FE3 Swap
08-12-2010, 01:14 PM
#81
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 11368 miles from where i would like to be
Posts: 269
Total Cats: 92
A few comments :
The 6 speed is a pretty good strong box. s15 silvias with boost and 280ps @ crank come with this box stock and don't seem to give excess trouble.
I dislike your mounts as much as I dislike Rob's mounts, you are canterlevering against the box (as is he!). The engine should sit neutrally on it's mounts. There are two ways to do it properly : move the motor back till it balances on the stock points (i'd take this) or move the points forward such that it is balanced where it sits. To not do this puts all of those bolts under constant stress and rather than doing their jobs holding things together, they're holding the weight of the things they're holding together aswell.
As for clearance, you say you have custom mounts, but you don't, you have custom mount brackets on top of stock, *****, i-broke-3-with-80hp mounts. they compress and extend and move in all directions, by design. If you replace them with something stiffer, like urethane substitutes or a different design then you'll be golden. Otherwise 3mm closes up fast on stock mounts.
How many of the bolts holding your box and block together are through OEM holes in both parts? I assume you only have 2 of the top large bolts in place? And I hope, dear god I hope, that you have two large ones on the wings too? I assume that you do not have the box to block braces in place? Did you ever see a bell housing get torn apart by torque/clutch drops? not pretty...
Lastly, personally, I would ditch the CAS or re-engineer a compact CAS with a single blip. A 36-1 on the crank is the best signal you can feed an ecu, pretty much. Much more compact firewall wise, high enough performance for 20+psi/9krpm/500hp, accurate as can be for angle, just win win win, really.
Sweet swap, though. Box is a good choice. Clearance will become obvious or not. Weight dist and stresses in box/block is/are your choice. I hope the box to block mounting is good, I'm sure you're happy with it :-)
Fred.
The 6 speed is a pretty good strong box. s15 silvias with boost and 280ps @ crank come with this box stock and don't seem to give excess trouble.
I dislike your mounts as much as I dislike Rob's mounts, you are canterlevering against the box (as is he!). The engine should sit neutrally on it's mounts. There are two ways to do it properly : move the motor back till it balances on the stock points (i'd take this) or move the points forward such that it is balanced where it sits. To not do this puts all of those bolts under constant stress and rather than doing their jobs holding things together, they're holding the weight of the things they're holding together aswell.
As for clearance, you say you have custom mounts, but you don't, you have custom mount brackets on top of stock, *****, i-broke-3-with-80hp mounts. they compress and extend and move in all directions, by design. If you replace them with something stiffer, like urethane substitutes or a different design then you'll be golden. Otherwise 3mm closes up fast on stock mounts.
How many of the bolts holding your box and block together are through OEM holes in both parts? I assume you only have 2 of the top large bolts in place? And I hope, dear god I hope, that you have two large ones on the wings too? I assume that you do not have the box to block braces in place? Did you ever see a bell housing get torn apart by torque/clutch drops? not pretty...
Lastly, personally, I would ditch the CAS or re-engineer a compact CAS with a single blip. A 36-1 on the crank is the best signal you can feed an ecu, pretty much. Much more compact firewall wise, high enough performance for 20+psi/9krpm/500hp, accurate as can be for angle, just win win win, really.
Sweet swap, though. Box is a good choice. Clearance will become obvious or not. Weight dist and stresses in box/block is/are your choice. I hope the box to block mounting is good, I'm sure you're happy with it :-)
Fred.
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08-14-2010, 02:59 PM
#82
Senior Member
Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Edmonton Ab, Canada
Posts: 1,202
Total Cats: 21
A few comments :
The 6 speed is a pretty good strong box. s15 silvias with boost and 280ps @ crank come with this box stock and don't seem to give excess trouble.
I dislike your mounts as much as I dislike Rob's mounts, you are canterlevering against the box (as is he!). The engine should sit neutrally on it's mounts. There are two ways to do it properly : move the motor back till it balances on the stock points (i'd take this) or move the points forward such that it is balanced where it sits. To not do this puts all of those bolts under constant stress and rather than doing their jobs holding things together, they're holding the weight of the things they're holding together aswell.
As for clearance, you say you have custom mounts, but you don't, you have custom mount brackets on top of stock, *****, i-broke-3-with-80hp mounts. they compress and extend and move in all directions, by design. If you replace them with something stiffer, like urethane substitutes or a different design then you'll be golden. Otherwise 3mm closes up fast on stock mounts.
