What suspension are you running? rear spring rates?
Cause I bet that has a lot to do with the hop too.

I do not think spring rates will get rid of the wheel hop.

The problem is that the ppf acts like a spring. When you launch the car. the nose of the rearend moves up, and the ppf springs back the other way. It cycles back and forth resulting in wheel hop. It is a similar problem of old leaf spring cars, but not near as pronounced.

The solution is to secure the rearend so it can not spring up and down. I have been trying to come up with a solution myself.

Hop = axle boo boos

My delrin diff mounts really made a difference in the car.

OP, I love your car, the thread and possibly you <3

Doesn't it start at the tires bouncing up and down? I know what you're saying, and I'm not arguing, rather inquiring. I was always under the impression that you want as hard as possible rear and soft as possible in front on a rwd to launch or something like that

It is the wheels suddenly speeding up and slowing down in a cycle. It eventually leads to the wheels bouncing up and down.

The stiffer bushings will help the rear from rocking forward and backwards.

I am not sure if a stiff spring will help with wheel hop or not, but I do know that it helps propel the car in a forward motion sooner, as opposed to the car squating first then moving forward. It will help the ET just a tad.

As far as the front is concerned, you want the shock to be loose as it extends out. This allows the front to rise as soon as possible to help transfer weight to the rear of the car. But when it settles down, the shock needs to be hard enough to smoothly settle the car down and not unload the back of the car, or cause damage to really fast cars that tend to wheel stand.

Awesome build....just read the whole thing.

You're right on the slop and the spring action of the drive train and diff. My differential is secured with the Beatrush Diff brace. You're right on the suspension setup with soft rear allowing it to squat - But I need to give up on launching the car. Drag suspension is not road course suspension at the same time so I'll forget it. I have way more fun on a road course.

I get rear end whine for sure! I installed my gears myself so I'm already overly paranoid but it's good to hear that someone else is getting it. It's only when I'm cruising at a steady speed, I get a whine but it's def noticeable, sounds like my dads Firebird rear end.

I :makeout: this build/thread.

:love:


I want to ask you about this..

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1315511997

Understanding you work for them aside, how do you like it? I've been thinking about buying one for my daily driver but am seriously on the fence. If I could locate one locally to play with first it would probably help, but that doesn't seem to be possible.


Do you utilize the 3g/wireless connectivity?
If so, How? Wifi tether? 3g dingledongle?
Do you make use of Google maps for navigation?
If so, does it work well?
Overall function?
Would you recommend?

I use the 3G through my iPhone bluetooth tether.
I do not use Google Maps for navigation
It works but not great for navigation - more for local points of interest.
Overall it's an awesome digital media deck. Awesome sound quality, powerful.

Look what showed up last week while I was traveling for work...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341494188

Beautiful piece, came with a raw aluminum finish so I pulled out the Mothers Billet Metal polish and went to work. An hour or so later..
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341494188

oh damn, thats nice.
very much looking forward to before/after plots with this sucker.

And DEN?

Can you get some inside shots of it for us? I'm curious to see what the velocity stacks look like inside the barrel.

Get it on quick!

I don't have the manifold with me but it looks just like this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341508520
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341508520

Clean transitions and velocity stacks with nice big openings that taper down to the port size.

Sweet! That looks like BEGI! I need to polish mine as well! Did you use elbow grease or a power unit of some sort?

Whose work
Is that. Yes i have a pity for u if it is begi

It's BEGi and the machine that polished it was of the elbow variety.

Why pity?

When is this bad boy going on and will you be using the stock tb or a larger one?

I read this whole log in one sitting last night. Im still picking my jaw up off the floor. Superb attention to detail. Sir, you indeed do NOT play.

I'm pulling the engine this weekend so maybe by next week I'll have it all back together. Stock TB.

A few things I need to do:

• Billet oil pump gears
• Front crank seal
• Oil pan gasket
• New oil return line
• Eliminate coolant lines to TB
• Run oil cooler -8 AN
• Modify valve cover for AN fittings on both sides
• Run -8AN to oil catch can
• Run Vibrant vacuum distribution block with hard lines
• Replace diff/CV seal and flush diff fluid - Inspect rear end for premature wear

go -10AN lines for both oil cooler and catch can. bigger is better! I run a single -12AN line for catch can and it's glorious so far.

