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The catch cans came with an O-Ring that seals the can, it measured 4mm thick. The cans themselves have a 26mm thick inside diameter and 36mm outside diameter. Note the scotch-brite pad that was broken up and shoved into the two-piece baffle. Airflow is largely unrestricted after filling that thing until I couldn't get anymore in there. I think the can could stand to have a piece of aluminum screwed in to divide the baffle and the out port.
Catch cans are plumbed up. Put a 5/8 hose barb on the VC and the PCV inline just before the IM giving the largest hose I could to reduce air velocity. Hotside is routed around the radiator along the IM back to the can.
Also, took the car out tonight and I think the new coils fixed the misfire. Lots of TORK at WG pressure (15psi?) but it's too cold for traction heh.
Guess I need to re-work my catch can mounting in the future. I just got a lead on a local 2002 parts car with a full NB2 ABS system, I'll be helping remove the parts so I can take the hardlines as well because I don't feel like bending all that. Need to figure out how the prop valve will work in the new layout though. This ought to be fun to wire in too Thinking I will put a toggle of some sort so I can switch on/off the ABS from inside the cabin and avoid pulling a fuse after reading codrus' setup here.
ABS car fell through, he decided to R&R the car instead. That's all good, I ordered a set of Maxxis VR-1 tires in 245/40r15 as I expect to burn through a lot of my RS-4s next spring - 30% off is too good a deal to pass up.
Sold the 99 head. With the funds from that I am paying for a Vibrant 12810 intercooler and purchased the 12# Street Twin flywheel from 949 along with the subframe gussets and the KMiata diff arm reinforcement. I will document the install when I get to it later in the spring. I would like to take a week off work and drive to FM in April or May to get tuned so I have a full summer of driving, here's hoping things play out that way.
Started the car and it started leaking oil, looks like it's coming out the VVT actuator gear. Need to replace the timing belt and seals and pull the engine to put the heavier flywheel in. Hopefully engine out by weekend..
Pulled the engine, swapped flywheels and cleaned up the threads on the coolant sensor of teflon tape while I was back there. Pulled the harmonic damper and dropped the engine back in. I finally managed to work myself up to pull the front bumper off and I am working on building some mounts for my Vibrant 12810 intercooler. Pictures to post later, in a rush now.
Finished fabbing up the mounting brackets and mounted the IC, positioning looks good. Currently has paint curing. Need to get shorter M6 panhead bolts, thinking about a second set of bolts as well.
Final brackets fabbed up - Thinking I will be fine with 2x grade 8 bolts m6 bolts as I will have the undertray under it as well as the aluminum ducting assuming it fits - If there are issues I can always drill the brackets/mounting points for additional bolts into the AC condenser brackets. I'm going to try to mount the intercooler tonight to start putting the front end back together tomorrow.
Thanks! It definitely beats my old CXRacing core, that's for sure.
Just finished putting on four new O-Rings from MiataRoadster for the VVT gear bolts which seems to have fixed the leak - TBelt is bone dry so I will not be replacing that at this time. FYI, you can get to all four bolts by spinning over the engine with the crank bolt. Seems the old O-rings were partially squished in a bad area, most likely the installer did not oil them before install. Everyone learns that when working with fuel injectors, that's like O-ring 101 there. Oh well, it's fixed now just gotta verify timing and plug in the VVT harness.
Drunk driver nailed my DD at 3am on 5/5, few days later I found out it was a total loss. Driver tried to drive off but he woke up my dad who went out and dragged him out of his car. He sized him up, figured he couldn't take him on and ran leaving his car and what we are sure is his prostitute in the passenger seat.
Insurance paid out pretty well and GAP gives me a grand on my next loan with the bank which I was going with already so.. yay? Lol. I am now the proud owner of a 2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI. It's a new experience owning a Diesel but man, that torque!
The TDI is definitely growing on me that's for sure. We'll meet up one of these days, more likely now with the Miata buttoned up and I can get out of the garage and make it to meets. I finished putting the undertray on and lowering the car to the ground last night and I am going out in a minute here to clean up the last of the mess and pull the car out. Dusty as hell from sitting all winter!
Verified base timing tonight and went out for a test drive. Test drive revealed some potential remaining leakage, I'm not sure if it was residue remaining behind the pulley that I didn't get or not yet as it was only 10-15 miles tops. Valve cover is still leaking on the hotside. At this point I am getting another VC gasket and thoroughly cleaning things and debating then RTVing the entire circumference...
Car runs smooooooooth though. That heavier twin disk Flywheel really picked things up, it was a good buy. Found and fixed a horrible rattle that was a clamp I left too close to the butterfly brace, oops. Also hand washed the car to get all the garage crap off of it.
Front leak decided to stop after a few heat cycles - I cleaned the front end up and don't see any new oil. Valve cover gasket was leaking the whole length of the hotside so I cleaned that up and will monitor. I plugged in the VVT sensor and let the car idle for 20 minutes last night, only stalled once when it went closed loop. Still no oil up front. What a relief...
Anyone know what might cause the car to stall when it goes closed loop if I have VVT connected? If it's already hot and I shutdown / plugin VVT and start back up it seems to run fine but cold starts inevitably will stall out when it gets hot..
So I took the Miata to the dyno but it had issues with fueling - the AFRs were tapering down as boost went up - Found the fuel pressure had crept down to 41psi base from the 60 I set when I installed it. I ended up replacing the pump and the filter per tuner recommendation and the car was running MUCH better after (albeit rich) and I set fuel back to 60psi. Took the car back to the tuner to tune on 91oct / e10 and an e85 flex tune. Tuner has just completed tuning and will email me some dyno plots later but the numbers (if correct) are VERY nice.
I have the dyno back from the tuners and WOW. HP stays nice and flat above 6500 where I normally see it fall flat. I see 17psi by 3250 now as well. 4th gear is tire-spin central. I am pretty sure there is still some room on the table for e85 and I am going to get a 93 tune down the line as well - I got 91 as I travel outside the e85 areas and have had cases where there's nothing but 91 for dozens of miles or more.
10-27-2018, 10:19 AM
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Thinking I will put a toggle of some sort so I can switch on/off the ABS from inside the cabin and avoid pulling a fuse after reading codrus' setup here.
