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Old 03-21-2016, 04:06 PM   #41
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I'll have the IAT in for sure when I run my intercooler piping, but currently its still the stock crossover tube. I'd rather not drill/install twice if I didn't have to. I'll leave it stock then for 1-2 weeks till I get interfooled.

Why should I not run the WB to the stock wiring(I have an AEM)? Since the MS is plugged directly into the stock harness, shouldn't it be able to read WB signals coming though the stock harness?
I have a nice yellow wire running out of the MS that the PO told me was for the WB, do I just hook that up to the white(analog output) wire from the AEM? So that data goes sensor-WB-MS? Am I thinking though that correctly?
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:22 PM   #42
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I'll have the IAT in for sure when I run my intercooler piping, but currently its still the stock crossover tube. I'd rather not drill/install twice if I didn't have to. I'll leave it stock then for 1-2 weeks till I get interfooled.

Why should I not run the WB to the stock wiring(I have an AEM)? Since the MS is plugged directly into the stock harness, shouldn't it be able to read WB signals coming though the stock harness?
I have a nice yellow wire running out of the MS that the PO told me was for the WB, do I just hook that up to the white(analog output) wire from the AEM? So that data goes sensor-WB-MS? Am I thinking though that correctly?
Shove the IAT somewhere in the air box and call it a day.

As for the wideband you don't want to wire it into the stock harness. You want to screw in the wideband O2 sensor into the bung. Then run the wire through the trans tunnel hole up into the cabin. For power and ground tap into the power and ground wires that the MS uses. Wire the white wire into the wife the PO has left out for the wideband.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:39 PM   #43
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Alrighty, that works
I was going to run the WB wiring up into the engine bay, then over to the rubber grommet(near the brake fluid reservoir) with the rest of the wiring. Saves me from having to remove the armrests/fake tombstone, and gets the wiring closer to where it needs to be anyway. Unless you feel there is an issue with that route? Its quite close to the stock wiring route.

So how exactly do I wire in the IAT then? The NA's are easy, its one plug that comes out and you splice the two wires into that, but the NB's have a different setup/pigtail that I can't find directions for, DIYAuto or the rest of the internet.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:46 PM   #44
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I went back and reread your first post. You have a 2000 correct? In that case you just use the stock iat sensor. Whoever made your ms should have just wired the correct wire from the stock harness to the iat input on the ms.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:01 PM   #45
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Yes, its a 2000. Same as a 1999, but diffrent from all the others IIRC.
Rev built and refurbished it, so I think its safe to assume that he did it correctly
I didn't even know the 2000 had a built in AIT... so how would I reroute that when its time for intercooler piping then? Is it the smaller side of the airbox pigtail, as circled in this older pic?
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:09 PM   #46
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MS installed.

Vacuum line run from the spare port on the intake manifold, AEM WB power stolen from the red/black wires running off of the MS, and everything ziptied into place.
I left the stock ECU in place, the MS isn't going in its place anyway, so no need to deal with the hassle of taking it out.
Turning the key to the accessory position, I don't think the WB lit up, but as I was also checking on other things I could be wrong on that.
For kicks and giggles, I tried to start it, and it coughed twice, then caught for a second, then died. Going to go grab the laptop and plug her in now to check out the map that Rev set up, but I'm guessing I need to add fuel or something to the table?
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:15 PM   #47
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Probably something, for sure.
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:49 PM   #48
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Alright, some real details.
She cranks, but tries to die. If I give her gas, she keeps going, but it seems like anything lower then 2K RPM starts making her cough.
Getting an accessory belt squeal that I didn't have before. Or rather, didn't normally have on startup. I would sometimes get it if I almost stalled right after starting(like when backing out of parking spaces), but now it happens right at start. Coincidence?
AEM is not turning on. It should be lighting up as soon as I turn the key to the "accessory" position, correct?
MS seems to be getting a signal from it, as the gauge cluster has the AFR gauge, and has it at 14.7, but nothing from the physical gauge.
How do I check my current map on MS? I assumed that once its loaded on the MS, that it would open right up, but I still had to go create a new project file and such. Does that mean that there is NOT a basemap loaded, and that I need to load one yesterday??? I'm following the steps that Greg put forth in his Megasquirt video btw.

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Old 03-30-2016, 07:09 PM   #49
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Huh. Few more issues. I downloaded a "startup" map off of DIY, however it only gave me error codes, and the MS stopped connecting unless I opened a new file. Unsure why, I would plug everything in, turn the key, but it still remained in "offline" mode. Restarting while keeping everything plugged in didn't help ether.

For this week, I put the stock O2 sensor back in, and replugged up the OEM ECU, as I still gotta daily for the rest of the week. Fired right up, no problem. Takes about 20min to swap between the two, if I take my time.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:14 PM   #50
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You cannot draw a wideband power from the mega squirt. It does not have enough juice. Read the damn instructions. Grrrr.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:20 PM   #51
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You cannot draw a wideband power from the mega squirt. It does not have enough juice. Read the damn instructions. Grrrr.
I have been using the same power wire for my MS and wideband for the past 8 years or so.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:49 PM   #52
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Quote:
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I have been using the same power wire for my MS and wideband for the past 8 years or so.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:52 PM   #53
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:04 PM   #54
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Umm the very reason I did that was because Shuiend told that other kid to here: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...g-88167/page2/
and it seemed to work for him.
Otherwise I would have hacked into the ignition wires, but they are a tad harder(and more risky imo)to locate then the ECU wires.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:32 PM   #55
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I thought it was grounds only....

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Old 03-31-2016, 09:08 AM   #56
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I thought it was grounds only....
Yeah, wideband heaters draw a fair amount of juice.
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:27 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Yeah, wideband heaters draw a fair amount of juice.
oh yeah, that 1A draw!!!! WATCH OUT!!!!


No, you can't source power for a WB powered THROUGH the MS; the regulator circuits can't handle it (D10 is only rated for 1A). But you shouldn't be doing it that way anyway.

You can source from the same power source AS the MS. And ideally you'll put it on its own 5A fuse.
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:50 PM   #58
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That's what I meant.
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:52 AM   #59
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Well to avoid any issues from using the same power lines as the MS, I'll rewire into the ignition line then. See if that gets me anywhere, because in current configuration its not working(yes the lines are properly connected, I even got all fancy and soldered them).

Anyone want to take guesses on the non-existent idle? Need a setting adjusted in MS itself, or would not having WB input be the cause?
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Old 04-01-2016, 07:07 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingman703 View Post
Well to avoid any issues from using the same power lines as the MS, I'll rewire into the ignition line then. See if that gets me anywhere, because in current configuration its not working(yes the lines are properly connected, I even got all fancy and soldered them).

Anyone want to take guesses on the non-existent idle? Need a setting adjusted in MS itself, or would not having WB input be the cause?
You need to tune the MS. It has nothing to do with the WB input.
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