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Old 02-04-2016, 06:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb View Post
Yeah, I pieced everything together for under $2000 as well. It's once you start installing things that you realize what you need or what doesn't quite work. I would love to see someone do it reliably under 2k. I follow Greg as well and I have my doubts that he will be able to keep within his budget on B&B, unless free stuff is given.
He just stated in his last vid(intercooler piping) that he would be going slightly over, I think due to the TacoTaco 1.6's drying up, and now needing custom manifold+downpipe. He has stated before that he "isn't going to go all Mighty Car Mods on you guys and start using free stuff".
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There was less than 2K in my original turbo kit. $1700 with all new stuff, DIYPNP and rx8 injectors. Being able to weld makes a massive difference. I bought a used FM1 and ebay flywheel, that put me at 2K. My ****'s reliable as **** and pretty on the limit of stock rods.

Can be done. Read my thread.
Will do, always down for some more reading. Would you say that the cost of learning to weld(welder, mask, materials, stuff messed up on first tries) outweighs the cost of finding parts to work for you/having someone that knows what the **** they are doing do it for you?
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:33 PM   #22
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Yeah, for sure. Mig welding is easy, what you see in my thread is my first real shot at it.

If you take it to a shop to have it done the bill will be more than a good welder. Abe charges $750 for a manifold and downpipe? That's more than double what I have in my welder/tank setup.

Either that or you'll get a real hack job for cheap, wish you'd done it yourself.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:05 PM   #23
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Hmmmm... I do think I made a mistake, input appreciated.

I had thought I purchased a used T25... showed up today, and it looked... off. Downpipe flange was weird, and to my inexperienced eyes the flange looked like a T3?

Some research later, I think I have an RB20? Can't really find good info on it, some sources say its laggy as hell, others say its quick spooling, some say don't take it over 12PSI or the adhesives holding the turbines melt and it explodes??

Should I:
1. Return and find an actual T25
2. Keep and make it work?

Leaning towards #1 unless someone pipes up and says this turbo is superior in some way that greatly benefits me.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:18 PM   #24
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I think you should make the MSM turbo work & return that one

For some reason I get the sense that you're already going to be over budget trying to get what you want finding misc items. Is this your first turbo anything build?

Imo, slow down. Keep researching and saving money. Do it right the first time after you have everything lined up perfect.

Check out this for sale ad - https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...004-msm-87338/

Maybe see what he'd take for everything minus the turbo since you have a 'cleaner' looking unit

Posted today:
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Originally Posted by fourwhls View Post
I'm ready to get these parts out of my garage.

New price and deal of the year. $600
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:26 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
I think you should make the MSM turbo work & return that one

For some reason I get the sense that you're already going to be over budget trying to get what you want finding misc items. Is this your first turbo anything build?

Imo, slow down. Keep researching and saving money. Do it right the first time after you have everything lined up perfect.

Check out this for sale ad - https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...004-msm-87338/

Maybe see what he'd take for everything minus the turbo since you have a 'cleaner' looking unit

Posted today:
Yup, first turbo anything.
I've already seen that one... I didn't like the condition of it. Besides, I already have an intercooler/pipeing/BOV ect. Going with the more restrictive(and in this case heavily used) MSM intercooler setup doesn't make any sense.
I'll take it from the MSM comment that the turbo I now have on my hands isn't worth it in any way.
I am trying to slow down... its not working. I want boost, dammit!
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:34 PM   #26
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You can't even tune yet, and the 'condition' is fine. It came from a car that's been on the road, spruce it up yourself. When you get into the nitty gritty of things (engine builds/turbo systems) you tend to care less of looks as long as it works. Restrictive? That intercooler is great for the IHI. I'm too lazy to find you the 'good' ebay intercooler if you wanted an upgrade.

Photos of your intercooler/pipes/bov ? If it's some ebay chrome piping cx racing look-a-like rig, prepare to be shunned

Take a photo of the insides of the intercooler too. Lets see what density you're working with... or if it's a hot dog in a hallway like your mom
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:00 PM   #27
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Tuneing? Hmm, that reminds me, Rev still has my MS2 and I haven't heard from him. Need to follow up with him...

