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If doing a single fogger, I'd put it as far from the TB, but before the IC, as possible to allow it to mix well and get even distribution between the cylinders. Also, do a wet shot unless you're gonna add fuel with your ECU.
Ebay nitrous kits used to be like 200-400 bucks depending on what you wanted. I'm sure you can do it for less than 540.
Was poking around in the engine bay and noticed the clutch res was low; found the slave boot was not seated fully and fluid weeping when holding the clutch in; I'll be replacing that tonight. Might bleed the brakes too if I have time, they've been pretty squishy lately.
Sold the last of my FM2 turbo bits. The buyer out in the LA area says he drives in the canyons on the regular so I expect things to be put to good use
In other news, trying to get ahold of the dyno to get a few AFTER pulls along with pulling 1* each out of the LSA, doing 2 pulls, and another 1* each to do another 2 pulls. I'd like to get some measurable data to go off rather than playing with the gears blindly. Hopefully I can keep things under an hour..
Playing around with cardboardgineering designing a splitter. Made a mockup with measurements, splitter sticks 4" out from the GV lip. I plan to feather it out to match the width of the spats. All measurements assuming +35 offset 15x9 and 245 tires.
I'll make a few out of plywood with measurements to make copying this easier I'd suggest anyone doing so to make at least 2 with one for the template. I want to put hinges on the front so when I bottom out it hinges up (supported with turnbuckles and wire) but it only hinges the front 4" then and I was having issues bottoming out the lip. I might not be able to street this until I move lol
Bored on a Friday afternoon I got top thinking... Has anyone tried getting a community group buy-in on wind tunnel time? Bear with me here. The A2WT in NC is 495/hr (min 2h with 30min hook/unhook time), which is a pretty great deal imho since it cuts the guess work out of aero mods and most tunnels are several thousand per hour and that's assuming you can even get in the door. I figure 2-3 gopros recording the tests from different angles would give great insights. They test the downforce too so it would let us know what each mod does in regards to drag and lift.
I was thinking something like 2-3hr time and a slew of mods folks lend and test everything piece by piece. Since its east coast maybe make it a MT event? Air dam, splitter, wing, canards, side deflectors, ride height and rake, etc. With top up and down, and a hardtop. Would love to test a fastback top especially in conjunction with a wing. Flat bottom and diffuser would be great, perhaps testing efficacy of cooling mods so the diff and transmission don't cook with a full length undertray?
Just an idea I was contemplating, figured a mostly stock shell would be the best candidate so the info applies to the most folks. We have a lot of textbook info about potential aero ideas that may or may not work but not as much real world.
Honestly you're probably not far off on that estimate. The place has requirements for any work that would leave debris can't be done in the tunnel so that would limit to a degree what could be done. Biggest timesinks would be any panels having to be swapped out from factory to whatever modded item you're using. I know folks like venting/cutting their fenders, this would be an excellent way to verify if that actually works or not. Another thing would be getting someone who really knows aero (like, professionally) involved so it's actually an effective use of the time. Maybe a kickstarter or something lol
I cut the splitter last night and attached the aluminum angle strips and it appears they aren't sufficient in that the sheet is warped quite noticeably. Might just be from the humidity so I've got it clamped down to set it straight and will toss a layer of glass over it and press it flat again overnight. If that doesn't work I'll upgrade to 3/8 or 1/2" and see where that sits. Debating epoxy or fiberglass to weatherproof and give it rigidity. I feel like glass would give it more wear life but might be more prone to light bend cracking.
So I finished a prototype of the splitter- current length is between 5.75" in the middle to 6.5" in front of the wheels. It's too flexible for my taste so I will probably cut a 3/8" sheet once I figure out the front. Stability over 80mph is rock solid, turning at speed is significantly less pushy.
In other news, I engineered a cardboard model of a shield I will be making. Hopefully it stops my MC/Clutch res's from cooking:
The drawn black rectangle above is where my VBand clamp sits. The slot above it and taped bend is for the shock tower and brake line by the frame rail. Markings for tabs to attach it and slot on top for the WGA arm to fit. Just need to work out the back side where the coolant lines are located. It's a hot mess back there with the coolant lines, dipstick, throttle cable and the manifold back there too...
I need to take the splitter off, too much -lift in front causing surprise oversteer. Going to make a undertray for now until I can get some rear aero worked out.
