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The forever project

Old 10-05-2018, 06:49 AM
  #461  
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Catalytic converters effect o2 percentages. That's why oem's have sensors before and after cats to ensure they are working properly.
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Old 10-05-2018, 02:37 PM
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I just doublechecked, that was the flexjoint I was thinking about not the cat. Both widebands are pre-cat.
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Old 10-07-2018, 12:49 AM
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Gauge and LC-2 correlate to the same readings (12.2-12.4) while ECU was reporting the 11-11.2 while plugged into the LC-2. Scaling is setup correctly and it's set to Gasoline. Considering re-calibrating unless someone has a suggestion.
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Old 10-07-2018, 01:18 AM
  #464  
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How are you reading the LC-2 output?

Hydra built in wideband?
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Old 10-07-2018, 03:41 AM
  #465  
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I am changing the settings and viewing the afr via Logworks and LM Programmer as well as the gauge (set to 0v=7.4, 5v=22.4), the Hydra I am grabbing from it's own sensor and via the software dashboard on my laptop.
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Old 10-08-2018, 06:17 PM
  #466  
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Innovate thinks it might be the sensor, since my sensor calibrated but was not even so much as warm let alone hot to the touch.. Going to try re-calibrating tonight.
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:19 AM
  #467  
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I re-calibrated my Hydra L2H2 sensor and then did a re-calibration of the LC-2's 4.9 sensor and I am now within half a point of one another (eg; 12.5:1 on Hydra, 13:1 on LC-2) which is much better. I let the LC-2 sensor run through it's calibration, then I let it sit for a while to get things nice-n-hot and pulled the plug and re-calibrated while hot. I'm going to try re-calibrating the LC-2 again after work giving it further time to get heated up.

I also grabbed the 25-row Setrab to eyeball some locations for installation. There's not much room between the radiator and engine so vertical is out, wheel wells are dedicated to the brake ducts and I don't think above the IC in front of the Radiator would work due to space constraints. This leaves a horizontal install as my best option for an easy-install project. As you can see from the pictures there is good spacing between the undertray and the radiator shroud so I will lay the cooler flat, route the houses in/out on the forward facing side to avoid dealing with the engine and I will mount it using the steering rack bolts and radiator shroud. The air will be pulled from the engine bay through the cooler and dumped out the bottom of the undertray via a duct with a plastic gurney flap to encourage airflow if necessary. I need to get some extra line and a 205* thermostat yet.

While I was under the car, I found I have two leaks identified so far. One on the front end as pictured and another in the back that I believe is the dipstick O-ring. I'm REALLY hoping the front leak isn't the FMS that I didn't swap out on the oil pump..
Attached Thumbnails The forever project-oil-cooler-placement-1.jpg   The forever project-oil-cooler-placement-2.jpg   The forever project-oil-cooler-placement-3.jpg   The forever project-leak-1.jpg   The forever project-leak-2.jpg  

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Old 10-11-2018, 07:09 AM
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Fabbed up some prototype brackets to mount the 25row Setrab oil cooler. Due to space constraints it will lay flat and have the fittings facing forward and I will cut a hole in the undertray to evacuate heat - I may add a rubber flap to act as a gurney and draw more air through if necessary (unlikely). It's quite oversize for my application but that helps offset the big hit in efficiency from my positioning. Need to order a 205* tstat yet though, I still have a 180* heh.
Attached Thumbnails The forever project-oil-cooler-brackets.jpg   The forever project-oil-cooler-mockup-1.jpg   The forever project-oil-cooler-mockup-2.jpg  
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:36 AM
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3 hours at the dog park yesterday and she was still waiting on me for a walk before my work outside... This let me pull an all-nighter to get the cooler mounted and look into some of the leaking issues as well as get the house ready for rental inspection on Tuesday.

And here's the final mounting point for the cooler. I have a plan to duct the gap between the cooler and the undertray using four L shaped panels that attach to the tray from underneath and either butt up against or sit next to the cooler. I plan to add hood vents this winter so there will be significant up-flowing air through the engine bay and I expect this will cause some air under the undertray to bleed up through the duct through the cooler and up and out. Definitely a weird angle that will significantly kill flow but I can always add a pair of 4" spal fans down the line if need be. The cooler is still quite large so I don't expect this to be necessary.
Attached Thumbnails The forever project-saki-19wks.jpg   The forever project-oil-cooler-final-mounting.jpg   The forever project-oil-cooler-final-mounting-2.jpg  
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:38 AM
  #470  
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Knew I should have replaced this thing. What are the odds I can get the timing belt on and set without pulling the valve cover? I somehow doubt I can get the tensioner back on without pulling it and I just don;t wanna.
Attached Thumbnails The forever project-oil-pump-fms-leak.jpg  
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Old 10-14-2018, 11:53 PM
  #471  
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Old seal pulled, National seal installed using a FM installer tool. Timing is set, just need to put the front covers and valve cover back on.
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Old 10-15-2018, 06:16 AM
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Spent most of Sunday cleaning the house/garage in prep for the rental inspection but I managed to squeeze in a little Miata time. Engine is all back together, I need to replace the O-ring(s) on the dipstick.

Ordered a 205* Mocal tstat from TSE, while I was poking around I checked out 949racing's site and would you look at that, the street twin FW is available for purchase. Guess I'll be figuring out when to install that next Spring.. Ordered some AN8 hose and fittings as well as a bunch of line separators so I can route this mess back to the sandwich. I ordered two 90* male/male fittings because that sharp and crowded of a bend is probably going to suck with that size line.

Oh, and a local buddy and Miata specialist hooked me up with a seal puller and the FM front main installer. He's picking up a MSM that has ABS on it -- I am heavily considering picking up the whole assembly to swap into Red. Requires a lot of parts...
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