Geoff builds a silly 'car' in the few weeks before M@MRLS, every year!
#21
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I am excite!
Picking this up this coming weekend so I can give EO2k his motor back.
Hoping that I'll be able to get away with just a hone and new-rings. But if it comes to it the rods and pistons are worth it anyways.
Now I'll be even more tempted to turbo the exo. Too bad there's not really a good way to run ic piping short of a custom radiator
More updates when I get the block
...a built '99 block.
Belfab connecting rods
Supertech 10:1 84mm forged pistons, matched rings
MBSP and oilpan from 01+
Maybe some other stuff I'm forgetting.
All of these parts only have about a hundred miles on them.
The Total Seal oil control rings failed to seat properly, so there was massive amounts of blowby and the cylinder walls of the block wore to a mirror polish. We simply didnt have the energy to fix it after all the work that went into the build, so we swapped it out for a stock block.
I honestly have no idea how much to ask, but I figure the parts are worth something. Available for pick-up only, obviously.
Asking $350 OBO
Belfab connecting rods
Supertech 10:1 84mm forged pistons, matched rings
MBSP and oilpan from 01+
Maybe some other stuff I'm forgetting.
All of these parts only have about a hundred miles on them.
The Total Seal oil control rings failed to seat properly, so there was massive amounts of blowby and the cylinder walls of the block wore to a mirror polish. We simply didnt have the energy to fix it after all the work that went into the build, so we swapped it out for a stock block.
I honestly have no idea how much to ask, but I figure the parts are worth something. Available for pick-up only, obviously.
Asking $350 OBO
Now I'll be even more tempted to turbo the exo. Too bad there's not really a good way to run ic piping short of a custom radiator
More updates when I get the block
#24
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That car does not need a turbo, trust me. Its scary enough already. That being said, 10:1 should be safe enough at 5~6psi on CA91 from the GT2554R he has hiding in his garage. Not that he needs rods and supertechs for 5~6psi...
But yes, there is an E85 station about 6 blocks from his house
But yes, there is an E85 station about 6 blocks from his house
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Sure, why not? I mean, look at doppelganger. 14 psi on an FM2 kit on stock 10:1 NB2 internals. Both engines lasted like 80k miles each and he drives it hard. Nothing wrong with boost on 10:1. You'd make more power on pump with a lower CR but you'd do fine on 10:1. That being said...
...If there's an E85 station that close, why NOT run it? Also: your first statement is null and void. Yes it's much faster than your currently-non-turbo'd car. But some boost would NOT hurt! Tee hee...
This is a good plan too. But I thought the car was pretty damn fantastic otherwise.
That car does not need a turbo, trust me. Its scary enough already. That being said, 10:1 should be safe enough at 5~6psi on CA91 from the GT2554R he has hiding in his garage. Not that he needs rods and supertechs for 5~6psi...
But yes, there is an E85 station about 6 blocks from his house
But yes, there is an E85 station about 6 blocks from his house
This is a good plan too. But I thought the car was pretty damn fantastic otherwise.
#27
Sure, why not? I mean, look at doppelganger. 14 psi on an FM2 kit on stock 10:1 NB2 internals. Both engines lasted like 80k miles each and he drives it hard. Nothing wrong with boost on 10:1. You'd make more power on pump with a lower CR but you'd do fine on 10:1. That being said...
But sure, if you've got E85 easily available then it should work fine, and that's definitely one way to improve the boost response!
--Ian
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He didn't go through the effort and expense of building a motor. He bought the thing for $350.
If you're not shooting for 350whp that compression ratio is fine. Throw a small responsive turbo on it, tune for 260 whp, and poop your pants as you giggle around the racetrack.
If you're not shooting for 350whp that compression ratio is fine. Throw a small responsive turbo on it, tune for 260 whp, and poop your pants as you giggle around the racetrack.
#29
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Likely (slow) progression will be...
- 10:1 bottom end with stock head and ecu
- add ms3
- add e85 (and injectors and pump as nessecary)
And then if that's not enough (never is, is it?), I'll decide if I should go with a crazy NA build or just be lazy and stick my 2554 on.
The turbo is just so tempting as its sitting there on the shelf with everything I need (expect ecu and ic pipes).
- 10:1 bottom end with stock head and ecu
- add ms3
- add e85 (and injectors and pump as nessecary)
And then if that's not enough (never is, is it?), I'll decide if I should go with a crazy NA build or just be lazy and stick my 2554 on.
