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Ordered another Crank Angle Sensor hoping I can axe this bucking between 2500-3000rpm issue. Goes away when I push load from Vac to boost, I have no idea what is causing it but have a few leads: CAS sensor, cam sensor (unlikely), wiring issue (used a trailer-style 4-barrel connector) or maybe a bad COP or TPS. Unsure what else it could be, hopefully this CAS fixes it. I really, really hate getting the base timing setting setup.
Here's a couple pictures of the installed Turbo Speed Sensor, I ended up using 7/16" drill bit, not the suggested 1/4" which was too small. I deburred the hole and fed in the sensor. The whole process took 20 minutes, 15 of which was finding the battery for the drill.
Sensor sits just back from the opening, make sure the turbines blades spin freely by hand before running your car!
The installed sensor, wont get used for a while but I didn't want to install a sensor on an installed (or dirty) turbo, so here she is!
I had pictures of the manifold and my twin disc but they're at home. I'll post more later~
Edit: Here's a hanging garden on a wall in a movie theater in Okinawa, Japan. Saw Star Wars there, in English because American Airbase.
Bought some Cruise Control bits and tried to install them last night, looks like I got NB bits instead of NA. The servo, gas pedal and brake sensor will all work but I need to source a CC computer and clockspring or stalk (may repurpose the one I have if I can wire it in) off an NA. Gonna splice the harnesses for the brake switch and dash switch so I can use the NB ones (trivial). Planning to install my replacement dash this weekend as well.
The bucking issue is still present, still not sure what is causing it. I'm buying a crank sensor, looking for a CAS to test and I also got a replacement for my 949 36-2 wheel. While tightening down the sensor bolt the engine spun over and the wrench contacted (just barely) the trigger wheel. May be nothing, but any little thing is suspect until proven otherwise.
Last ditch effort will be to swap out the engine harness to check for wiring issues.
Halfway through swapping the dash, got my current one out but not without casualties. That metal brace that the center console screws onto got mangled, I'm going to screw it down and try to mash it back into shape for reinstall later on. I think I'll be transferring my harness to the new dash. The one on there has been cut in a few places and I don't want to deal with that hot mess. Passenger kick light has to be transferred too, and I got an alarm I'll be repositioning if I can. Getting this thing in there in one piece is going to suck so hard though.
That bracket can easily be mangled back into shape - you are just trying to align the three screw holes to match up to the tombstone and to the center console. While re-installing the dash - take the shifter out in one piece. Makes for an easier time hefting the dash into place.
Miataki: Car's coming together. We'll have to set something up once I'm rolling again. ANTICIPATION!
In other news: Swain coating confirmed, I'll be shipping the manifold this week. I will prep the manifold and resbond the studs this evening. Gotta figure out where I put the twin disc clutch so I can get some pics of that too.
Dash VIN tag size is 1/8" dia, 1/8" depth. The head is bigger OEM but it's a special order rivet. I took before/after pics and sharpie'd mine and moved the harness over (old one was cut). Kick panel light sits loose in the new spot. Suggestions? Might use Gorilla tape to hold things in place. Zip ties to hold everything in place.
Spent the last two days pulling the heater core and thermostat/ects out of a 2002 Saturn SL1 with my GF. Car went from no heat + constant CEL to heat and no CEL. Not a bad buy for 1200 (123,500), though I did hear something suspiciously like light rod knock... Not looking forward to what that entails, though a rebuilt bottom end might not be a bad idea.
Cruise is installed and works surprisingly well. Survey says, absolutely worth it if you commute or are taking long drives/vacations.
Had the flanges machined square on the the manifold, ground down some of the surface imperfections and sent it off to Swain to get coated. Decided to do the downpipe as well when I get it. At $40 a foot sure hope it's worth it.
Pulled the trigger on some Maxxis VR-1 245/40r15 tires, such excite! Sold my used Rivals and a second set also used for 150, should cover a good bit of the cost. From the thread;
225/45-15 BFG Rival-S on the left...245/40-15 Maxxis VR1 on right. Unmounted.