How many of the bolts holding your box and block together are through OEM holes in both parts? I assume you only have 2 of the top large bolts in place? And I hope, dear god I hope, that you have two large ones on the wings too? I assume that you do not have the box to block braces in place? Did you ever see a bell housing get torn apart by torque/clutch drops? not pretty...
Lastly, personally, I would ditch the CAS or re-engineer a compact CAS with a single blip. A 36-1 on the crank is the best signal you can feed an ecu, pretty much. Much more compact firewall wise, high enough performance for 20+psi/9krpm/500hp, accurate as can be for angle, just win win win, really.
Sweet swap, though. Box is a good choice. Clearance will become obvious or not. Weight dist and stresses in box/block is/are your choice. I hope the box to block mounting is good, I'm sure you're happy with it :-)
Fred.
The 6 speed is a pretty good strong box. s15 silvias with boost and 280ps @ crank come with this box stock and don't seem to give excess trouble.
I dislike your mounts as much as I dislike Rob's mounts, you are canterlevering against the box (as is he!). The engine should sit neutrally on it's mounts. There are two ways to do it properly : move the motor back till it balances on the stock points (i'd take this) or move the points forward such that it is balanced where it sits. To not do this puts all of those bolts under constant stress and rather than doing their jobs holding things together, they're holding the weight of the things they're holding together aswell.
As for clearance, you say you have custom mounts, but you don't, you have custom mount brackets on top of stock, *****, i-broke-3-with-80hp mounts. they compress and extend and move in all directions, by design. If you replace them with something stiffer, like urethane substitutes or a different design then you'll be golden. Otherwise 3mm closes up fast on stock mounts.
How many of the bolts holding your box and block together are through OEM holes in both parts? I assume you only have 2 of the top large bolts in place? And I hope, dear god I hope, that you have two large ones on the wings too? I assume that you do not have the box to block braces in place? Did you ever see a bell housing get torn apart by torque/clutch drops? not pretty...
Lastly, personally, I would ditch the CAS or re-engineer a compact CAS with a single blip. A 36-1 on the crank is the best signal you can feed an ecu, pretty much. Much more compact firewall wise, high enough performance for 20+psi/9krpm/500hp, accurate as can be for angle, just win win win, really.
Sweet swap, though. Box is a good choice. Clearance will become obvious or not. Weight dist and stresses in box/block is/are your choice. I hope the box to block mounting is good, I'm sure you're happy with it :-)
Fred.
Fred,
My mounts are urethane, as I've said before, they arent the stock rubber ones, so ya my motor movement with 300whp wasnt bad (downpipe clearance for my 3" dp was tight and I never had any banging issues), not to mention this et-up will make nearly half the amount of power/torque.
The motor cant move any further back as the CAS barely clears (aswell as the coolant reroute) and I'm not intereted in changing the ppf or driveshaft or machining the bellhosing ect. Its also not moving forward for the same reasons, it is where it is and I'll make the best of it. My concern is my oilpans lack of volume and how far it hangs below the subframe. If I could lower the engine more I would have proper mounts, that is the limiting factor here, not fore/aft placement but height and width (could get creative with the welder but its not necessary imo, atleast not yet)
As for the bolts to the motor-tranny, I have the two tops bolts and the two wing bolts in. The side block braces I was thinking about using and still may in the future is necessary.
I'm not running any boost therefore dont care about the crank trigger vs cas vs anything else.
The more ppl break the 6 speed the more I realize its just as big a piece of **** as the 5 speeds are, I won't bother using this transmission again.
Thanks for the interest.
Currently the itbs are done (just need to drill out the miata header) and I am awaiting some inspiration or motivation to fire it up, I've been busy with work/going back to school in a couple weeks again.
-Dean
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08-22-2010, 03:05 PM
#83
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Well everything is put together now and I've cranked her over to prime it (40psi oil pressure cranking) but I have no spark. Everything ignition related is from the last motor so it all should work fine, well minus the CAS.
So the troubleshooting begins.
So the troubleshooting begins.
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08-23-2010, 12:08 AM
#84
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It runs, vids are uploading right now.
First start, iphone video so not the best quality, kinda loud to so watch your volume settings hahaha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8z1x8Vy-hA
First start, iphone video so not the best quality, kinda loud to so watch your volume settings hahaha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8z1x8Vy-hA
Last edited by dc2696; 08-23-2010 at 02:03 AM.