The turbo is just so tempting as its sitting there on the shelf with everything I need (expect ecu and ic pipes).
#30
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Also I just signed up for a track day at thunderhill on the 1st of Dec.
Things that MUST happen before then:
- Brakes: Holy crap the auto zone special pads that are on the car are bad! I ***** foot braked and let off before the crest at MRLS to keep them from burning. But do I just put some hp+ pads on and make sure the rotors arn't super worn? Or do I install the 11.75 BBK that is suppose to be going on my NB...
- Fenders: NCRC doesn't allow open wheel cars at their events. And while the fenders wouldn't actually do much in the case of contact with another car, they do make it a "closed" wheel car. Also they'll make it less likely that I'll get pulled over on the way to the track.
- Legitimate registration: I was worried driving to MRLS and back to my house that my questionable registration would get me in a lot of trouble if I got pulled over, but we barely got the car together before the event, so legitimate registration was out of the question. Now that I have some actual time I'll do it right and start jumping through the SPCNS hoops.
Things that MUST happen before then:
- Brakes: Holy crap the auto zone special pads that are on the car are bad! I ***** foot braked and let off before the crest at MRLS to keep them from burning. But do I just put some hp+ pads on and make sure the rotors arn't super worn? Or do I install the 11.75 BBK that is suppose to be going on my NB...
- Fenders: NCRC doesn't allow open wheel cars at their events. And while the fenders wouldn't actually do much in the case of contact with another car, they do make it a "closed" wheel car. Also they'll make it less likely that I'll get pulled over on the way to the track.
- Legitimate registration: I was worried driving to MRLS and back to my house that my questionable registration would get me in a lot of trouble if I got pulled over, but we barely got the car together before the event, so legitimate registration was out of the question. Now that I have some actual time I'll do it right and start jumping through the SPCNS hoops.
#31
Also I just signed up for a track day at thunderhill on the 1st of Dec.
Things that MUST happen before then:
- Brakes: Holy crap the auto zone special pads that are on the car are bad! I ***** foot braked and let off before the crest at MRLS to keep them from burning. But do I just put some hp+ pads on and make sure the rotors arn't super worn? Or do I install the 11.75 BBK that is suppose to be going on my NB...
- Fenders: NCRC doesn't allow open wheel cars at their events. And while the fenders wouldn't actually do much in the case of contact with another car, they do make it a "closed" wheel car. Also they'll make it less likely that I'll get pulled over on the way to the track.
- Legitimate registration: I was worried driving to MRLS and back to my house that my questionable registration would get me in a lot of trouble if I got pulled over, but we barely got the car together before the event, so legitimate registration was out of the question. Now that I have some actual time I'll do it right and start jumping through the SPCNS hoops.
Things that MUST happen before then:
- Brakes: Holy crap the auto zone special pads that are on the car are bad! I ***** foot braked and let off before the crest at MRLS to keep them from burning. But do I just put some hp+ pads on and make sure the rotors arn't super worn? Or do I install the 11.75 BBK that is suppose to be going on my NB...
- Fenders: NCRC doesn't allow open wheel cars at their events. And while the fenders wouldn't actually do much in the case of contact with another car, they do make it a "closed" wheel car. Also they'll make it less likely that I'll get pulled over on the way to the track.
- Legitimate registration: I was worried driving to MRLS and back to my house that my questionable registration would get me in a lot of trouble if I got pulled over, but we barely got the car together before the event, so legitimate registration was out of the question. Now that I have some actual time I'll do it right and start jumping through the SPCNS hoops.
Are there SB100 registrations left this year? As I understand it, there are only 500 per year, and in many years they're all used up on Jan 2. This was less true during the height of the recession, but...
You're a braver man than I, driving an Exocet to Thunderhill in December. Every time I've tried to go there in Dec it's rained buckets and buckets.
--Ian
#32
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Plus if it rains buckets we'll be slightly less fucked on this drought thing!
#33
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You should trade me the 11.75 + wilwood setup for the 11" + wilwood setup I have on my car right now. XP8s are already bedded If you do the 11.75s will the Konigs still fit?
Man, if you drive that thing to T-Hill and it rains you are going to die with those NT-01s. If I don't go, you are welcome to borrow my 15x9 & RS3 combo.
