? Get your high idle worked out?

-Joe

Radiator is holding up just fine. Car got a little warm on the Dyno so it's still too early to tell. I don't have a reroute on the car and I've yet to drive the built setup in heat, but before the build, the radiator had solved my overheating issues, don't recall the source or purchase - Just eGay.

I have yet to experience any spark blow out issues or ignition issues in general so I'm not going to touch it. I think as far as wasted spark goes- the NBB setup is about as good as it gets. 2 COP and a really short plug wire for the "wasted" cylinders, but if I find it a necessary I'll of course make the switch. Plus from what I understand unless you're having issues - Sequential will only provide better fuel economy, power wouldn't be any different compared to Wasted Spark. The earlier MX-5's had the problems if memory serves me.

I think my next move is going to be intake mani related. From what I've gathered from the thread of 24 something pages of nearly worthless information about the Honda intake manifold- Someone needs to do it properly and show before and after results to prove it's a worthwhile solution.

Need to source a flange - If anyone has a source - shoot me a PM. Otherwise I'll be asking friends who can source some CNC work.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329233302

I was starting to feel that way about the stock dual COPs too, they work fine, everyone seems to hail the smoothness of the Toyota COPs though, whether running wasted OR sequential. As for the radiator...I found on on there that looks just like yours...you said its complete drop-in with how low-pro the fans are...whats the core thickness? about 35mm?

I can prep CAD Models that will output G-code...IFFF I know exact dimensions haha.

I just sent my CNC plasma cutter guy a message. If he has time to mess with any side work, I'll get you his info.

Inspection.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329257920


None of that garbage in Michigan.

Toooo much win for one thread...:bowdown:

Awesomeness by the truck load for the attention to detail...love the head lights, although copy rights still remain with the Boss.(18psi)
Great to hear no spark problems and nearly filled my pants with mud pie after hearing about the M6?:gtfo:

SHOULD HAVE TOLD THE SHITTY M6.....

KEEP DROOLIN I'M SPOOLIN!

New toys showed up...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330100921

Your car made me miss my white one so much, that I just picked up a white 01 just like yours:D

I too am curious about the egay rad you got: did you have any fitment issues whatsoever? You're still on stock fans right? Any feedback appreciated since I'm getting one soon.


Also what are the spring rates on those HKS?

Oh and your plans to fully document intake manifold build are FANTASTIC.

Check here for IM flange:
http://www.weir-tech.com/

Also there is a current and active thread in another section with a link to an Intake Manifold DIY site with pretty much every single IM related item for sale.

You could also check with our resident fabricators: Artech, Turbotim, gotpsi?, and a few others who I'm sure either have these flanges or have access to them.

eBay radiator is holding up just fine. Again- I'll wait until the first hot day on this setup to confirm- but on my stock bottom end and factory radiator the car would overheat. After installing the radiator my overheating went away.

Spring rates are 392/280.

Check here for IM flange:
http://www.weir-tech.com/

Mazda 1.8L BP intake head flange 3/8" mild steel <<<< Mild steel?

You can't weld aluminum to steel. We need an aluminum flange for BP4W heads. And others. :idea:

ouch. I hope that's a type-o lol

Are you referencing the spring rates?

He's talking about the useless mild steel intake manifold flange on Weir-tech.

correct

the spring rates don't sound bad at all. I remember the guys saying 400/250 is a great combo for a street car. yours are right around that area

I'm getting a bit of bounce though. Might be a bad shock.

I get a knock in the rear of the car if I push on the truck lid.... Sounds like a metal on metal thing.

Could be a blown shock, but i would guess something was left loose, first.

Still toying with WOT shifting:

This is still boost by gear 10PSI - 13PSI and then 19 on up.

GOD. IN. HEAVEN. :drool::bowdown::cjerk:

Glorious build thread. Giving me ideas on the new miata. Good thing I'm starting a new higher paying job.

Check your engine.

So I came home yesterday and this is what I found. I intentionally park way off to the side of my parking lot to avoid other cars parking next to me..
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330533210

But MMmmm... Look what showed up in the mail today... :drool:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330533210

Can you give a ride report after installing that. Just want to know what you find now in NHV and stiffness both cruising and under load.
Thanks

PFF brace is great. I was getting some pretty significant slop in the shifter and what felt like wheel hop but wasn't really. It used to be my diff bouncing around. Now it's solid. My shifts are more precise. I do hear gear noise from the diff but it's actually a pretty nice note and makes me feel like I'm driving a rally car.

I would however recommend using the brace with replacement poly diff mounts - I have poly mounts but they are not installed and the thought of the top of the diff being able to slop around and this brace being the only somewhat solid link, does not sit well with me. This is the same theory as using one solid engine mount on an engine.. Not a good idea.