GT30R Showed up today.. Weird :)

New build:

• GT30R Turbo
• Tial V-Band hot side
• BEGi custom intake manifold
• BEGi S6 Exhaust Manifold - V-Band with External WG
• Tail External Wastegate
• BEGi 3" V-Band Downpipe
• BEGi coolant re-route
• DW 1000 CC injectors
• DW 300 Fuel Pump
• SETRAB Oil Cooler -8AN Fitted
• Boundary Engineering Street/Strip Billet Oil pump

As usual- I've done enough reading to trust that each of these components is going to do exactly what I want them to. BEGi has been a great resource for me. A seriously talented group of people who are very knowledgeable when it comes to compiling a group of components that perform well together.

The BEGi items are a no brainer - quality and support are something that aren't so easy to find these days. In addition to that I was doing some poking around and found an excellent article written by Corky that was quite eye opening called, "Not all turbo systems are created equally" < Click to check it out. Most who are familiar with the brand are well aware of the overall quality being produced but there are a number of little things that make a big difference and I had no idea before reading this write up.

The S6 manifold not only looks like jewelry, it's a great flowing stainless steel manifold that externally gated and fit with v-bands. This is one area where you really don't want to cheap out. I've had half assed manifolds in the past and they've almost all failed me. This thing will absolutely see the abuse.

The GT30R turbo was my weapon of choice primarily because of the power output and it's efficiency range. My GT2860RS make some serious heat to produce the power that I'm making. It's very much so at it's limits. I can make the same power with a 30R on less boost and it would be a whole lot easier on my entire setup. My other consideration was the Borg Warner S252 turbo. It's quick, powerful and can be rebuilt but for overall reliability I've decided to stick with a Garrett oil/water cooled setup.

The Boundary Engineering pump is another no brainer - blue printed oil pump assembly and machined housing to increase flow. Since my oil cooler and VVT setup is likely going to eat up some PSI I'll be going with the street/strip pump. This addition is going to offer a huge piece of mind while I'm on the track beating the ish out of my car. Spoke with Travis about the build and he confirmed my thought that this was a better solution than running the crank dampener. Really knowledgeable guy and willing to help.

The rest of the setup is rather self explanatory but I'm excited to get rolling on the improvements.

HUNNGHHGHH

sorry, let me clean that up. Cannot wait for the new setup, because i know it'll be top notch.. Carry on.

FINALLY you spill the beans:D
It took me great effort not to say anything for this long.

Looking forward to great results.

I would advise AGAINST DW1000's. They are significantly inferior to the ID and FIC in every way. But good luck either way.

Is the S6 manifold any better than their S4?

its made of thicker material than tin cans

I also LOL'd at the giant BEGi plug that was totally not your style of posting/writing. But if they're sponsoring you, I aint one to judge.

Me too. :rofl:


In for pictures!!

The plugs are most certainly from experience. I've clearly gone with BEGi in the past and there is a reason we have this partnership today.

So boys.. look what just showed up...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342209777

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342209777

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342209777

Yumm.

If you install the new parts at your usual rate, we should be watching a dyno video in the next half hour.

That's awesome man, I can't wait to see what kind of numbers she puts down when it's all buttoned back up.

GT3071 right? looks good!

edit: nevermind, I see its the 76!

dide you order the injectors already?

Made some progress yesterday. Since I'm waiting on some parts to come in, I took care of some little detail stuff that I felt was necessary. The parts I did have were sexy but one of them didn't match...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

The cast finish on the turbo wasn't doing it for me so I started to level it out for polishing. I'd like to end up with a decent mix of polished and black finished pieces under the hood.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

Then I figured why not take some of the bs casting marks and lettering.. So I proceeded to grind those away using an aluminum bit on my die grinder.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

I felt like it was a shame to get rid of the "GARRETT" name but it just didn't look clean enough to me at this point.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

I stopped and left "ARR" to add some humor to the job. I think it's appropriate for the build.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

After the heavy cutting was done with the aluminum bit and a number of sanding discs I moved on to a 220 grit wet sandpaper by hand. The polish by hand was getting to be a real pain so I made my own out of folded paper towel and an old sock zip tied around an old sanding disc.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

Shes not finished but it's coming along really well.. ARR... :riaa:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

On the Engine-removal side of things, I stopped to test fit my beautiful BEGi intake manifold. Looks like everything is about right here. They tapped the NPT fittings on the bottom side to keep everything looking clean and it certainly does..
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

I tossed the car up as high as I could achieve on jack stands to make the removal easy.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

Shes naked and ready to come out. I'd have pulled it already but a friend of mine borrowed my cherry picker so I'm held up at this point.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

At a stand still on the engine removal, I pulled the valve cover and started to prep it for the -8AN lines I'll be using on my new breather setup. I flipped it and removed the baffles.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

Then drilled it and tapped it for my 3/8 NPT to 8AN adapters.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

I also enlarged the internal passage for more bandwidth.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342451955

Cleaned up and I was out for the night. I'll be back tonight to pull the engine.

oh dear lord all those polished bits are nice. I attempted to do the same thing on my 30r and got way too lazy and coated the compressor flat black lol

My real question is how do you KEEP the aluminum bits shiny? Mine look like crap a week after I polish anything. Your whole project is awesome and well documented. Props to you.

