I am officially a ricer. So ashamed.

I used this:



To do this:



Which terminates here:


I have no hopes and low expectations, but maybe this will force cooler air into the airbox and help lower IATs a bit. Also ordered 0.87" bulb seal to replace the 0.50" that is on the airbox now to hopefully seal the top better. There is a fresh air "duct" of sorts in NB2s, but there are plenty of opportunities for that air to go elsewhere, like right out the back, between the fender liner and undertray. Now pondering where to relocate the sensor. Yes. I'm majoring on the minors, while I wait for Blackstone's report.

In other news, I have been working on tuning cold starts, warm-up enrichment, idle enrichment, and idle VE. I think I have all those tables pretty close to where I want them now--or at least until colder weather arrives.

EDIT: This did nothing useful in bringing down IAT. It is coming out, next time I have that fender liner off.
.

 

Used oil report. I'll just leave this here. Bearings are fine. Ring wear happened before I bought the car. I'm gonna run 'er 'til she blows! Also, K&N filters suck.

 

Did yours melt, or does that report show evidence of poor air filtration?

 

High silicon indicates sand, which indicates poor filtration. Silicon was 4 with the OE airbox and jumped to 24 with the K&N. Up to 13 is considered normal.

 

Thanks!

 

Key takeaways from the report are:

1. No elevated levels of bearing metals means bearings are healthy
2. Aluminum is explained by the fact that I installed an oil cooler with a lot of aluminum parts without changing the oil
3. Iron is within range, which means rings and block are not still wearing abnormally
4. Viscosity is good, which means I did not run it too long or overheat it too much
5. Low fuel in the oil, so blow-by is good
6. No glycol in the oil means head gasket is in good shape
7. K&N filters suck

Useful linky:

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php

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I would imagine it's difficult to do better than a paper/fiber type OEM element.

 

New problem: evaporative system is saturated with fuel and leaking out the right rear, creating quite a mess and a lovely stench.

Back story: gas pump did not shut off and grossly overfilled tank. The needle did not move off full for a LONG time after that. Drove the car until the gas light came on. Gas pump now wants to shut off immediately, and fuel can only be trickled in. Gas mileage is now horrible. It appears the saturated charcoal canister and filter have created a primed siphon pump that sucks gas out of the tank and spews it into the right rear suspension area.

Question: will replacing the charcoal canister, filter, and sensor solve this problem, or should I take the time to strip down the interior and have a look at all the stuff up top? This stuff is EXPENSIVE at ~$400 for all of it, and I would hate to saturate (ruin) it again due to some other problem. Google has not been much help.

 

Do you have a megasquirt in there right now, or is it the stock ECU?

--Ian

 

Megasquirt has been in for a few months now. I do remember having an intermittent evap system code several months ago, but I blamed it on the gas cap.

 

So the stock ECU has 3 different valves and a couple sensors that it reads to manage the evap system. The megasquirt does none of this, it just leaves the system in the default mode where it sort of mostly works. If you check the FSM, it specifies a few diagnostic procedures for the valves -- the TPCV has some specific relative pressures at which it's supposed to be open/closed when unpowered, for example). I'm not 100% sure of the full details of how the stock ECU manages things, but it's conceivable that if hooked back up it might manage to fix it without expensive parts.

(I'm assuming you drained any liquid fuel out of the canister and it's still siphoning, right?)

--Ian

 

Duplicate post, sorry.

 

Hmmm... This Megasquirt thingy may be more trouble than it is worth N/A. If I put the factory ECU back in, I'm going to do some pulls for power curve comparison to see if maybe it should stay in.

The charcoal in the canister and filter are basically destroyed by liquid fuel, in that they will no longer perform their intended function. That is mostly OK for a track car, but there will always be a fuel smell in my garage, unless I spend the money to replace them. And, since I have 2 gas water heaters in there with the car...

I saw the test procedures for the valves and performed the electrical tests, which they passed. I do not have a pressure testing rig and don't really want to make one. The part is $20, so I'm just going to replace it, while I am in there.

The moral of the story is probably to guesstimate how much gas should go in the tank, and fill it to a gallon or two less than that, rather than relying on any gas pump to shut off accurately.

 

Replace with used parts from a wrecker. Chances are they are just as good as new (or, at least, functional) and will cost almost nothing.

 

I have no idea if they are the same or can be retrofitted, but I have my evap stuff from my 95 I'd give you for the cost of shipping. I have the charcoal canister for sure.

 

Yeah. Obviously a good track, but most of the wreckers in my area are pretty picked over. I'm also in a hurry, because I have a track day Saturday.

How kind of you to offer. Thanks for that. I went ahead and shopped around and bought new to have it here by tomorrow, so I can get the car ready for Saturday. I know I won't be trusting a gas pump to shut off again as long as the Megasquirt is installed again.

 

Why not just remove all that garbage? Weight savings bro. Race car.

 

I still have to pass emissions every September. I stupidly bought a car that is too new.

I suppose I could just hook up all the hoses with Colipto couplers and see what happens...

 

**** yeah colipto couplers!

 

SNORE.

BORED.