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Old 10-14-2013, 12:24 PM   #221
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Too bad, one day late for this:

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Old 10-14-2013, 01:16 PM   #222
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Ohhh great.

Good thing is, I think I know someone with one of those. So if we did nick the pickup tube, how "bad" is it?
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:28 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds1 View Post
Ohhh great.

Good thing is, I think I know someone with one of those. So if we did nick the pickup tube, how "bad" is it?
If it went through, its pull the engine to replace it bad. With how soft the pickup tube is odds are if you nicked it its through.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:30 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds1 View Post
Ohhh great.

Good thing is, I think I know someone with one of those. So if we did nick the pickup tube, how "bad" is it?
You need to pull the pan to replace the pickup tube, you need to pull the engine in order to pull the pan.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:31 PM   #225
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I just find it difficult to see how you bent a half inch drill.
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:01 PM   #226
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Yeah. That sucks. It was a used bit to begin with, and I'm sure it was Chinese, but that drill we were using has some crazy torque. Not really sure how we did it either.

I can't get to work on the car today because I have to work late. I'll find out tomorrow. Just to clarify, you're saying that if the drill penetrated the pan ANY more that it takes just to cut through the pan, then it damaged the pickup tube? Because if thats the case then its definitely damaged, hahaha.
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:06 PM   #227
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:15 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds1 View Post
Yeah. That sucks. It was a used bit to begin with, and I'm sure it was Chinese, but that drill we were using has some crazy torque. Not really sure how we did it either.

I can't get to work on the car today because I have to work late. I'll find out tomorrow. Just to clarify, you're saying that if the drill penetrated the pan ANY more that it takes just to cut through the pan, then it damaged the pickup tube? Because if thats the case then its definitely damaged, hahaha.
The pickup tube is about 1.25" from the corner of the pan so... See pic above that Tom posted. Looking at that drill it looks like u went ~1.5" or so then hit the pickup tube and wedged the drill and bent it. After working in a shop for 7 years my experience has been that that is the common way of bending a drill. That is my 2c.
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:54 AM   #229
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Alrighty. Sounds like you're probably right, I'll try and scope it first though. I'm assuming the fix is to just get a new pan, since that pickup is machined into it?
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:24 AM   #230
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The pickup is separate. Not part of the pan.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:28 PM   #231
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One hint on your MTX-L install... Don't connect the dimming wire from the gauge to an actual dimmer circuit. For the MTX gauges, you instead connect it to a wire which is powered when the parking lights (or head lights) are on. Those gauges only have two brightness settings, so a variable voltage input causes problems. This is covered in the install document, if you take a closer look.

Good luck
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #232
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Wondering here where do u find the "parking lights" wire?
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:13 PM   #233
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I am on vacation, so can't take a look at the car right now. It will be under the left side of the dash though.

I originally wired me MTX gauge to the dimmer switch and found out that I should read instructions more often :-)

Take a look at the wiring diagram for your car and find the color of code for a wire which is energized by the headlight switch. Then take a look under the dash. Wasn't too difficult to find a wire that worked correctly.
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:19 AM   #234
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Okay, back at it again today (finally). No pic updates today because I don't have the time at the moment. This MTX-L is starting to get to me. Not so much the gauge, but the difference in information I've been able to find about the install. Its such an important item I really want to get it right the first time.

I've searched many threads but could not find the exact details for the MTX-L with a MS3X in a 1.6. Here is what I have so far:

Red wire: spliced with radio 12V power.
Black wire: To same ground as ECU... which is the rear of the block on passenger's side, correct?
Yellow wire: To the pink wire coming from the MS3X harness, which is in the center "unused" part of the harness coming from the MS3X. Correct?
White wire: Not bothering with dimmer now, so leaving it alone. Do I have to ground it or just wrap with electrical tape and leave it?
Brown wire: Same as white wire.

I also heard you could cut the the old O2 sensor wire and splice the yellow signal wire into there, but now I'm not sure because there is a dedicated wire on that "unused" part of the harness. I already disconnected my O2 sensor so that would be easy if possible (obviously I don't need the original O2 sensor for anything else, right?).

I'm usually good with wiring, just the difference in applications from car to car and WB to WB has gotten me confused and I need to clarify. Thanks!
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:32 AM   #235
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What's confusing? You have power/ground/signal. Power goes to power. Ground goes to signal ground. Signal goes to MS o2 input.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:05 AM   #236
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Just read the installation PDF on the Innovate site, that's the only authoritative source. I'm 99% sure it says to ground the dimmer wire if you're not using it.

And make sure you fuse power to the thing, I think it recommends a 3A fuse but double-check the manual.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:47 AM
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:10 AM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRT_Fun View Post
What's confusing? You have power/ground/signal. Power goes to power. Ground goes to signal ground. Signal goes to MS o2 input.
Because this is what everyone usually says. I understand that part, I asked specifically about a few things (wire on MS, place to ground, etc) just to clarify. Any help their is appreciated.

And yes, its going to the radio power so it is fused with the radio, which I believe is okay from what I have seen on other posts (feel free to correct me too).
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:15 AM   #238
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I believe you don't need more than a 3amp fuse if it were fused separately, so the radio fuse should be fine.

The o2 sensor provides a signal, so you want to use the signal ground from the MS so that it grounds through the MS. I don't know what or who built your MS, but on mine there is just one (b/w) wire that I have my signals grounds going to.

Same goes for the signal wire, I don't know anything about your MS, but there should be a labeled pink o2 wire that you attach the signal from the o2 sensor to.
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:25 AM   #239
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Hahahahahahahahaha I love that this thread is now called "Ds1 has a horrible idea"

I have an MS3X (mentioned earlier) built by Brain. Yes I see the pink wire at the harness, (but it is not labeled). So that is definitely where to put the signal; not directly into the OEM O2 circuit. Got it.

I know there is controversy regarding the ground point. I have enough wire to go to the block or the MS, so it doesn't matter to me. I'm not sure about the B/W wire you are speaking of... is it in the center "unused/auxiliary" harness?
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:27 PM   #240
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Ask brain about the signal ground and o2.

There is no controversy regarding ground points for sensors, you ground them through the MS. Period. Well, unless you enjoy inaccurate sensors. Up to you.
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