So I’ve ordered a couple of the components. Did some more of my usual homework and took the purchasing plunge.

Oil Pump: After further discussion with Travis he’s recommended the Street/Strip pump. I had my mind set on a Boundary pump to begin with but this seems to be my best bang for the buck. Oversized billet gears and they machine the housing for increased flow.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342533340


Fuel Components: For the power I’m looking to produce on e85 the pump was in much need of an upgrade. I’m not interested in a double pump system, an in-line system or anything like that so I’ve decided on the DW300 pump. It puts out 320LPH and is quieter than my WB pump. The other big deciding factor was the fitment. Deatsch Werks sells this pump in a vehicle specific package, so it’s a direct drop in. I also ordered their Fuel Pump Hardwire install kit to help with fluctuating voltage being supplied to the pump.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342533340

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342533340

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342533340

Are you going to change your stock fuel rails? Talking to Stephanie the fuel stock rails are only good for 300hp. I'm suprised you haven't changed your fuel rails yet. But then again you might have ordered a new fuel rail already.

The stock 1.6 fuel rail is capable of 400whp with a Walbro 255lph.

That's good to know, thanks!

just curious: are you still on stock fpr, and are you planning to stay with it on the dw300? because iirc the wally 255hp is about the most the stocker can handle.

If anything I'd love for you to at least try it with the stock fpr and get some results so the rest of us know for sure.

I'm on the stock FPR. After discussion with DW they recommend that I go with a return setup and a regulator.

But following that, Stephanie said I shouldn't have a problem. If I do - So be it, I build a return system.

Love this car. Awesome build.

I'm in the same boat....going to need to convert to returned and get aftermarket fpr. What you gonna do for the return line? Retro fit NA or just make your own?

I don't like the idea of running 25psi boost and end result only have 35psi effective fuel pressure....my ID1000s surely won't flow enough.

Where did you get the 35psi number?

subtracting rail pressure from boost pressue or something like that

60-25=35

Right - I just assumed my regulator would not be holding 60 with the big boy pump. I was making 330 at the wheels on 550cc injectors so I assumed that even my Walbro was running higher rail pressure than the stock regulator could deal with.

in for epic fuel system build.
-8an feed/return, dual feed rail, baller regulator, fuel cooler - DO IT FAGGОT

Never measured fuel pressure with my Walbro 255. I've always read the 255 overwhelmed the NA stock fpr. Not sure about the NB- its completely different obviously.

I'm not going to convert right away... I'll run stock fuel system at least for engine break-in etc and go from there. I guess it would be a good time for me to hook up a gauge and see what kinda pressure I'm actually seeing in the rail as well and determine if I actually need to upgrade.

I'd also be down for some sort of direct replacement in tank regulator and not add a return line. Say one that's for 70 or 80psi... but I have not seen any info on such a piece. I've heard of guys crushing the stock one, but......... I'll pass lol.

I got to 307 on e85 with headroom. I don't see why you couldn't hit 350 with stock fpr. past that, probably on very thin ice.

I run a DW300 on a stock NA regulator with 99 fuel rail :2cents:

If Faefae could just get 0.1% of Dem768's initiative, motivation, know-how, resourcefulness, etc. etc. we'd have a god d@mn dyno plot from him by now...

Beautiful build, makes me want a white NB so hard.

that's pretty good. with my Walbro 255 HP and 550s, at 275whp, i was somewhere around 70 ish duty cycle... which based on some ballpark calcs, made me think it was still running 60psi rail the whole time..

IDK, I'd like to keep the stock fuel system if I can, I guess I'll (we'll) just have to see what it can do.

o rly

and it runs fine? not overwhelmed?

I'm pleasantly surprised

Dunno what you mean by overwhelmed. i hit like 70% duty cycle at man-boost. The system is definitely at it's limits but runs great.

fpr overhwelmed = can't hold back the pressure = u run rich

no, never happened. afr is souper noice.

I think the problem is not the overwhelming aspect - It's the fact that it will be overwhelmed or not overwhelmed, consistently. You can't tune with fluctuating fuel pressure. I'd rather have a consistent setup and the car remains tuned.

Guys- Talk me into ordering this Tial V-Band housing... Easy to work on, clean looking, no gaskets...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1342792624