^ And THAT is exactly what I needed to sort this EGO correction stuff out. I studied PID control in college, you know, 25 years ago, and have unfortunately forgotten most of it. I tried several combinations in my testing, but nothing that looks like your profile. Your settings work very well at cruise and idle. THANK YOU!!!

Really, the only 2 things to work out at this point are pretty minor.

1. Starts are quite slow, compared to the OE ECU. Part of that might be the MS holding VTCS (soon to be replaced with VICS) open at all times. Otherwise, I have tried various combinations of priming pulse and cranking pulse with little improvement. Need to look at this more, but it has not been a high priority, because it does start. It just takes 5 or 6 revolutions, instead of 1 or 2.

2. Idle still oscillates between 120F and 140F CLT, which is really weird, considering I have it entering closed loop idle much earlier than before, and everything should be quite happy in this range. I recorded a data log from a cold start to about 165F, while the car sat and idled. I was going to analyze it, but I was struck down by a Man Cold and have not left the Sick Cave, so I have not had a chance to look at it. It obviously has to be fuel, air, spark, or timing. I'll try to look at it today, between naps. Anyway, I have attached that log and the tune that made it.

 

I don't have any updates about the car. I've just been driving the hell out of it, and it has been taking it like an abused woman who stays with her man. I am rewarding her loyalty by building a new home for her and a few of her friends.






I get an air conditioned 4 car garage with a lift. In exchange, the wifey gets to do anything she wants with the rest of the house plus a pool. Fair trade, no?

 

FUUUUUAAAAARRRKKK THAT'S AWESOME!

 

Yes, that would be a fair trade!

 

It interests me how modern homes have moved away from trusses, and back to stick-built rafters. I suppose it is all the fancy roof-lines.

Nice looking place, nice trade. Thing is, she was going to get her part regardless, so you were able to negotiate the 4-car + lift from a position of zero power.

Maybe you should be a US diplomat.

 

The Car-Fu here in the trade-off is, "you can do whatever you want with the rest of the house, as long as I get my garage." If you read into that, you realize that, when she asks about paint colors, or granite, or tile, or flooring, I get to just shrug and say, "whatever you want, Honey!" I have to make zero decisions from here on out. It's all on her. Ninja level 10,000.

Most homes in Texas are stick built. It isn't efficient, but it is the norm.

Anyway, you can see where all my F/I money has gone. N/A for at least another year.

 

Wow! That's a lot of copper. Wait. Is that an air conditioning return in the garage?




Why yes. Yes it is. Four AC vents and 2 big *** ceiling fans in a fully insulated garage should make this the coolest car storage place in town. Storage, because I can't actually afford to work on anything anymore after all this. Maybe my Car-Fu strategery is not so good.



Today, I talked the electrician's helpers into adding 4 more light fixtures in the garage, so my lumens should be approaching those of the surface of the sun. But... One of them told me about a garage they had recently wired with 6 side-firing cans along the bottom of each wall to light up the under-carriage and wheel wells, when the cars were on jack stands. I can't really afford that, but I'm super jelly!

Hanging out with the electrical crew this morning amounted to Christmas in May. I got all kinds of free goodies. It's amazing what a couple cases of beer, a cheap cooler, and a few bags of ice can buy!

 

Finished insulating the garage (ceiling not finished in photos, but it was done):







Then drywall, floating, taping, floating, sanding, floating, sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding, and texture. Ready for paint!










Insulated garage doors go in this week. It'll be a cool 75* in there, and I won't be able to afford to do anything. Oh well. At least it will have a TV and a sofa and a fridge...

 

Getting there...



That's my trubo money on the left...


BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! 105* outside and 72* in the garage. It only took 30 minutes to cool down.


Shop sink not installed yet, but at least it is there. The fridge will go to the left of it for ice, filtered water, and b33r. Lots and lots of b33r...