Man, if you drive that thing to T-Hill and it rains you are going to die with those NT-01s. If I don't go, you are welcome to borrow my 15x9 & RS3 combo.
#34
You should trade me the 11.75 + wilwood setup for the 11" + wilwood setup I have on my car right now. XP8s are already bedded If you do the 11.75s will the Konigs still fit?
Man, if you drive that thing to T-Hill and it rains you are going to die with those NT-01s. If I don't go, you are welcome to borrow my 15x9 & RS3 combo.
Man, if you drive that thing to T-Hill and it rains you are going to die with those NT-01s. If I don't go, you are welcome to borrow my 15x9 & RS3 combo.
--Ian
#35
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The problem with E85 out here is the lack of availability across the state. The closest E85 station to me is literally 1/2 a tank of E85 from my house, one way. I wish California would get its **** together and embrace the corn.
Oh well, I've got gas cans and a trailer, but I question my dedication.
Oh well, I've got gas cans and a trailer, but I question my dedication.
#37
The problem with E85 out here is the lack of availability across the state. The closest E85 station to me is literally 1/2 a tank of E85 from my house, one way. I wish California would get its **** together and embrace the corn.
Oh well, I've got gas cans and a trailer, but I question my dedication.
Oh well, I've got gas cans and a trailer, but I question my dedication.
However, the 76 station in Saratoga sells 100 octane unleaded. Given the milage hit on E85 and the relatively low number of miles the Miata gets per year, even at $9/gallon it's not all that expensive to mix it 50/50 with 91 and get 95, which let me run MBT on the old motor with the 2560. I'm giving up a bit of power from the greater oxygen-molar efficiency of the E85, but that's just a few percent.
The big killer for E85 for me, though, is that they don't sell it at race tracks. From looking at the various online station lists, the nearest E85 station to Laguna is in Gilroy and the nearest one to Thunderhill is in Sacramento! I'd need to haul a 55 gallon drum of it for a track weekend and I just don't want to read the hazmat regulations to find out if that's legal or not.
--Ian
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I have a FlexFuel sensor and an MS3 so an E85 tune is not completely out of the realm of possibility. I'm paying very close attention to Soviet and others who have implemented such things. I'd probably want bigger injectors, but my fuel system should otherwise be able to handle it no problem. I'm sure once Gesso pits an MS3 on his we can convince him to do the same
What Ian just said is right on. His post is exactly what in was trying to convey but i was trying to do so through 3/4 bottle of red wine. No E85 near the tracks in a killer. I want to say there is a VP 100 & 110 pump at Laguna so the mix deal isnt so bad. Not sure where to find 100 closer to Thunderhill though.
I was in AZ earlier this week and while I didn't see a lot of E85 there were Sunco 100 pumps all over the place. :(
#39
What Ian just said is right on. His post is exactly what in was trying to convey but i was trying to do so through 3/4 bottle of red wine. No E85 near the tracks in a killer. I want to say there is a VP 100 & 110 pump at Laguna so the mix deal isnt so bad. Not sure where to find 100 closer to Thunderhill though.
--Ian
#40
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Shopping list
Parts to buy:
- Head gasket $103
- ARP head studs $119
- Oil pan gasket $16
- Water pump $57
- Valve cover gasket $18
- Timing belt kit $128
- Wiseco XX rings $108
Tools to buy:
- 3 1/2" Flex Hone $35
- Bore mic or snap gauges $59
- The right stuff $28
Parts to steal off of EO2k's motor:
- Complete head with intake manifold and TB
- Balancer
- All sensors (except knock)
- Dip stick
- Water neck and block off plate
- Timing belt covers
- Spark plug wires
- Coils
- Alternator and mount
- Nuts and bolts and things
- Head gasket $103
- ARP head studs $119
- Oil pan gasket $16
- Water pump $57
- Valve cover gasket $18
- Timing belt kit $128
- Wiseco XX rings $108
Tools to buy:
- 3 1/2" Flex Hone $35
- Bore mic or snap gauges $59
- The right stuff $28
Parts to steal off of EO2k's motor:
- Complete head with intake manifold and TB
- Balancer
- All sensors (except knock)
- Dip stick
- Water neck and block off plate
- Timing belt covers
- Spark plug wires
- Coils
- Alternator and mount
- Nuts and bolts and things