Wait, should I give you the exocet instead of doing this? Or give you the body and keep the exocet?

 

lol WUUTT

so you're dropping a cat body onto an exo?

 

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I tell ya what, you choose. I'll take either one.</p>

 

he just wants your body

 

Got the exomotive suspension spacers installed today and as I suspected, I feel like the body gap is too much. I can't lower the body on the frame anymore, due to interference with the main tube in a few places.

Guess that means I need to order 17x9 6uls?

Will post pics of the body gap with my my 15x8's with 225/45s later.

 

Yep! He's been teasing me with these kind of pics for days now

What size tire would you run with the 17? I can bring my 225/45 on 15x9 up with me this weekend if you want to test fit?

Its glorious either way. Thread title delivers

 

Big

If you've got room, please do! There's tons of room under these fenders.

 

Thats with the spacers and the Xidas, correct? How much more adjustment do you have on ride height?

Also, how does someone with a 30" inseam get in and out of this thing now with the bodywork?

 

I think Google finally fixed the encoding as this works now for me!


Also Brainy fixed my YT link for me, thanks Brain!

 

Updated TODO list for the exocet exofish?

Must be done before M@MRLS (3.5 weeks):
- Fix/upgrade the front fuel tank mounts DONE
- Modify Exocet rollbar to fit with catfish body DONE
- Mounts for the side body panels - Mostly done
- Mirrors - On order
- Mount lights - On order from Bauer LTD
- Wire lights
- Install gauge cluster
- Hood and rear deck mounts Done enough for now
- Replace the drivers side seat slider connecting rod/cable thing Done
- Make and install tophat spacers DONE: ordered and installed exomotive ones
- Adjust ride height to be even DONE: it's still got about 1/4" positive rake, but if I go any lower the spring perch will hit at full droop. I need to put my gopro in the wheel well and go for a spirited drive to see if I can drop the perch any more. Raised the rear a bit to give it no rake.

If all above is done then do this before M@MRLS:
- Alignment/corner weighting
- Build and install a rear firewall
- Radiator ducting
- Modify catfish dash panel to fit
- Install EO2k's stolen torsen
- Body supports for the ingress/exit areas
- Some additional rear body supports
- complete the flat bottom out to the edge of the body

Would be nice to have someday:
- MR shifter
- Paint
- Side mount exhaust (looks a bit silly with the empty hole)
- Interior panels
- Build and install some kind of trunk space
- Replace stock fuel tank with fuel cell (make my own?)
- Install MegaSquirt
- Install wideband
- Purchase/install bigger injectors 1/2 DONE: ID725s purchased
- fuel pump
- Install GT2554R for all the boost before 3500 RPM and some of it after
- Make better brake line mounts
- Finish my NB

 

Brings a tear to my eye

 

How much lower can I go? To be specific, how close can the spring perch get to the UCA before it will hit?

It seems like they shouldn't move too much relative to each other but I figure one of you knows for sure

 

Modified exocet bar



Bar in the car








I still need to figure out what to do about the trunk panel. Not sure exactly where I'll cut it to allow for installation/removal.

 

What did you change? Mounted to the top of the rear suspension mount?

Also, can you split the deck lid behind the bar legs and still have access to stuff in the underside? Looking at it from that angle, you are absolutely right about the fuel cell.

This also occurred to me:

British American Transfer - Mocal Aero Fuel Caps

Fuel Caps | Rallynuts Ltd



How sexy is that?

There is also this vintage badassery:

British American Transfer - Aston & Monza Style Fuel Caps



but you know me and the vintage stuff

 

The support bars used to mount to the outside edge of the shock towers. This would have put the support bars going right through the hips of the body. So I cut them off at the main hoop, cut off the mounting feet, and moved their lower mounting location to the inside of the shock towers. This makes it so the support bars are just inside the edge of the side body panels so only the deck lid needs to be cut.

Maybe? I mean yes for sure, but I'm trying to figure out how to allow the bar to be removed still. So we'll see, I'm just holding off on cutting it at this point. Plenty of other things to do

Huuunnngg, I'll be ordering the black anodized version as soon as I confirm there's a flat 3" diameter spot on the deck lid.

Meh? I don't want anyone thinking that I'm building some janky cobra replica

 

Messed around with the dash panel some after dinner.



This was the best I could get it to fit. Better than nothing, but not amazing. It's seems like the steering wheel/column should be further inboard. But the wheel is already somewhat inboard of the center of the drivers seat. /Shrug

 

Tail lights installed and wired up.



Time to move on to the trunk lid.

Here we go!


Well that wasn't too scary...


And hours later, with very itchy fiberglass impregnated arms.

 

That came out really nice! I'm guessing the double bolt things are temporary just to keep it together?

 

Define temporary... It's basically impossible to get something between the rollbar legs that isn't split. Eventually I'd like to make the lid hinge at the left right split, but that likely won't happen until 2016

 

I can't believe how much better this thing looks with teh fish body