House is amost done. We have our first walk-through Monday morning. Still to be done is a lot of cleaning, paint touch-up, gutters, and epoxy on the garage floor. Hope to be moved in around September 1st.

So... 4 post lift, 2 post lift, or Quick Jack?

In other news, I figured out my lumpy idle and have the car starting better when cold. My first project in the new house, after getting the car inspected, is to install the VICS IM to see if I can gain any more N/A ponies and see if I can fool the OE ECU into thinking it is a VTCS.
.

 

Can you fit a 2 post lift with that ceiling height? You typically need about 12ft, although there are a few as low as about 10ft.

 

Yeah, I don't think a full-sized 2-post is going to fit below the ceiling. A Max Jaxx should, though.

--Ian

 

There are low profile 2 post lifts that will fit under a 9' ceiling. The downside is most don't have the top beam, which means they need to be adjusted for plumb frequently. Here is one that does have a top beam, although the lift height is necessarily low because of it. Still high enough for everything I do, however, and with the top down..

The garage was supposed to have a 10' plate line, but the builder screwed that up, and it's not something you can go back and fix, obviously.

 

I don't see much advantage to that low-rise 2-post over a Max Jax?

--Ian

 

I haven't seriously started shopping yet, so I'm not married to any one solution. This purchase is several months away (if ever) at the earliest. I have plenty of other demands on my wallet ATM.

The main advantage of the BendPak GrandPrix I see is the fact that it is self-contained and does not need frequent adjustment. The Max Jax has external hydraulics and no top beam, which means keeping an eye on it, but is $1000 cheaper.

Anyway, not serious about this yet. A workbench or 2, shelving, cabinets, lights, etc. all come first.

 

I have a Bendpak 4 post in my small 3 car garage and I'm perfectly content with it. Obviously suspension isn't the easiest, but for everything else it fits the bill. Runways are wide enough apart I can drop the transmission through it without issue.

 

It would appear I just moved to a county that does not have emissions testing. The inspector just checked all my light bulbs and called it good yesterday. This means I can trubo with wild abandon!

Of course I would need $$ for that, and I spent it all on the Garagemahal instead of F/I for the SuperTramp. Maybe I'll just try to find a square top for now for a few extra ponies. Anyone have one for sale?

Speaking of the Garagemahal, progress has been made. I will try to remember to post pics.

First track day of the fall this Saturday. Shaking the rust off should be fun.

 

Yossi in the classifieds has one for sale. I just bought one from him.

 

I will be at Miatas at Hallett this year. Also, the Discount Tire dude told me I got the last set of these in the country. I will be there on fresh rubber. 1:32 is the goal. I hit that in an ailing E46 on old rubber last year. Let's see if I can do it in the still N/A Miata.

 

Loaded up and ready for MaH. Rolling out around 10AM tomorrow morning.

 

This thread needs a less lame title, because I finally haz trubo. Just in time to have water temp problems at Miatas at Hallett this coming weekend.





I installed an FM kit about a month ago, went to Europe for 2 weeks, street tuned it when I returned using the Trubo Kitty base tables for IT, AFR, and VE. I currently have the wastegate adjusted to 6psi. I think it goes as high as 9. This is on stock injectors and fuel pump maxing at 80% duty cycle. (I forced it a little richer in the upper bands after seeing the AFR graphed.)




My current approach to cooling is to keep running the Koyo V series radiator with the oil cooler relocated to the back side of the radiator to make room for the intercooler. I also made some custom ducting using ABS sheets to help control airflow. In street use, this is all perfectly fine. I tested it on a 100F day by hooning around the back roads where I live and never saw the water temp exceed 203F. Max temp of 212F was reached when I simulated track driving in a straight line to bed in new brakes: full throttle, brake hard, full throttle, brake hard, repeat. Hallett temps are supposed to peak in the 70s this weekend, so maybe I can keep it under 220F without having to drive too lame?



Oil cooler:




Anyhoo, that's most of the update. 60 whorespowers just like that.