No, as in, that car had some pretty rusty/salted/abused bits, and I didn't trust the plumbing to not be corroded/salted as well.
Everything I had read about the MSM's intercooler setup was that it was restrictive, tiny and poor flowing, to the point the FM offered an upgrade package for it.
Intercooler piping is a "universal" kit... while not marked from CX, I suspect it is one of theirs. Its super stealth black, with "JDM" inked onto the silicone joints for that extra JDM street cred, screw clamps included. All 2.5in, yeah, fitting that with PS/AC is going to be fuuuuunn!
BOV is an SQV BOV, HKS ripoff I do think? Ebay of course. Still in transit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SQV-Blow-Off...xWZpGn&vxp=mtr

And it simply doesn't make sense for me to buy a complete MSM kit at this point, as I already have an MSM heart, with other transplanted bits. It doesn't make sense to sell off the new parts, to buy a used kit, not to mention that I'd lose a fair amount(read, pretty much all) in trying to do so, because Ebay and used.
Although I remember seeing the thread where someone got a "bad" intercooler, I can't seem to find it anymore... regardless, I remember comparing and thinking mine was fine. Bar and plate.
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:07 AM   #28
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need some more pics of the turbo to really identify it but that exhaust side looks like an RB20 unit.
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:34 AM   #29
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Intercooler isn't 'bad', at least it's not just straight lines and rectangles
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:38 PM   #30
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Hmm, you thought I was gone? Given up, and out of your hair? Well HA! Still here. I was just waiting on a few parts to continue forward.
After much debate back and forth, sticking with the MSM setup.
I just got my MS2 back from Rev(thanks Rev!). I can run emissions on my vehicle anytime in April, then rip out(gently, as I'll need it in 11months) the stock ECU and start pestering everyone with MS setup and tuning questions.

I'm most likely just going to go to a tuner/dyno once all the turbo bits are on. I'm to impatient and frankly don't trust myself to tune safely once real power can be made. I'll rough tune it while turbo bits(interfooler, injectors, IAT ect) are being installed, then tell it to dump assloads of fuel for one drive to a tuner once the snail is on.
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:46 PM   #31
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You do realize to get a proper tune you will be paying $100-175 an hour for dyno time. Expect 3-6 hours of being on the dyno for it to be done properly.
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:00 AM   #32
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Yes, I realise that paying for a tune will be at a premium, but I would rather pay in this case for peace of mind.
I would have had to buy some dyno time regardless to tune for boost later on, even if I was tuning myself. I realise that dyno time is cheaper then dyno time+tuner, but so be it.

I've also "discarded" the initial budget of $2K, perhaps I'll call it $2K in "parts". I realized I really wanted a few extra things that would put me above that. I still plan to stick as close to it as possible, i.e, I'm not expanding the budget by another 2-3K.
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:00 AM   #33
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Bro, expect to spend 4k minimum. Especially if you are paying for tune.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:55 PM   #34
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Lol, well that was short lived.
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:26 AM   #35
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What was short lived?
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Old 03-13-2016, 03:36 AM   #36
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It's pretty amazing how quickly all the stuff that wasn't on a starting parts list adds up. More gaskets, more hoses, more wiring, more bracketry, more silicone hose elbows and adapters, more clamps, more fasteners, more fluids, more tools... You really can't make a list add up to some number and pat yourself on the back.

As always, if you're boosting your daily, remember to put bus fare into your budget!
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:33 PM   #37
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The strict budget you were going to keep was short lived.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:41 PM   #38
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And emissions have been done, so I now have 11 months to get some boost going.
Prepare for noobness.

First questions. For the MS install, can I leave all sensors stock initially? I.e, the MAF and narrowband? The MS instructions on DIY say you can, however other sources seem to say that you need to install an IAT immediately, and then of course a wideband to properly tune.
How exactly is the IAT plugged into the system? On the NA's, they have the one plug you wire into, however on the NB's its split into two different plugs, one on each side of the intake 'box'. I can't find a source saying which of these wires/plugs I tap into for the IAT wiring.
For the wideband, again, the NA's had only one wire running off the narrowband into the harness, making it easy to splice into, while the NB's have four wires coming off of it. Which do I tap into for the new wideband?
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:51 PM   #39
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While possible running MAF, not advised to begin with as MAP is king in this world.

No reason to 'not' do the IAT, make a bung and get to work since that'll be your setup anyways fwiw

With a MTX-L WB I believe you can use it to send out a narrowband signal as well as display the full range of WB. Amazon usually has some good prices for the MTX-L gauges.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:53 PM   #40
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No megasquirt without wideband, noob.

The stock miata sensors might have AIT in there somewhere, it's part of the air vane on my 1.6. I ran like that for a week, won't be the end of the world. You aren't me though, and can't figure this out on your own. For you, do it right to start.

IAT goes on the passengers side, outside the engine bay, either in the intercooler endtak or the plumbing directly after. I don't know NB, but you can figure it out with the googles or a beeping multi meter.

Don't wire the wideband to the stock narrowband ****. Run it inside the car to DB port like a good boy.
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