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08-23-2010, 01:56 AM
#85
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 55
Total Cats: 0
I will forever hate you for buying the FE3 from Niel that I was planning to buy >.<
But I'm glad to see it's going to good use
On a side note, I pick up the built Escort GT on Thursday, are you going to be home on Monday night/tuesday day?
But I'm glad to see it's going to good use
On a side note, I pick up the built Escort GT on Thursday, are you going to be home on Monday night/tuesday day?
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08-23-2010, 02:02 AM
#87
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 55
Total Cats: 0
Haha yeah you did, **** didn't pan out it's all good though. Sorry, I meant Monday as in the 30th? I can snap pics of the car and post them for you too if you want. Been itching to see your track Miata for a while now
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10-11-2010, 02:16 PM
#91
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Well I havent touched it too much in the last month or so, been going thru basiclly a divorce with my gf of 5 years :S and starting school again.
The starter/flywheel combo isn't working properlly. The car grinds and the starter jams ect ect, not sure what the deal is there but I'm going to try a 626 starter inplace of the miata starter as the tooth count is different on them so maybe the miata starter doesnt jive with the 626 flywheel???
Still can't get the car to start on the Megasquirt which is the reason not much has changed lately, stock ecu it starts fine but can't drive it obviously, no vaf lol, just can't get the motor to fire properlly with my mspnp in. Might need a vacuum canister as I have zero vacuum during cranking, could be throwing the ms for a loop. Put the oem fuel pump back in as idle afr's were like 10:1 with the 255 walbro, actually the pump didnt change anything except its alot less noisey now, thats what i get for running a stock ecu with no airflow meter lol
I absolutely love how much oil pressure this motor has, hot idle is 30psi at 800rpm, by 3k its at 80psi
Sorry for the hiatus guys life has thrown some curve ***** and put cars on the back burner.
The starter/flywheel combo isn't working properlly. The car grinds and the starter jams ect ect, not sure what the deal is there but I'm going to try a 626 starter inplace of the miata starter as the tooth count is different on them so maybe the miata starter doesnt jive with the 626 flywheel???
Still can't get the car to start on the Megasquirt which is the reason not much has changed lately, stock ecu it starts fine but can't drive it obviously, no vaf lol, just can't get the motor to fire properlly with my mspnp in. Might need a vacuum canister as I have zero vacuum during cranking, could be throwing the ms for a loop. Put the oem fuel pump back in as idle afr's were like 10:1 with the 255 walbro, actually the pump didnt change anything except its alot less noisey now, thats what i get for running a stock ecu with no airflow meter lol
I absolutely love how much oil pressure this motor has, hot idle is 30psi at 800rpm, by 3k its at 80psi
Sorry for the hiatus guys life has thrown some curve ***** and put cars on the back burner.
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04-02-2011, 10:38 PM
#96
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Nothing new yet, finished school and started working so I just started to have money again. Picking up my ecu which was modded for vtps, going to get that figured out on my 10 days off now. Then it's off to my cage builder for a half cage.
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04-26-2011, 09:07 PM
#98
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 9
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I dont want to sound retarded "even though i am" but is there anyway i could get quick run down/some type of list of what will be need and what will have to be modified? I know your busy but when ever you get a chance and wouldn't mind it, i would really appreciate it. 
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04-26-2011, 10:00 PM
#99
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Join Date: May 2009
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either super tiny oil pan with ps, a bit bigger oil pan with manual rack, or spacers in the subframe, or hood scoop.
boat load of time, unless your dean, and money
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04-27-2011, 12:34 AM
#100
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 9
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custum oil pan from scratch or from a steel kia oil pan then modified, a modified oil pick up, modified/custom motor mounts, miata/fe3 intake manifold, or fe3 cut then custum lol, stock kia header for na, or 1.8 header redrilled and portmatched, fe3 dizzy gutted and miata cas installed into fe3 dizzy since its longer to cam. coolant reroute, tapping coolant holes in the back of head for sensors, splicing wires here and there for cas, coolant temp sensors, im running b2200 f2 flywheel/clutch/pp. f2 starter, b2200 bell housing on miata tranny.
either super tiny oil pan with ps, a bit bigger oil pan with manual rack, or spacers in the subframe, or hood scoop.
boat load of time, unless your dean, and money
either super tiny oil pan with ps, a bit bigger oil pan with manual rack, or spacers in the subframe, or hood scoop.
boat load of time, unless your dean, and money
,i want to get in a school for welding, once i learn i think it would help out alot with making alot of this c**p , and my uncle is very good with wiring so i think this might be possible
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