Fabbed up the undertray from 1/2" plywood, I'll fiberglass sometime this week, maybe Saturday. It attaches inside the bottom of the GV lip with some simple #12 bolts as well as with 2x 10mm x 30mm bolts that go into tabs near the steering rack (keep in mind I have an NB subframe+rack) and four screws I used in the back until I can get to the hardware store tomorrow. First thing I noticed is the engine is definitely muted somewhat which is OK because it quiets some of the valve train noise. The eccentric bolts are clearanced so alignments can be done without removing the tray and tires clear with 2" gap lock to lock both drooped and compressed. I'll figure out more flush-mounted hardware tomorrow, any idea where I can find countersunk washers? I suppose I could make a few but ehhh.
I will be working on figuring out how to seal the sides/front of the wheel wells and also trying to figure how I'll be doing brake duct inlets. I might use the GV inlets but I'm more tempted to remake the white panels in the first image and put a 3" hose flange on both sides where the red arrow is - not sure if it will fit there yet though.
Red arrow shows potential brake duct flange location.
Lip to Tray hardware not installed yet.
Mostly flat, bows up a little bit in back between the rack bolts and the back screws, maybe 3/8" up but nothing too serious.
Bolt attaches to NB rack mounts with tabs in symmetrical spots on either side. Standard 10mm bolt 30mm in length with a 1" washer underneath for a nice side contact spot.
Simple screws to get things attached for the moment and get a feel for things. Plenty of exhaust->undertray room (~2") but I'll be putting some heat shielding where it gets close after glassing.
I cut an oil drain hole and then fiberglassed the undertray yesterday (Wednesday morning). Cut the resin (poly) with acetone 1:1 for the top layer so the wood would absorb it and put coats on until it stopped soaking up the resin. I then laid a single layer of pre-cut cloth over it and set more resin on, sealing things in. After I covered it both sides with aluminum foil and pressed it between plywood sheets and at least 5-600 pounds of stuff so things cure straight. Tonight I peeled back the foil and some areas are still tacky while others are set hard. I left it wrapped in foil in the sun for a few hours flipping it after about 2 hours. I'm going to leave it stripped in the sun to see if that helps cure the tacky areas. Can I just paint more resin over those areas or paint it?
Other than the curing issue I'd say it's not too bad for my first attempt at working with the stuff though the coat definitely looks like **** so my technique could use work.. I'll post pics this evening.
I ordered that because most hood vents including the Singular ones will drop rain directly on my filter. Tonight I slapped it on and poured a big glass over the filter, nothing but water beating action. Pooled water did not absorb after 5 minutes. I feel comfortable adding vents now with this.
-Undertray cured after I put it in a room with a space heater and fans to cook it overnight. Resin hardened very well (temps got a hair over 100*f).
-Coated undertray with Rustoleum truck bedliner to give it a little toughness
-Installed 2x 3" brake duct flanges to the aluminum ducting I built previously for my IC/Radiator
-Routed ducts from flanges to the heat shields and ziptied in place. I ended up having to wrap several areas of brake ducting to prevent chafing damage. Will have to monitor this bit.
Hands are killing me from working the last few days, hope this stuff all stays put and isn't a huge PITA... I'm going to take it for a spin in a little while to see how the duct routing holds up.
Pics~
Flange attached to the existing Radiator/IC duct panel (passenger side) - Plastic material but seems really rigid. Less than $15 shipped for both.
Other side of passenger panel, used standard SS hardware, two washers and a nylock washer.
Taped up prior to running the hoses for now.
Intercooler and the opening left when I remove the panel...
Panel installed, not the ideal front-facing location but since it's part of the front mouth and I've sealed off nearly all outlets it should still be a high(er) pressure zone than the wheel well. Will test to verify in daylight.
Back at it, 2 days later: Got the hose hooked up, but not before I had to pull the damn panel back out to get the hose on the flange. The flange is the same diameter as the hoses inside wire support which meant it was not a simple task to attach. My hands were quite sore from just doing this bit.
Rough idea of how the driver's side was routed. I have a sleeve around where it goes around the charge pipe as well as one around the bumper support rod on both sides. This bit here sucked a lot.
Inlet, driver's side. Gotta reposition that license plate somewhere...
Found these on what appears to be a Chinese vendor website, someone mentioned taping their inlets off to reduce cooling and I got to googling. They metal ones I've installed work well enough for a furnace, wonder if that adjuster can be locked?
Not sure how effective those brake ducts are going to be given that they're 90* to the incoming air.
It will be a high pressure area so some air will enter and they can be improved by adding a funnel surround (similar to the funnels on ITBs):
07-18-2016, 02:29 PM
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I'd suggest anyone doing so to make at least 2 with one for the template. I want to put hinges on the front so when I bottom out it hinges up (supported with turnbuckles and wire) but it only hinges the front 4" then and I was having issues bottoming out the lip. I might not be able to street this until I move lol 