Where did you buy your PPF brace? GoMiata? Oh, and Imma PM you about those lights in a few mins.

My car had 240000kms on it and some associated drive train slop so I put in the poly diff mounts. (get a air chisel and you don't even have to drop the diff). That helped a good amount with shifting feel as well. I also notice some additional drive train noise but I don't mind it and really its not too intrusive.

I wonder if that triangle design could be a DIY piece?

It could be but most people don't notice that the brace from Beatrush has poly mounts in the design. I purchased steel to make my own brace first and decided against it.


So after reading about the life expectancy of the BEGI s4 Stainless Steel manifold I noticed that they offer a brace to go from the extra hole on the downpipe to the motor mount bolt.

The BEGi mount has an awesome design- looks like a really nice piece. But I decided to make my own.

This is the BEGi:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330698305

So I went to the hardware store and picked up this guy:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330698305

Obviously this doesn't work so well as is but with a little modification it can be made to offer the same type of support. I welded a nut into one end and a flat shim into the other. This design allows me to just un-thread the motor mount bolt a little bit and slide the brace on.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330698305

Painted it with some high temp paint and slapped it in. Should do the trick.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330698305

The Ace I go to sells those heim joints for $10-$15 each, even in left hand threads. In case those welds fail. BEGI's price is beyond ridiculous.

Total cost of this one was 12 bucks. :giggle:

Total cost of the heim joint version should be around $40, plus whatever it costs to build/buy the threaded rod. I found those heim joints at my local Ace yesterday and thought "cool, I could make a brace or two out of these", but didn't look any harder for the compatible threaded tube with left threads on one end and right threads on the other. I assume/hope it's in one of those drawers. Can't be more than $20 though, so hopefully less than $60. Just another option if you want it a tad stronger.

So where the ---- does BEGI get $150 from?

Just spent 2 hours reading this thread from the top...TOO MUCH WIN :bowdown:

Ran into another M6 the other night :fawk:
Messed up the link.. Thank you viper

Gotcha back fellow MFZ car of the month nominee :party:

effin awesome
whats up with the cel?

that would annoy the crap out of me

CEL is probably related to the factory ECU not being connected to the engine ;)

And this dude commented on the video.. said he had traction issues on this run... I call BS but the other runs we had I was not brake boosting and we were neck and neck..

Suggestions on a clutch? Wasted mine last night... Eventually the car is getting a 30r so something that can take the power...?

949 twin disc ceramic. A real man's clutch. Great for daily driving.

Do it once do it right do it white.

That much power, I would also suggest a twin ceramic. If you want to get super crazy, there is also twin carbons out there, but that's baller status.

http://www2.advancedclutch.com/produ...search_btn.y=0

Not baller status here. But this clutch looks pretty solid for my use.

That is exactly what I had in my 00.
I hated it in traffic, once it heated up it was like a switch and was impossible to drive smoothly. Worked great when it was cold (1st 30 or so minutes of driving). Backing up it chattered like a mofo. I probably won't get one of those again, but others seem to have had better experiences with theirs.

I would HIGHLY suggest either 949's clutch or nothing "pucked" or ceramic. Both of which would be a bitch for daily driving. That limits your options since you'd need a strong pp to hold an organic disc of any type. How much tqs do with think he's making?

I'm making 290 ft lbs at the wheel now but I'm tuning for meth this week and might swap a 30r on the car in a month or so.

I also don't daily the car. That doesn't mean I don't care how much of a bitch it is to drive. Let me do some homework on this clutch. Sometimes it's worth it to go with the bigger ticket items.

I had that clutch for a couple thousand miles with a 9lb fidanza flywheel. I thought it was pretty good. Not too different than the organic disc. I guess it did chatter/skip a bit more at low speeds.

The 949 twin ceramic clutch is quite a bit more "brutal" than the ACT. Yes, I do have to slip it a good deal more from a stop to avoid megachatter. There is some specific technique you can use though to make it pull out without too much chatter. It took me a few hundred miles to figure that out. It is very fun though and it does make me feel like my car is a racecar yay.

Competition Clutch 10045-1620?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331236873

All pucked discs are going to pretty much act the same.

I had an ACT HD Organic in my first Miata, and it wasn't terrible, but I had the same clutch in a DSM, and it was a miserable piece of ---- with endless engagement issues.

Maybe call and ask Southbend Clutch about a Feramic?

What about the XT pp with the SS disk? or will that still not hold down enough torque?

It's going to be super hard on the thrust bearings, but it will probably hold the torque...

Just ordered the FM2 kit.

Good choice. I've got it. The pedal is lighter and no harder to drive than the stock clutch.