May need to pull the fenders, we'll see. I've been without liners for a while and all four wheels have been rolled already. Now I'm looking for a set of 15x9 wheels
I've been informed I wont see the 245s for 2wks. I'll give them until the end of the month to get here or I'll switch back to Rivals. In the mean time I have a short list of things to finish;
-Replace 1 VMAXX shock (adjuster screw fell off)
-Pull SuperMiata damper and swap the timing gear out for replacement
-Investigate driveline for metal/metal clunks while turning over and 'playing card' sound under load that I suspect is exhaust leak
-Build footwell box shell from fiberglass*
*Researching the best materials/resin to invest in, not sure how much I want to invest in this..
Oh my. I have a shipping notice from Maxxis on my new tires. This rustles my jimmies muchly. I also have a set of Advanti Storm S1s at the local FedEx store waiting for pickup. Exciting times friends.
Confirmed buyers of enough old car parts to cover the whole upgrade with enough left over to cover some of the sub box build, very excite!
Thanks! I think it'd be a little more popular if I had more fabrication or something.
I pulled the SuperMiata damper off and swapped out the 36-2 wheel that was on there for the replacement from 949, this one is thinner with wider teeth and moves the missing teeth from 7:30 or 8oclock to 3oclock or so.
Why am I replacing this gear? Well, during install of the sensor I forgot to remove the wrench from the sensor bolt and when the engine turned over it rattled the wrench just right and grabbed maybe less than 1mm of material from half the thickness of the teeth (not the duration of the tooth, the thickness of the gear). Seemed to work fine as-is, but with my bucking issue I decided to just clear this as a potential cause. If this doesn't fix it it's on to the crank sensor, cam sensor or the wiring. I need a 99+ engine harness so I can steal the crank harness, I hate butchering the sensors because if I get a bad one it's not returnable..
Oh, and if there's one thing that sucks to no end it's getting my timing reference angle right. I had to do some math to get the current values to work and Jeremy was surprised it ran with them. Maybe it's related to the teeth on the gear being in a different place than the new gear?
Oh, and I picked up a set of Advanti Storm S1s in glorious 15x9, the Maxxis 245/40/15s will be here Monday, I ordered some 949 valves and hopefully they'll be here in time to get mounted Wednesday. We'll see!
Oh my. These things are meaty, and they're NOT very heavy at all, barely noticeable over the Rivals I sold. Oh, and I got this neat mug too; never actually gotten anything for buying tires before so this is actually pretty cool. I'll use it at work.
Man that's a lotta meat under there. I haven't pulled the fenders yet but I hammered the bumper tab up and curled it over so it doesn't eat the tires if I hit that. Other tabs are rolled up against the fenders, no liners. Little close to the VMaxx springs but no contact all around full lock-to-lock. Drive to work was uneventful, too much traffic. Little soft side-to-side but otherwise feel pretty good. No appreciable road noise though the windows were down. So far loving it! Autocross on the 30th, maybe the 1st too.
Yeah I agree, I'm running 40psi cold to get a feel for them. The Rivals had a similar feeling when taking hard turns though so it's not completely unwelcome. I'll definitely take a little clearance help though. If I can I really want to squeeze some sort of partial liner or something in the wells to block the rear section of the fender to stop the onslaught of stones I pickup in the alleyway. they really build up in the bottoms of the fenders fast.
OH! And good news!! I think I fixed the bucking issue with the new timing gear, I'll know for sure when I take it on another ride. I am still having some periodic misses which I have read can be remedied by moving the crank sensor closer (one was at .017")
ERMAGERD! I moved the crank sensor to .015" as suggested by others (FM suggested .035") and my misfiring issue is GONE! The car drives MUCH better, man what a relief. I can return this 80-something dollar replacement sensor.
Edit; Lowend still feels kinda sluggish, I think I'll review the timing and fueling compared to my old maps. I know the cams add some lethargy to the low-end torque but I'm not sure if it should be as significant as what I'm feeling.
03-10-2016, 08:30 PM
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