emilio700

iTrader: (3)

We should start a support group. 4cylFRkidz

yuba

BRZ reminds me a lot of how the S2000 felt to me, but man, the engine just is not there in terms of playfulness. I like the route you guys are taking.

yuba

MK60 ABS is in and I tested it at a Porsche Club event a couple weeks ago, everything worked out better than I'd hoped. I'm not usually one for buying track pictures anymore, but I figured since it looks nice again...




NASA is running AMP this weekend and I was hoping we'd run CCW config on Sunday, like normal, so I could take a shot at the Dave Schotz TT4 record, but it is not to be. I bought some RT660s since I figured they are probably the quickest points back tire in 245, and I have a new set of RC1 v1s on my other set of wheels. Going to test them back to back.

Both on 15x10 6UL, RT660 is slightly wider, 36.8lb for RC1 v1 / 40.2lb for RT660. Toyo RR is lighter than the RC1, but I haven't weighed it to have an actual number.





If the time delta isn't there over the RC1 I will add 100lb to the car and buy a set of R7s for AMP CCW in December. I've gone low 46 on RC1 v1 and the record is a 44.6 from the Schotz C4 Corvette on Hoosiers pre NASA section width rule.

icantlearn

Interested to hear your thoughts on the 660s.

yuba

You've run them, right? I'd ask for thoughts, but I want to go into it blind so please add them after this weekend.

Roda

Also interesting in hearing your thoughts on the various tires in comparison to Toyo RR. I just bought a fresh set because they've worked well and are long lasting for me, but I'm open to other choices...

Couldn't make this weekend work... our next is Inde with PCA in November.

yuba

I'd no questions asked run the Toyo RR over the RC1 if the contingency was better in my situation. I generally beat the local people who are running Hoosiers while I am on 100tw tires, but if someone like Erik shows up like at Chuckwalla earlier this year and murders me then I leave with no tires, versus two for two second places with the Maxxis.

The real answer is Hoosier, but it comes back to me preferring to spend the money on seat time in the form of cheaper tires that last longer over outright lap times. Compromises

icantlearn

I have no experience on 660s. I have heard a lot about them and they don't seem to be too durable, at least on the heavier cars. My experience is limited to 245 RC1 V1, RS4, AR1, and 225 R7s.

yuba

Long story short, took the AMP CW Miata lap record from Ulrik (295whp / 2395lb / 225 R7) with a 1:45.727 on first session RC1 v1s on Saturday. I forgot to put the SD card back into my Smartycam, so no video because I am an idiot. Damnit.

Ran the RT660s the last session of the day and went consistently half a second quicker than I'd done in the previous session on the Maxxis, so I figured I'd be able to see a low 45 today, but it was not to be, ended up going slower.

In more interesting news, NASA ST/TT national director showed up at the event today and openly said that people buying tires for competition should wait until mid-late next month for the 2021 rules to come out because there is going to be an adjustment in the Hoosier and Toyo/100tw+ balance.

doward

This makes me sad and happy.

On one hand I have a pile of yet to be burned 225/45/15 R7s and both GLTC and NASA ST are banning or nerfing their advantage.
On the other hand I never want to buy Hoosiers at retail again.

flier129

iTrader: (7)

Oh snap! Super curious about the adjustment how we'll never beat the current records ever again

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Still a lot of soft records that could be reset for the un-purple masses

yuba

In what is probably is a terrible mistake I ended up picking up another car this week. I knew it was a done deal going into last weekend, so I unloaded the car at Bondurant Looper, broke my old soft TT4 record with another soft record first session out, and put the car back onto the trailer. Track has a bunch of walls and eats cars. Cemented the AZ regional TT4 championship, not that it means much this year, but it is nice to get it after breaking cars cost me the championship the last two years when there was competition.



I feel like I've been through the whole arc with this car and now it is sorted, dead reliable, and looks pretty good again. Now comes the terrible part - selling it, which I am guessing will take a while. Wish I had more space to keep cars.

I flew to SF on Friday and drove home a 2015 BRZ with 34k miles on it. Has a TC Design cage, JRZ RS Pros, Harrop supercharger, Stoptech 355 / 345 brakes, OSGiken clutch and diff, fire system, etc. I intend on putting it on a diet and having a tune built so I can run it in TT4, currently makes like 360 wheel or something which I have zero intention of running.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Did you end up selling your miata? How do you like the BRZ?

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149422

curly

iTrader: (25)

I want to create an account over there, just to tell him the k24 doesn’t care he went to 10,000rpm. In fact, he didn’t even get to 10,000. 9820rpms is a rookie number!

awesome updates on the BRZ though. I enjoyed swapping a customer’s KRZ, and although he’s been fortunate enough to not break any throttle bodies. Capable car for sure once sorted.

yuba

Haha, I can believe it is fine but I was somewhat paranoid about it coming apart on track. I figured it made more sense to just swap it now, especially since the old motor consumed a fair bit of oil through the rings.

Should be back up and running this weekend

I like the car in a lot of ways - the things I don't like are:
That the stock transmission seems to suck at staying together, or I am just having bad luck with them. I'm adding a cooler.
Front tire wear isn't nearly on par with a Miata or S2000, which should be expected
I have terrible electronic powersteering cut issues that drive me insane. The only fix I've found so far is through DCE Electronics who seems to mostly do big money race **** and it is like $5k for a drop-in motor, controller, and wiring.

curly

iTrader: (25)

We’ve gone through 2 mid pipes and a header, finally fixed it (maybe) with stiffer exhaust and motor mounts, making it nearly unbearable on the street, but if it keeps him on track, who cares.

have you tried a new OE rack? Or is it the column on these, I forget.

all Hondas burn a bit of oil, shouldn’t smoke much, but they definitely consume it. Had a customer come in with a blown motor and about a half quart of oil in his s2000. He’d been tracking it for months without checking it.

yuba

What catback have you been using? It seems that the KPower header is super fragile and if you don't have the exhaust anchored well you're gonna break the thing. I've been hoping someone else brings out a header but it has yet to materialize.

It's the column. I've played around with it a bunch... remove front grip and it happens less frequently. Tried turning down the assist with a controller, swapped controllers to a newer one, swapped motors to a newer one, etc. If you connect to it with Techstream you can see it cuts off assist when it reads 7 or 8nm of torque (I can't remember which, it has been a while) and it'll come right back as soon as torque drops below that. Pretty frustrating but it is what it is.

The old motor pretty much always had wet pistons when looking in, though yeah, I agree, not a big deal with these things. We shall see, I've got it all prepped to drop in tomorrow and start up.