Braineack

iTrader: (62)

ew, do you have your WBo2 controller inside the engine bay?

Wingman703

But if the MS was not getting an input from the WB, would that not cause issues? Or does the MS blindly follow the maps, regardless of the WB?
WB controller? The MS? No, that's ziptied to my steering column. Or do you mean the little plug thingies in the WB line? Because, yes, that's located roughly under my brake booster/ fluid reservoir(I ran all electrical/vacuum lines though the rubber grommet over in that area).

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

It will cause zero issues not having a wideband. You won't be able to see what AFR's you are idling at, but the Ms will use whatever values you have in your VE table at idle. My wideband died a day before I drove to PA in 2010 for the MS Megameet. I had just gotten my MS3 converted to a full standalone and still had to work on tuning my idle. At the megameet James one of the MS devs help me tune idle settings without the wideband working.

Which wideband do you have? the LC1/LC2 have a black square box that the wideband plugs into and then has a cord that runs to the MS. The AEM EUGO and MXT-L just have the gauge and the controller is built into that. If you have and LC1/LC2 you want the black box thing in the cabin away from heat.

Wingman703

Oh, I have the AEM. No black box thingy.

Very well then, what settings should I attack to get some idle going? Would it be just messing with the spark/fuel maps, or a separate setting/map altogether?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

It is not the spark or fuel you need to mess with right now. I think you have an MS2, but I am honestly not certain. In TS there you be a Startup/Idle box in the top. It will have a dropdown menu with some of the choices being idle control and such. You need to looking in there. I would recommend starting with open-loop idle control. There are several threads on mt about tuning idle. You will need to search for them.

Wingman703

Ah, here is one of the errors I was getting last week. Something to be concerned about? Happens when trying to load new tunes.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

click yes.

Wingman703

Am I signing away my firstborn and a million dollars?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you're accepting that there are 20 differences between 3.2.1 and 3.4.0

Wingman703

That's an answer I can live with then.

Rewired the WB into the ignition wires. It now works, the entire gauge pod now has power(running the light for the boost gauge off the same wiring). Makes me wonder if there is a broken connection somewhere in the MS's wiring harness, or if I somehow managed to pull from the wrong wires? Anyhow that's working. One issue down, many more to go I'm sure.

Wingman703

Two more sets of errors. For the record, I currently have the basemap for a 2000(which mine is) from DIYAuto loaded: MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

Apologies in advance for the picture quality. The laptop decided that screencaps were sooooo over rated and too high quality. If they are to bad to make use of, please let me know and I'll work out another setup.

This one I get right away when burning the tune to the controller:

"You have a settings error! on *tune name*
This means there are conflicting settings and MegaSquirt does not know how to handle them. The following error was reported by the MegaSquirt: Conflict between spare output ports and spare outputs.
Unless directed in the above message, you do not need to reload firmware to fix this problem. To resolve this you need to correct this error in your settings then power cycle the MegaSquirt."

Great, sounds easy enough, what settings do I attack? I did some googling on the matter and came up with "you will need to turn the Injection LED, Accel LED and Warm up LED outputs off", but I can't seem to find the location of them in TS. EDIT: Found them. Corrected them. MS now reconnects and functions properly.

Back to just working on that idle. I can still crank it, but then it dies immediately unless I give it some gas. One thing I did note is that my AFR's stay at 10:1... that doesn't seem right to me, being VERY rich? Holding it at ~1400RPM, I would have figured it would be closer to 14:something to 13:1? The AFR table isn't set anywhere near that rich..

Wingman703

Yeah, something is amiss about the fueling/AFR tables.
My wideband tells me I'm hitting 10:1 or lower AFR, I can smell unburnt fuel being dumped out the pipe, and its still very rough after playing around with idle cranking duty and idle control.
Is there a setup setting or injector setting I missed due to noobishness?

Rasta420

this is a great video series explaining almost all the settings in MS. It is admittedly a little slow and boring but I feel will get you where need to be in a short amount of time.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...&nohtml5=False

Wingman703

Grus, I need your help. I've spend the last month(on and off, not continuous) trying to figure this out.
Symptoms:
I get 3-4 cranks, then car fires up, then dies. If I give it gas right as it fires, it keeps going, but is shuttery, unstable, and generally sounds bad. I had smoke dumping out of the tailpipe at one point, and I get the strong smell of fuel.
The tune file is the DIYAuto tune, mostly untouched, however it seemed like it was setup for an EU NB as the Req fuel cylinder size was set to 1600cc, and I also combed though and eliminated/modified anything that gave me error messages upon connection(mostly just swapping two ports IIRC).
Reverting to stock ECU has the car firing up normally, it doesn't seem crank any more then usual.
I have attached the tune file for your viewing pleasure. ANY help is greatly appreciated(even if its just shuiend telling me XYZ is fucked and I'm a dumbass noob for not realizing it).

x_25

I just got my MS3x in on my 1990 and I am having exactly the same problem. Runs perfect on the stock ecu, using the DIYautotune 1990-93 base map with needed changes for MS3x and it starts but runs super, super rich.

Hoping for nothing to be wrong and I am in the dumbass noob category.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Your fuel table is not tuned and you're a dumbass noob thinking you can just load a basemap VE table with no changes and expect it to work. Tune the fuel table, or at least attempt to, before you cry and ask for help. Basemaps are good for trigger settings, that's about it. They might not even be good for that. Any particular reason you're running batch untimed injection?

The AFR table does nothing. It is used for EGO control and auto-tuning, two things you aren't using directly after starting. You need to adjust the VE table and starting enrichments to match the afr table, otherwise it will just keep dumping so much fuel you peg out max rich on your gauge.

Read the manual, L2T, noob.

x_25

I would not have thought the base map would be thaaaaaat rich though. My friend's Link had a base map that idled right around 13.7:1 right out of the box. If that's the case though, time to just start adjusting the whole VE table until it is lean enough to actually run...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Serious advice to both, you and OP:

TUNE YOUR CAR

x_25

That's the plan, just wanted to make sure the base maps were potentially that far off and it wasn't a missed setting or something from noobing about.

Wingman703

Huh. I thought the base maps were supposed to be "enough to get it running", if only roughly.
That was what the basemap came set to.